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Discussion Starter #1
Here was the problme....when I exposed the steering column I noticed that the plug comming out of the clicker was toasted in the area where the green wires connected....i jiggled the plug an walla...lights! So i cliped the two wires and sawdered(sp?) them together...Lights work perfectly again! I love my Z!
Thanks everyone for the help!
-Travis 77z
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Trav - I don't think that you solved the problem permanently, you just extended the time to deal with it again.

Tell me more about this green wire. Is it the one that sits on top of the steering column? the green wire is to the left-front when facing the dash? If that's it, I am having the same exact problem, I am going to take my switch apart tonite and see if there is corrosion or something preventing good contact. The wire is so incredibly hot that I have a burn blister on the tip of my finger where I touched it! That's not right! When I jiggle or just touch the wire my dash lights come back on and if I jiggle the switch I can hear buzzing/short-like sounds from inside where the green wire is located.

As soon as I figure it out I'll let you know.

Steve G 78VR

> Here was the problme....when I exposed the
> steering column I noticed that the plug
> comming out of the clicker was
> toasted in the area where the green wires
> connected....i jiggled the plug an
> walla...lights! So i cliped the two wires
> and sawdered(sp?) them together...Lights
> work perfectly again! I love my Z!
> Thanks everyone for the help!
> -Travis 77z
 

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Hey guys, it sounds like both of you ar suffering from a dead short and if you don't properly adress the prob. you could end up with a crispy criter. I would sugest getting a copy of the Haynes manual if you don't have one yet (better than chiltons) it has a pretty good wiring diagram for Z's. Next sit down and trace the burnt or hot wires, some were in this wire you will find a DEAD short. Look for exposed wire and arc marks on metal. This is time consuming but if you luv your Z you will want to do the best thing for it. If you suspect a switch you can run a jumper around the switch to see if the suspect wire still gets hot. If it does get hot you still have a short in that wire. If not then replace the switch.

Good luck and remeber Patients Grasshopper.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
> Hey guys, it sounds like both of you ar
> suffering from a dead short and if you don't
> properly adress the prob. you could end up
> with a crispy criter. I would sugest getting
> a copy of the Haynes manual if you don't
> have one yet (better than chiltons) it has a
> pretty good wiring diagram for Z's. Next sit
> down and trace the burnt or hot wires, some
> were in this wire you will find a DEAD
> short. Look for exposed wire and arc marks
> on metal. This is time consuming but if you
> luv your Z you will want to do the best
> thing for it. If you suspect a switch you
> can run a jumper around the switch to see if
> the suspect wire still gets hot. If it does
> get hot you still have a short in that wire.
> If not then replace the switch.

> Good luck and remeber Patients Grasshopper.

-the green wire i was refering to is located under the steering column that goes to the big plastic plug with all the other wires. After direct sawdering the wires they do not become hot at all. IMO the plastic plug is a POS and it was causing the short based on the corosion built up inside of it. My lights work great now. I have a hanes manuel but the wiring diragrams I do not understand very well. (the electrical system is my least favorite part of my Z)
Thanks for the help-Travis 77z
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am happy to report that I fixed my problem as well. I took the switch apart to have a look at how it functioned.

CAUSE: switch had arcing carbonization on the points. This buildup was preventing good electrical path. The electricity that was getting through was going through that highly resistive carbon buildup. Causing the heat. Also making lights flicker and not work.

SOLUTION: I sanded the contacts till they were clean again and put the switch back together.

You need to take the steering column plastic cover off. Unplug the harness. 2 screws holds the entire switch assembly, both on left side. Best to do this on a workbench so you don't lose small parts. 3 small screws holds square metal switch with 4 wires on top (including green wire). 4 metal tabs holds wire assebmbly to that metal box.

happy hunting

Steve Graber

> -the green wire i was refering to is located
> under the steering column that goes to the
> big plastic plug with all the other wires.
> After direct sawdering the wires they do not
> become hot at all. IMO the plastic plug is a
> POS and it was causing the short based on
> the corosion built up inside of it. My
> lights work great now. I have a hanes manuel
> but the wiring diragrams I do not understand
> very well. (the electrical system is my
> least favorite part of my Z)
> Thanks for the help-Travis 77z
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unfortunately there were several wires leading to my switch that weren't going through a harness.. so taking the whole thing to a workbench wasn't an option (at least not an easy one) It can be done inside the car if you're careful.

I also re-soldered all the wires leading to the headlight switch because they were coming loose. The turn signal switch couldn't be taken apart completely, but pulling it out and spraying contact cleaner inside got all my signals working.

Fun stuff! Now if I can just get my backup warning lights to work.. (waiting on a part)

> SOLUTION: I sanded the contacts till they
> were clean again and put the switch back
> together.

> You need to take the steering column plastic
> cover off. Unplug the harness. 2 screws
> holds the entire switch assembly, both on
> left side. Best to do this on a workbench so
> you don't lose small parts. 3 small screws
> holds square metal switch with 4 wires on
> top (including green wire). 4 metal tabs
> holds wire assebmbly to that metal box.
 
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