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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had to replace the left rear lower control A-arm. The hole for the sway bar bolt was torn out. Figured it would be easiest to get a good used one, which I did. So when I bought the A-arm, I was told they were the same for both sides. So I put it all together, and it is now making some terrible banging noises from the left rear wheel area when I go over lane dividers.. I check sway bar clearance, hub end play, tire spins easily, with no noise. This is what it looks like. Note, the lip is on the top for the left side, but is on the bottom for my right side. Is that right? I checked all the bolts for tightness. I checked also the exhaust, but it has room to move. I just don't see that it would be U-joint. They wouldn't make a banging noise, would they? I Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire
didn'tfeel any excessive play. I did replace the rubber bushings in the A-arm, but not the ones for the diff carrier....
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Scott in CA
 

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Check that the nut at the top of the strut is tight.
 

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Now that I look at your picture, it appears that you don't have the nut at the bottom of the sway bar link tight enough...that bushing doesn't look compressed at all, at least from what I can see
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So tightened up the sway bar nuts.
No difference.
I tried putting shims on the rear hatch buffers...no difference.
Cut tire air pressure fro 30 to 25 psi...better, but still there.
I will find a helper to ride in the back luggage area, and maybe he could find where the vibration is.
I do have a copy of the online manual.
Thx
 

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Have you considered simply removing the sway bar links as a troubleshooting measure? That would help you narrow down the source of the noise. Stock 240Z's did not have rear sway bars to begin with, so driving it that way is no problem (I know that because I had to order a rear bar from the dealer when I ordered my new 240).
 

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240's sold in the US did not have rear sway bars, in Europe they did. I suggested earlier that you check the nuts at the top of the strut and you said they were tight. However, the nut i'm thinking of is the single large one at the top of the strut, which sandwiches the bushings tight in the control arm. Not the ones visible at the top of the strut tower if you take the little plastic cover off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ghost, not sure I understand...I took off the plastic cover inside the car covering the top of the strut.... tightened all three on outside and the one in the middle.
Is there any other?
What holds the strut into the knuckle/hub?
Thx
 

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Are you experiencing "terrible banging noises" (post 1) or "vibration" (post 7)? Sounds to me like you may have fixed the terrible banging noise if now you're only dealing with a vibration.

Did you do anything with the strut cartridge (shock)? If yes, a loose gland nut on the strut tube could allow the strut cartridge to move up and down and cause a banging noise. Did you tighten/torque the new bushings with the car in the air or under weight? They should be tightened/torqued under weight, I would assume this would lead to squeaks and not loud banging noises or vibrations though. When you checked "hub end play", was that a wheel bearing check? I'd check that too by seeing if I could rock the wheel back and forth with my hands in the 12-6 and/or 9-3 positions, with the wheel in the air of course.

If you get your helper back there, have them make a video to share.
 

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A loose Gland Nut was my issue until I re-torqued to spec and threw on a small MIG tack between the Nut and Strut Housing to prevent the Nut from backing off. The tack is easily removed to replace the cartridges in the future. Multiple Track Days and Auto-Cross sessions w/o an incident.
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Another thing to think about is that the Rear Transverse Links (Control Arms) attach bolts are all torqued to spec w/ the suspension loaded or on the ground.
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A separated Diff Mount will allow the nose of the diff to rotate upwards, hence the factory Arresting Strap. Also check the gaps on your Mustache Bar End Bushings.

My $0.02¢
 
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