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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I'm getting a nice bonus check in November and seeing all these pics of 88hybrids car is really making me think that a similar project would be fun.

I don't know how to do all this welding, cutting and fabrication of parts, so i'm thinking more along the lines of going with a setup that will pretty much drop in without requiring me to manufacture much on my own. here are some things i was looking into:

vg30et: obviously the easiest direct swap.

vg33: another easy swap

vg34: this is what i've wanted to do for awhile. bore the vg33 out, put in the infiniti v8 pistons. My main question about this setup is this: are the heads from the vg30 the same as the ones from the vg33? furthermore, will the vg30de heads with dual cams bolt onto a vg30 or vg33 block? cause if so, this is what i want: vg34 with dual cam heads and then maybe a turbo one day. does anybody know about these vg engines and which parts are swappable?

i was also considering a vg30det from a japanese car (isn't this the 300ZR setup?)

I'm not looking to build a rocket car, but I don't like leaving things the way they came from the factory. I'm looking to build myself a setup that will get between 275 and 300hp. any more is fine, but 275 seems like a good reasonable number to me. I just need help deciding which engine would be the best bang for the buck. I want to buy the block, tear it down and totally rebuild it myself (unless i have to have it bored or whatnot.) and get it ready to go outside of the car, and then just drop it in when i'm ready and finished.

thanks in advance for any help.
 

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If all you want is 275-300HP, then all you need is a VG30ET.

And no you cant bolt the heads from a VG30DE to a VG30E.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
my main issue is heat, and thats the one reason why i've been considering a vg33 or making a vg34. Ideally i would like to get that kind of power without a turbo. I'm in the process of redesigning the cooling system cause my car overheats in traffic in the summer as it is and i cannot use the a/c at all. I'm in the process of fabricating a new shroud and a dual electric fan setup, as my single electric fan bolted right on the rad wasnt adequate. putting in a larger rad and a 195 thermostat in place of the default 170 helped a lot, but i still can't use the a/c in the summer, and when its up to 117, you need the a/c.

I was thinking that a vg33 with cams, larger injectors and z32tt fuel pump, gutted intake manifold, new computer and exhaust should do get me close to my goal. i already have done the k&n filter, that was too easy not to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
its not a factory cooling system. i took the engine fan and the factory shroud off and replaced it with one 16" electric fan, which quite obviously isn't adequate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it worked perfectly before i took the original shroud and fan off. in fact last winter, right after my brother crashed the car, i drove it around all winter long with no hood, no front bumper, no shroud and NO fan. and it ran just fine. as soon as i put a hood on it, it needed a fan. I originally took it off because my fan clutch went out just after putting my car all back together, and it was bolted shut allowing the fan no slippage. this was bad for power, gas mileage, water pump life, and it kept sucking the shroud into the fan until it wore a hole in it.

as it got warmer outside, it because quite obvious that the fan by itself was far from adequate. Next step i did was replace the cap, cause the car would get so hot the coolant would boil and the cap would just let it all out. after replacing the cap with a higher pressure cap, i blew the tank off the radiator. I was astonished to find that the core on the stock radiator was only 1/2" thick!! I replaced it with a radiator that was a full 1" thick, and put my fan on it and that radiator combined with the cap would keep the temperature running right where it was supposed to, as long as I didn't turn the a/c on or get on the freeway. then i pulled the thermostat out, tested it and found that it does in fact work, and opened wide up at 170 degrees just as its supposed to. I then replaced this thermostat with a 195 degree thermostat, which causes it to open slower, giving the coolant more time to cool off through the radiator before going back to the engine. this helped a lot, more than any of the other things, but still its obvious that theres just not enough airflow through the radiator. I'm designing a shroud that will attach two 12" fans with the same flow rate as my 1 16" fan, twice as much air flows through, and flows through the entire radiator, instead of cooling only a 16" wide section of the radiator and allowing the rest to be uncooled.

wow, that was quite a novel, i need a beer after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
water pump is brand new was replaced last winter as well. the timing belt tentioner spring popped when my bro hit my car and i replaced the water pump the same time i did the timing belt and oil seals and tensioner. 3 core radiator would be nice though. 3 cores of aluminum is what i'd like.
 

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I had an overheating issue with my 84 300zxT, and it turned out to be a small rad leak. I couldnt see any steam coming from the car, but after a few days, enough fluid would leak out, and my car would begin to heat up at stop lights. At first, i thought that the resovior for the rad was leaking, but after having the rad sent in to be sealed, the issue never occured again. And living in Orlando FL, it definetly gets hot enough. Check for leaks in your radiator (cooling) system before you shrug off the VG30ET. Good luck

-----------
1984 300zx Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter #12
believe me, after blowing the tank off my last radiator, i definitely check it on a regular basis. my car hasn't lost any fluid since i fixed the problem with all of the above mentioned steps. I think that once i create this shroud and switch to a dual fan setup heat hopefully wont be an issue. I need the Maxima alternator before i can put another elec. fan in though, i'm already stressing the charging system to the max.
 
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