I can't see it hurting anything.
epoxy putty
i cut out the pieces in my floor that were rusted through and i welded new metal in those spots. i was wondering if some of my welds didnt seal the floor perfectly, if i could use epoxy putty to patch it up. im talking if the holes were a little bigger than pin holes. thank you much
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POR-15
use POR-15. It's a thick goopy sealant paint made for sealing pinholes, and makes a great rest preventative on both the inside and outside surfaces of the floor.
MSA sells it. Looks better than "bondo" style putty and is really easy to apply.
use POR-15. It's a thick goopy sealant paint made for sealing pinholes, and makes a great rest preventative on both the inside and outside surfaces of the floor.
MSA sells it. Looks better than "bondo" style putty and is really easy to apply.
ya i already put por15 on it. im talking about if i shine the light underneath the car, i can see spots where the even the cant seal. should i then use the putty?
mmmm...
I might have done the light check before final painting... and gone back and rewelded the holes.
Epoxy likes to bond to metal. I mean if you have PINHOLES, just put another coat of POR-15 on it, and it should seal. Having a few coats on the inside and outside is good insurance. Think about it, how often have you seen putty bond well to shiny paint?
I'd try another few coats of POR... If you have some left.
I might have done the light check before final painting... and gone back and rewelded the holes.
Epoxy likes to bond to metal. I mean if you have PINHOLES, just put another coat of POR-15 on it, and it should seal. Having a few coats on the inside and outside is good insurance. Think about it, how often have you seen putty bond well to shiny paint?
I'd try another few coats of POR... If you have some left.
I would sand paint away from the repair area first. The putty won't stick well to paint, but it will stick well to metal thinly coated with por 15. So if you painted over the por 15, sand back to it then use the putty. Then por 15 over the whole repair, because for some reason the area around that putty is going to want to be the first area the rust returns to....
i ude the fiberglass resin before bondo...i hate bondo.
Almost every product is good for what it was designed for. Even Bondo. Properly used, it's a great product. It's NOT a filler. You use it to skim coat it to cover scratches, not to fill canyons. The art of using a hammer and dolly has long been lost. Can anyone tell me the last time they used a shrinking hammer or a slap file? I think it's safe to say it's us old school body men that can still use them properly. Weld up a hole? Did you get rid of all the rust first? Did you cut an slightly oversize piece to put over it? Did you use a step flange to lay the new piece on? Did you use an rust removal acid before the POR 15? Did you .............the list goes on and on. Nowdays, the norm has turned to a chemical product because of the lost art and people want it done now. It's sad.
Shrinking Hammer? LAP WELD?!?!?!?
I was taught to use a regular dolly and body hammer with circular strikes and quenching/annealing...
As well as patch paneling WITHOUT the telltale lap flange. Hammerwelding was the ONLY way to repair a panel... Followed by the above technique.
My instructor, and later taskmaster desipsed those crosshatched faces as "lazymans" ways of doing things, as well as good for cutting the surface of the metal...
Either way, I only used the word "bondo" as a generic---likening the epoxy stick to "bondo" as it's a temporary repair.
Personally I would make sure the holes are all metal filled through proper rewelding, and then coat with POR-15.
In fact, if there was a friend to hold the dolly, I'd be seriously tempted to go back and hammer-finish the welds to see if the metal could be stretched to cover the holes, and give a better finish to the welded area. THEN cover it.
Either way, it's gonna require stripping the area again. So if that wants to be avoided, coat another POR-15 layer and see if the pinholes are sealed.
Adding a second filler that is not specifically compatible with the coating begs for trouble.
"The right way" is already shot in the a$$, so may as well eep the number of dissimilar components involved to a minimum to prevent what ghosttanker mentioned.
Post Edited (Oct 22, 8:47am)
I was taught to use a regular dolly and body hammer with circular strikes and quenching/annealing...
As well as patch paneling WITHOUT the telltale lap flange. Hammerwelding was the ONLY way to repair a panel... Followed by the above technique.
My instructor, and later taskmaster desipsed those crosshatched faces as "lazymans" ways of doing things, as well as good for cutting the surface of the metal...
Either way, I only used the word "bondo" as a generic---likening the epoxy stick to "bondo" as it's a temporary repair.
Personally I would make sure the holes are all metal filled through proper rewelding, and then coat with POR-15.
In fact, if there was a friend to hold the dolly, I'd be seriously tempted to go back and hammer-finish the welds to see if the metal could be stretched to cover the holes, and give a better finish to the welded area. THEN cover it.
Either way, it's gonna require stripping the area again. So if that wants to be avoided, coat another POR-15 layer and see if the pinholes are sealed.
Adding a second filler that is not specifically compatible with the coating begs for trouble.
"The right way" is already shot in the a$$, so may as well eep the number of dissimilar components involved to a minimum to prevent what ghosttanker mentioned.
Post Edited (Oct 22, 8:47am)
Remember people that today's cars are more "glued" together than welded. I work in the industry and have seen metal tear before the bond has given up. New products out there can be better than "old school" just finding them can be a job in itself. Epoxy putty can be very useful for small hole sealing. Used on the pin holes in the gas tank. Was leery at first but 6 months later all is well.
I got a 57 chevy front bumper. I'm gonna hammer it out and make a honda. Of course the metal will tear before the adhesive. Chit, you can take a new bumper and crumple it up with your hands and wipe yer arse with it nowdays.
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