You can use any brand name bearing ie timkin etal. (I think Timkin was OEM) A bearing house can match the old one by number or by taking a measurement. The bearing house will also be less expensive than a parts store. Change the race with the bearing. Use a punch to remove the old race. Use wood to install the new race. Go to the store & look at a new bearing so you have a better idea of what they are supposed to be like. Also, you need to "pack" grease into the new bearing, not simply smear grease on the outside. Put a dab of grease in the palm of your hand. Press the bearing into the grease forcing grease into the bearing. Continue until grease is in all of the bearings. Google for more clear instructions.
Front Wheel Bearing Questions
I was changing my brake rotors on my 74 260z and used the FSM to perform the wheel bearing adjustments. The left side seems to be fine, using a spring balance/scale measured just over 1lb after backing off the bearing nut 60 degrees. However on the right side, I'm having problems. First off, after the initial torque on the wheel bearing nut, I backed off 60 degrees, moved the hub around, and went to re-torque. It took way more than 60 degrees to re-torque, about 1.5 rotations. I repeated and again more than 60 degrees to re-torque. When the re-torque was finally around 60 degrees, I backed off the 60 degrees and used the spring balance. It measured about 12lbs. If I back off the bearing nut enough to reduce spring balance measurement to 2lbs, the hub is loose. My guess is that I need to replace the bearings and race. Right?
I also have a few more questions:
-Looking at the front inner bearing, there is a bit of play (say a few millimeters) between the outer ring of the bearing and the inner ring. It's like I can start to pull the outer ring and rollers slightly away from the inner ring. Is this normal?
-Also, I noticed on Blue's tech tip the inner surface of the race is smooth and the one he removed showed wear. Looking my race, I have lines or grooves about 5mm apart evenly around the inner surface. May be a dumb question but is this normal or should the race inner surface be smooth?
-Does the race come with the inner bearing or do I need to buy it separately?
-Lastly, is MSA's bearings any better than those at Kragen or NAPA?
Thank you very much for the help
I also have a few more questions:
-Looking at the front inner bearing, there is a bit of play (say a few millimeters) between the outer ring of the bearing and the inner ring. It's like I can start to pull the outer ring and rollers slightly away from the inner ring. Is this normal?
-Also, I noticed on Blue's tech tip the inner surface of the race is smooth and the one he removed showed wear. Looking my race, I have lines or grooves about 5mm apart evenly around the inner surface. May be a dumb question but is this normal or should the race inner surface be smooth?
-Does the race come with the inner bearing or do I need to buy it separately?
-Lastly, is MSA's bearings any better than those at Kragen or NAPA?
Thank you very much for the help
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1. Clean bearings' surfaces are a must. I would even clean the new ones before repacking. Clean the bearings, hubs & races until U know they are clean and then clean them again. Hold the clean bearings inside a small plastic baggie w/ one hand and then use your other hand to pack them w/ grease. This method allows U to put the clean bearings aside w/o getting dirt on them.
2. All bearings these days are the same no matter who U get them from. No major bearing company is NOT multi-country and all of them source their product from whoever is cheapest. Not so good, but that's life these days. NO bearing company can tell U where their stuff will be from, no matter what the packaging says. OE bearings are no prize either.
3. Use new seals. Just tap them into place.
4. Synth. grease is good, but not essential.
5. Flush the brake fluid while you have the car up.
2. All bearings these days are the same no matter who U get them from. No major bearing company is NOT multi-country and all of them source their product from whoever is cheapest. Not so good, but that's life these days. NO bearing company can tell U where their stuff will be from, no matter what the packaging says. OE bearings are no prize either.
3. Use new seals. Just tap them into place.
4. Synth. grease is good, but not essential.
5. Flush the brake fluid while you have the car up.
Yes. Even Timken has gone "Tim-Chin!" Norm K.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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