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Hi all. I'm approaching the dreaded floor pan replacement on my 73 Z. The good new is the trans tunnel and the rockers appear to be pretty solid so I should have something to weld to. I may need to add some metal at the transition point up front near the firewall. I have a few questions for those of you who have done this:

1. Is it better to have the car sitting on the wheels or propped up on jack stands? If on jack stands, it there a particular spot to place the jack stands or just anywhere solid ( eg: suspension, differential, etc).
2. Which way is easier to install them: down from the top or up from the bottom? If coming up from the bottom, is it possible to leave the front seat mount in place at the trans tunnel and rocker. I figure if this is possible it would act as bracing and eliminate cutting it out and re welding it back in.
3. For some reason my car does not have the frame rails that run under the floor pans from front to back. My guess is that maybe someone removed them and tried to patch the holes (big holes) in the floor pans. My floor pan kit includes the rails and I intend to install them. I know where they start at the front because a portion of the rail is still there. What I don't know is where are they suppose to terminate at the back. I'm thinking at the cross rail right behind the rear seat mounts???? (yes/no?)
Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Z3beemer (Paul)
 

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This ought to help: http://zhome.com/Classic/240ZFloorboards/ChrisFloorboards2.htm

He left the seat mounts in place and put the pan in from underneath. I put mine in from the top with a lot of overlap, which allowed me to weld above and underneath. If you take out the seat mounts, make a cardboard template for the holes so that every lines up when you put it back together. I used a lot of self-tapping screws to hold the new pan in place, then welded the holes closed. I also welded patches over the factory drain holes because I didn't want to depend on rubber plugs to keep out any water. When you're done, be extra-generous with seam sealer - I used a bondo spreader and covered everything.

As far as jack stands are concerned, raise the car as high as possible because you'll be under it more than once. Mine was just a shell so I used a roll-over jig to tilt it onto one side which made things much easier. I also added Bad Dog frame rails which provide a lot of rigidity.

Measure twice and cut once. Using cardboard for a pattern is a lot cheaper than having to buy another pan if you screw up the first one.
 
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