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Discussion Starter #1
I posted before about 77 not starting after I put new plugs and wires, cleaned cap a nd rotor. Ran before; won't now, just idled sorta rough. Now; Got fuel, got spark. Seems to flood real easy. If plugs get wet can they be dried and used?
What's must obvious thing to check, then next, then next.
Thanks
Bud
 
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Re: FEE FIE FO FUM..my Z won't go

Bud,

Not sure to tell you about why your car is not restarting. But, with regard to the plugs it has been my recent experience that you can foul them out in a very short time and the car will not start. Put in new ones and it fires up.

I am having trouble with my newly acquired 77. Lately it is more under control but I had problems with fouling the plugs. I think I am on my 4th set. If you are in doubt get a new set. Good luck. John
 

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Re: FEE FIE FO FUM..my Z won't go

bud,
If you don't have a service manual now is the time to get one.
-I would start with your injector "cold start valve" as this may be leaking. Disconnect the injector connection, remove and dry your plugs,and try to start you car.
-You can reuse you plugs by blow drying with compressed air and reinstalling.
-Next I would do a fuel pressure test at pressue regulator.
If you pull off the vacuum line from the pressure regulator and you see gas the regulator is bad. This unit is not easy to test and is not adjustable. The pressure should be about 36 psi. This is what the regulator monitors and keeps the pressure at from the fuel pump.

Note:
The pressure of the fuel going to the injectors is very important.If the pressure goes up, more fuel will be injected during a certin period of time.When the pressure in the line gets too high, then the pressure regulator opens and allows some fuel to flow back to the tank by the return line.
good luck and Merry Christmas.
(zclock)
 

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Re: FEE FIE FO FUM..my Z won't go

AND check the temp sensor connections not only at the sensor but about a foot back up in the wire bundle. If they're green they need cleaning! Search archives for rich running. BTW if you happen to be adjusting valves or fiddling with things and cranking car with the dizzy cap off to prevent starting, make sure that you disconnect the connector to the cold start valve (injector). When it is cold out and you crank without starting the csv will pump fuel into the manifold and WILL flood the engine and foul the plugs (voice of experience, father-in-laws car, Denver winter 76 or 77, really cold, flooded car, AAA call for mechanic, had function of csv and thermotime explained to me, NOT PRETTY!).
 

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Yo Bud.
Just curious.....you did not of course manage to install your new rotor backward did you ?? And the leads at the cap are going to where they are supposed to at the sparkplugs right, correctly?? And the battery is 12.4 or stronger?? And the coil is connected correctly, and all vaccuum lines from bottom of distributor are attached and solid to their leads right??? Recheck all these insuring all connections are tight. I'll add more when you repost. shane-
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, y'all are swell guys. I'M PRETTY DANG SURE i GOT EVERYTHING TOGETHER RIGHT. Oops, too, loud.
i'LL TRY new plugs and unhooking cold start valve. See what happens. I tried by passing water temp by hooking the leads together on top of injectors. Did I mEss up doing that? dIDN'T MAKE ANY DIFF ANYWAY. So, it must be plugs or cold start, right? Could it be rotor? Looks ok, and how do ya put it on wrong way. It only fits one way. This is one of those very aggrivating thangs; I need a valium. pLUS, Now its raining and I'm sick allready, so I'll get back to y'all later, let ya know wut it is.
THANKS
 

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OH NO BUD!....

If you are talking about the bullet connectors that go to the temp sensor and thermotime sensors/switch what may have happened is that instead of bypassing the temp sensor, you may have bypassed the thermotime switch. If you connected the bullet connectors together that come from themotime switch what would happen is that you might be applying voltage to the csv each time you turn the key to 'start' which could flood the engine, or somehow have crossed the thermotime and coolant sensor connectors which if the thermotime is open would cause an open circuit to the coolant temp sensor. Check those wire #s and make sure they are reconnected to the correct sensors. Sometimes when you've been working on a project for so long we missconnect something and then look at it for days and not seeing the problem. I'm not sure what would happen if you short the in and out of the temp sensor to the ecu. It's designed to have around 200 ohms when full hot, so I can't imagine that the circuit seeing zero ohms is too good for it.
 
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