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> Sounds like no-one has any real preference
> with respect to the manufacturer of the
> aftermarket ignition system - fair enough.

> I just like the idea of using the original
> motor with the car. I am by no means a
> purist when it comes to restoration - I plan
> to put on a nice set of chrome Enkei rims +
> customise the interior. I will also do some
> nice things with the paint.
1) As time goes on and the engine tires out you will want to consider the L28. It has more HP and torque than the L26. There are many reasons the L26 was made for only 1 year.
2) When looking at rims be very careful. The 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX use a very unusual '0' offset wheel which is very difficult to find today. Offset is the distance from the centerline of the wheel to the mounting surface. Backspacing is a similar term that measures from the inside edge of the wheel to the mounting surface. On a 7 wide wheel '0' offset would be 3 1/2 backspaced. If you are planning on changing wheels I wou suggest you go to a 16 x 7 with either 205/55-16 or 225/50-16 tires. That is the maximum tire/wheel width that will fit under the wheel well and be rotatable front to rear. It also looks very nice. I purchased a set of aluminum Centerline Trident II's. They come in several different looks that Centerline will build to fit your car.

> Thanks for the info about the cam - Crane
> cams seem to be very well though of - I will
> have to assess what is in the car first.

> I'll think about those Webers.

> I'll see how I like to 4-speed on the
> highway before springing for a 5 speed. I
> drive 100km/day total round trip to work.
> Almost all highway.
3) Since most of your driving is highway I strongly recommend the 5-spd. It will make a significant diffenece in engine rpm. Doesn't affect fuel economy that much but will make a significant difference in interior noise and engine longevity. The best combination is the later model 5-spd (.745:1 OD) out of the '81-83 ZX's along with a 3.90 R200 differential. Give the best highway cruising/accelleration combination.
> Good info about spark plugs. NKG seem very
> popular with these cars - I will see if they
> offer a copper variety. I am a bit wary of
> silver - silver oxidizes doesn't it? Surely
> the performance of silver plated plugs would
> deteriorate quickly?
4) I vote for the NGK plugs too. I've tried every type plug known tomankind over the last 30 years and, for the Z, nothing is clearly superior to the NGK's - just harder to get and more expensive.
> I have a front air dam. I must say - I
> prefer to plainer look of Z's without it but
> I have some ideas about how I can
> incorporate it into my paint design. Also a
> friend of mine had a 240 and said it became
> quite scary driving at high speed without a
> dam. Typically I don't exceed 180Km/h 120
> Mph.
I have the Motorsport Aero II kit on my Z. It is rock solid at 180kph. It has the side panels and rear spoiler in addition to the front air dam but it is probably the front air dam that contributes the most to the stability.

> Thanks for info on machine work - I won't
> rush into anything.

> As for lowering - the car currently has
> 196/60/14 rubber (14 rims obviously).
> This lowers the car somewhat and I like that
> slightly lowered look. I had considered
> looking into lowering the car ever so
> slightly and running taller rubber than what
> is on it. Reason is that I am not as happy
> with how well the rubber on it fills the
> wheel wells. I have to do some thinking
> about it before I step into a major purchase
> decision with the Enkei's.
5) See my comment #2 above. Be careful with the idea of lowering the car - especially if you're looking at it as a daily driver. The Z has a lot of overhang front and rear and you'll be hitting curbs a lot if you lower the car. Also, if you use shorter springs to lower the car you'll need to use different struts too. This will end up setting you back $600-800 US.
> I love high speed cornering (I used to live
> in N. Ireland so I am a big fan of driving
> insanely fast around hilly tight corners -
6) My mother was born in County Armaugh and I love to drive insanely fast around tight corners - maybe it's an ethnic thing?
> there just isn't enough up here in
> Alberta... sigh). I have heard it is a good
> idea to upgrade all the bushings. How
> reliable is the steering? I definitely want
> something I can trust when cornering.
7) Definitely upgrade all your suspension bushings and steering coupler to urethane. It will tighten up the steering and provide more feedback. The basic steering system is excellent. Remember, though, the car is 25 years old and all the rubber stuff is probably shot and your springs and struts are probably sagged and soft. NOthing inherently dangerous but the handling improvement obtained with renewing all those parts is phenomenal.

> Also - the car will only be run in summer -
> +30 Celsius - is there cooling system
> upgrades I should consider? I am already
> going to upgrade to a three core radiator
> assuming there is sufficient fan clearance.
7) Just go through the entire cooling system. Make sure it is clean, that you have the three row radiator and a good water pump, and you'll be fine. I run my car in Texas in the summer (40°C+) with the A/C o full blast with no overheating problems. I also run the 71°C thermostat to help it stay a bit cooler than the standard 82°C. It still has plenty of heat when it's -10°C outside. The heater will cook meout of the car.
> Many thanks for your comments...
You're welcome,
Phantom
 
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