I would keep that filter to protect your pump from crud.
generic fuel pump-factory pump
i just ordered a new rebuilt pump from msa. i had a generic pump in there.
it has been acting all crazy. like making funny noises.. it seems like it sucking air or something. and the car runs poorly. runs but has no nuts.
here is the scenerio
i have an inline filter before the pump.. then no damper after the pump(have one coming from ebay) the inline filter is not filling totally with fuel.. its like its sucking air or something.
my tank is full of gas.. so no inlet lines can be sucking in air.
can i expect an improvement with the new pump.. and should i get rid of the inline filter now that my tank is nice and clean and sealed?
oh.. and i just broke my pump relay and msa doesnt have them anymore...so now its time to break out the soldering iron..
what do you think of all this?
it has been acting all crazy. like making funny noises.. it seems like it sucking air or something. and the car runs poorly. runs but has no nuts.
here is the scenerio
i have an inline filter before the pump.. then no damper after the pump(have one coming from ebay) the inline filter is not filling totally with fuel.. its like its sucking air or something.
my tank is full of gas.. so no inlet lines can be sucking in air.
can i expect an improvement with the new pump.. and should i get rid of the inline filter now that my tank is nice and clean and sealed?
oh.. and i just broke my pump relay and msa doesnt have them anymore...so now its time to break out the soldering iron..
what do you think of all this?
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the guy at msa said that it may be causing the problem..
i have a real long line after the tank to the pump.. and it contains the filter.
im thinking it may be to long and fat and with the generic pump who is weak in the way of pumping.. thats its too long of a hall. .like when you si fen(i dont know how to spell it) gas.. you dont want to use too long of a hose cause it will be harder to keep it going.
i think ill try it without the filter and see what happens. if it improves i know whats up.
i have a real long line after the tank to the pump.. and it contains the filter.
im thinking it may be to long and fat and with the generic pump who is weak in the way of pumping.. thats its too long of a hall. .like when you si fen(i dont know how to spell it) gas.. you dont want to use too long of a hose cause it will be harder to keep it going.
i think ill try it without the filter and see what happens. if it improves i know whats up.
Well I assumed it wasn't a clogged peice of sh&t. MSA isn't the greatest place to get your info neither, ask Bubbles and his cam dilemma. It's your car and money my friend.
well i figured its better to have a real nissan pump in the car..and besides i think i may have messed the pump up when i ran it with a ton of rust going through it. and if its still ok there is always ebay for the old pump.
It would help if you tell us what year car you're talking about, although I think we're all safe in assuming it's a fuelie 280Z or ZX.
If you had a "ton of crud" running in the old generic pump, then leave the inline filter in. Obviously, the tank has sat at some point and accumulated rust, so unless you plan on dropping it and having it professionally cleaned and/or coated, you're always going to have more crud than you would if the tank had been in constant use. Also, typically, those inline filters do not fill up with fuel. They always have some "air" in them. It WILL kill a pump to get substantial crud in it.
It is always best to run OEM Nissan components. You should see a dramatic improvement in the way the car runs with the right pump.
I would also not second guess the original plumbing (except for the inline filter). I don't see any reason why you would run "a real long line from the tank to the pump". Restore all that stuff to original and use the brackets under there to support the hose. That's not something you want flopping around and chafing through.
If you had a "ton of crud" running in the old generic pump, then leave the inline filter in. Obviously, the tank has sat at some point and accumulated rust, so unless you plan on dropping it and having it professionally cleaned and/or coated, you're always going to have more crud than you would if the tank had been in constant use. Also, typically, those inline filters do not fill up with fuel. They always have some "air" in them. It WILL kill a pump to get substantial crud in it.
It is always best to run OEM Nissan components. You should see a dramatic improvement in the way the car runs with the right pump.
I would also not second guess the original plumbing (except for the inline filter). I don't see any reason why you would run "a real long line from the tank to the pump". Restore all that stuff to original and use the brackets under there to support the hose. That's not something you want flopping around and chafing through.
very good post JR. yes it is a 280z-78. the tank is now cleaned and sealed.. so thats good.. but i bypassed all the steel lines untill after the pump. so stuff was temporarily hanging around.. the car has not hit the road yet. so i have a proper set up coming.. bracket and damper.
my one question is how and why is there air in the inline filter.. it seems to make my generic pump make a weird noise. would that stop if there was a damper after the pump(again-coming in the mail shortly-never had one...but car was not on the road without it)
to me it seems that the aftermarket 80 dollar fuel pump isnt cutting it. when i test it out. it didnt seem to have a whole lot of sucking power.
i dont know if it needs to have alot.
my one question is how and why is there air in the inline filter.. it seems to make my generic pump make a weird noise. would that stop if there was a damper after the pump(again-coming in the mail shortly-never had one...but car was not on the road without it)
to me it seems that the aftermarket 80 dollar fuel pump isnt cutting it. when i test it out. it didnt seem to have a whole lot of sucking power.
i dont know if it needs to have alot.
hows this sig.
Not sure what you mean by "test it out". Are you plugging it into a battery and putting your finger over the inlet or something? If so, you should probably not do that, as the way these pumps are built, they are cooled (if not partially lubed) by the fuel going through them and are not built to run dry. (Also interestingly, the fuel runs right by the sparky armature, but doesn't ignite because there's no air in the sealed pump.)
The only way you can really test these pumps (that I'm aware of) is to hook them up and put a fuel pressure guage inline between the pump and engine. Lots of info on how and where to do that in archives, as well as proper pressures at idle and off-idle. Access the archives by clicking "search" at top of this page and typing in "fuel pump" or "fuel pressure".
You should definitely run a damper on the pump.
Also, if the tank is cleaned and sealed, I personally would not run an inline filter before the pump (just one more thing to worry about leaking). But that's up to you.
The only way you can really test these pumps (that I'm aware of) is to hook them up and put a fuel pressure guage inline between the pump and engine. Lots of info on how and where to do that in archives, as well as proper pressures at idle and off-idle. Access the archives by clicking "search" at top of this page and typing in "fuel pump" or "fuel pressure".
You should definitely run a damper on the pump.
Also, if the tank is cleaned and sealed, I personally would not run an inline filter before the pump (just one more thing to worry about leaking). But that's up to you.
I had a generic pump in there too and it left me sitting on the side of the interstate as I got off the exit. Thankfully, I was near the parts store I had bought it from. They had a Beck Arnley replacement pump - I was able to get them to trade me out. No problems since - it is a reman factory pump....knock on wood.
Factory pump rules.
81zxturbo
95slobaru
81zxturbo
95slobaru
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