My 1977 280Z revs and idles fine. When I engage the clutch and start to move, the engine starts to sputter and die. I've already changed the fuel filter and I'm starting to think it may be the fuel pressure regulator. Any z owners out there have this happen before? What should I check next?
Engine dies under load
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Yo RivetHead.
Absolutely love that name......ha,ha,.......Okay. Revs but won't engage, eh??? Here's what to do next: Remove your Lower return Hose off the passengers side fuel rail. It will NOT be the one coming from your fuel filter. Put many rags underneath it and don't use a 'drop light' or smoke any ciggarettes. Now put your ignition key in the ON position.... do not engage the key further to start your car. Check that the lower return hose is actually returning fuel onto those rags you placed underneath. If this is indeed the case than yes you are getting fuel past your new fuel filter and from the fuel pump so lets proceed to other systems. Pull all spark plugs and clean 'em or replace 'em and gap to 32. Check for frayed ignition plug wires and coil wire. Remove distributor cap and rotor and replace. We will assume your current cap and rotor are worthless while considering your Z's problems. With all back together....plugs at 32 and new distributor cap and matching rotor and all leads secure and tight fitting.... its time to check your oil. If not changed in the past 500miles then get 5quarts and do this now. We'll keep the old oil filter unless older than 2000miles or 4months. Now start your Z. Drive around the block. Perhaps it was your ignition timing via a poor performing distributor cap and rotor that was electrically cutting off spark and producing your suddenly dead engine. While redoing your new cap and rotor check underneath for the wire coming off the bottom of the distributor and trace it being certain it is connected. Check the coil positive and neg leads for tightness. Next check the single/3 vaccuum lines coming off the bottom of the distributor as well. If none of this has helped than the obvious culprit is possibly your fuel pump or your fuel injection relays located atop the fuse box. Get new fuel injection relays from your Nissan dealer as few other auto stores will have these. Well, some other systems to check for you at least Huh??? Goodluck.
Have fun. shane-
Absolutely love that name......ha,ha,.......Okay. Revs but won't engage, eh??? Here's what to do next: Remove your Lower return Hose off the passengers side fuel rail. It will NOT be the one coming from your fuel filter. Put many rags underneath it and don't use a 'drop light' or smoke any ciggarettes. Now put your ignition key in the ON position.... do not engage the key further to start your car. Check that the lower return hose is actually returning fuel onto those rags you placed underneath. If this is indeed the case than yes you are getting fuel past your new fuel filter and from the fuel pump so lets proceed to other systems. Pull all spark plugs and clean 'em or replace 'em and gap to 32. Check for frayed ignition plug wires and coil wire. Remove distributor cap and rotor and replace. We will assume your current cap and rotor are worthless while considering your Z's problems. With all back together....plugs at 32 and new distributor cap and matching rotor and all leads secure and tight fitting.... its time to check your oil. If not changed in the past 500miles then get 5quarts and do this now. We'll keep the old oil filter unless older than 2000miles or 4months. Now start your Z. Drive around the block. Perhaps it was your ignition timing via a poor performing distributor cap and rotor that was electrically cutting off spark and producing your suddenly dead engine. While redoing your new cap and rotor check underneath for the wire coming off the bottom of the distributor and trace it being certain it is connected. Check the coil positive and neg leads for tightness. Next check the single/3 vaccuum lines coming off the bottom of the distributor as well. If none of this has helped than the obvious culprit is possibly your fuel pump or your fuel injection relays located atop the fuse box. Get new fuel injection relays from your Nissan dealer as few other auto stores will have these. Well, some other systems to check for you at least Huh??? Goodluck.
Have fun. shane-
Slight correction to Shane280Z posting.
With key to ON, the fuel pump should NOT run. Period. Check the FSM, there is a table that explains this. To do the test he suggests, try this instead.
Use a jar, not a rag, and put the return hose into the jar. Unplug the wire to the starter solenoid. The starter will not turn now. Now turn your key to START. This will engage your fuel pump, without turning over the engine. Note, with no vacuum applied to the fuel pressure regulator, I'm not too sure how much fuel you will see coming back from the rail. Maybe plenty, since it is designed to prevent overpressure as well as underpressure. Just not sure.
With key to ON, the fuel pump should NOT run. Period. Check the FSM, there is a table that explains this. To do the test he suggests, try this instead.
Use a jar, not a rag, and put the return hose into the jar. Unplug the wire to the starter solenoid. The starter will not turn now. Now turn your key to START. This will engage your fuel pump, without turning over the engine. Note, with no vacuum applied to the fuel pressure regulator, I'm not too sure how much fuel you will see coming back from the rail. Maybe plenty, since it is designed to prevent overpressure as well as underpressure. Just not sure.
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