PTU...
then CAS. Check the connectors first obviously. Then see if a buddy has some known good ones to try.
then CAS. Check the connectors first obviously. Then see if a buddy has some known good ones to try.
End of the rope...
I've run into about five problems on my car the last two weeks. Sticky steering knuckle, injector failure, fan clutch that will be useless once the temp rises any more, and this morning the car wouldn't start.
I've had no start issues whatsoever, but this morning I hit the key and it popped off for a split second then nothing. I can crank and crank, but I get nothing. Smells like raw fuel out the back, so I assume no spark.
I'll confirm the no spark hunch tonight, also I ran codes and I'm getting a 55.
Any ideas on where to start? I'm thinking I might get this thing running and go buy an Acura or something... this is getting ridiculous.
Thanks guys.
I've had no start issues whatsoever, but this morning I hit the key and it popped off for a split second then nothing. I can crank and crank, but I get nothing. Smells like raw fuel out the back, so I assume no spark.
I'll confirm the no spark hunch tonight, also I ran codes and I'm getting a 55.
Any ideas on where to start? I'm thinking I might get this thing running and go buy an Acura or something... this is getting ridiculous.
Thanks guys.
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Also my next two thoughts. Thanks. God this car is a pain in the ass.
I know the only good way to check the PTU is to just swap with a good one, but what about the CAS? Can't you pull it out and listen to it click or something? Thanks guys
J
J
Yeah...POZTERBOY said:I know the only good way to check the PTU is to just swap with a good one, but what about the CAS? Can't you pull it out and listen to it click or something? Thanks guys
J
pull the cas, and pull the number one plug. Disconnect the fuel pump relay, and spin the cas with the ignition on. Every second time around number one should throw a spark if it is grounded well on the plenum.
CAS failure gives you a code.....
2nd PTU
Mike
2nd PTU
Mike
I've had many CAS failures with no code thrown.
I also say start with the PTU. If you have fuel ("Smells like raw fuel out the back") it appears the CAS is working.
I also say start with the PTU. If you have fuel ("Smells like raw fuel out the back") it appears the CAS is working.
Woody,
All I'm sayin is if your CAS is boned you'll get a code 11
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html
If the CAS is working you will hear the fuel injectors pulsing ( as your assistant is cranking ).
As Max said
"pull the cas, and pull the number one plug. Disconnect the fuel pump relay, and spin the cas with the ignition on. Every second time around number one should throw a spark if it is grounded well on the plenum."
Mike
All I'm sayin is if your CAS is boned you'll get a code 11
http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html
If the CAS is working you will hear the fuel injectors pulsing ( as your assistant is cranking ).
As Max said
"pull the cas, and pull the number one plug. Disconnect the fuel pump relay, and spin the cas with the ignition on. Every second time around number one should throw a spark if it is grounded well on the plenum."
Mike
I'm the temp sender is bad you should get a code 13
Mike
Mike
/Agree. But your temp sensor can also go bad in a way that it doesn't toss a code but it tells your engine it is the wrong temperature. Codes are only tossed if the sensors send info back that is out of range. If your temp sensor went bad enough that it wouldnt let the car run, it would toss the code, otherwise, it would run like poop!
I have had two Z32 CAS units go bad without a single code.
I think it's a PTU issue or wiring harness for the PTU.
I think it's a PTU issue or wiring harness for the PTU.
Yep, I've had 3-4 bad CAS with one personally on my car. No codes.
I messed with some connections at the PTU and it seems to run fine now. It all looked ok, but this weekend I'll buy some di-electric and tear into a few places. That never hurts.
Thanks fellas.
Thanks fellas.
I had the code with Reds CAS which was really really F'ed.
I also had 2 that would allow the car to run..but like poo and no codes.
Typically the yellow ( 2 pin temp sender ) either is a go or no go....and if it's a no go it's typically
Green death or broken wires... I have yet to personally see / measure one outta spec.
I still agree it's PTU or wiring related.
Mike
I also had 2 that would allow the car to run..but like poo and no codes.
Typically the yellow ( 2 pin temp sender ) either is a go or no go....and if it's a no go it's typically
Green death or broken wires... I have yet to personally see / measure one outta spec.
I still agree it's PTU or wiring related.
Mike
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