I was hoping that there was some trick or something besides putting it in evenly.
That is what I did on the first seal and it is leaking.
I would like to know a good way to tighten the front pully nut to the 100foot pounds it needs to be.
I was only able to get it to 85-90 I would get too much take up in the drive train when doing this and was concerned about breaking something like the rear end,
I've taken my pulley off so many times I can't remember exactly how I torque it to 100 lbs or more. I either jammed a screwdriver in the cam sproket to prevent the engine from turning over or put an adjustable wrench on the cam (not the lobes, my aftermarket cam has places to put a wrench). I don't think the cam idea was the best because all that torque would be against the aluminum head. Come to think of it, I think I did use a screwdriver in the sproket, a piece of wood under the rear tires, and someone in the car holding down the brake. I admit, its not easy, but if I remember the torque is applied in stages it seems, as the crank bolt will tighten then turn the enigne, tighten more, turn the engine more....
Be careful to get the pulley exacly lined up with the locator pin on the crankshaft too. If its off or if you damage the pulley taking it off, the pulley can break. The first time I did this I thought my front seal was leaking. Turns out the pulley was cracked around the part that slips on the crank. UGH!!! That's happened to me about three times. So, just be careful. Unexpected trips to the junkyard at 4:30 in the afternoon are not fun!!
> Can anyone give me any tips on replacing a
> front seal?
> I replaced it when putting the motor in and
> it is leaking , I followed the Haynen book
> but there is not too much about it .
I have done this once about 5000 miles ago. To get the proper torque I slipped a extender bar through one of my u-joints. When it contacted the floor that sucker wasn't going anywhere. You have to torque the crank nut properly you get never ending problems.