Disconnect the battery, turn on the lights to discharge all the electrics. Set the timing at 7/10 degrees. Run hard for at least twenty five minutes. Reset timing to normal. This fools the ecu which re-learns, but doesn't know what the problem is. Hang on!!! Make sure you have very good, fresh fuel.
NO! You do not have to change any timing or drive the car hard or what not. Simply disconnect the battery and wait 20 to 30 minutes. All "Learned" data will be wiped. Turning the lights on doesn't work the way you would expect because the lights are relay controlled and the relays drop out above the voltage needed to reset the ECU. If you have any large audio caps installed then disconnect that as well.
I found this by accident in 1992 when I thought my stock racing motor was giving up and we changed motors. During the first practice session (25 minutes), the new motor performed about like the one it replaced. After checking it out, we found the timing was set at 5 degrees BTC instead of the 17 we normally ran. After reseting the timing, the thing was a rocket,I qualified on the pole, and won the race. This became a regular maintenance procedure every fourth race in order to keep the stock ecu in tip top shape.
The original motor had stretched the timing belt way out of specs in about two thousand race miles.
Just have to be sure all the capacitors are drained. I always had a week or so between races so there was never a problem. You may, put on the brake lights, or open the door for the constant curcuit bypassing the switches.
The approach that Racerbud uses is to fool the ECU into changing the learned value. It doesn't reset the ECU. If simply changes the base ignition/fuel offset. The better approach, in his case, would be to apply a better fuel and ignition map.
The rules were STOCK ECU only. At 20/25 minutes in a practice session at 5 degrees BTDC the ECU compensated for what it didn't know was wrong, Fuel and timing. When timing was reset at 17 degrees it was already mapped. Dah!!
On the street there are no rules on ECU setup other then emissions. No need for such tomfoolery on a street car. Another reason why: "What works on the track is not always what's needed on the street". It's also another reason I always liked SCCA’s SPO class. NO STINKEN RULES!
I think, in bigcg533's case, your suggestion does not apply.
Good morning everyone...just fishing around about how everyone feels about selling there Z. I have owned this car since 2003 and feel it maybe time to sell
It's a 2+2 twin turbo
It has been my dream car for a very long time.
You always hear stories about people saying I should have never sold...
New '94 Z32 owner here
Driver fender has a dent, what's the best place to get a replacement? Post in the parts Wanted section?
Driver rocker also has a dent...is it best to have a shop pull it out?
I guess only way to get a replacement rocker is to cut out of another car and that'd be a decent...
Hi everyone, I have converted my 1990 300zx 2+2 to LEDs (mostly). There have been a couple issues since however.
#1 . The red 'Lights' warning light on the dash comes on when braking. I'll try to post a pic.
#2 . The trunk light flashes quickly when closing the driver's side door.
#3 . The...
Been a long time since I've posted here but I'm back to working on the Zs again. Current project is a complete engine replacement of the wife's 1990 Z32 TT. Picked up a 1995 JDM engine and now I'm getting things prepped for installation. Still need to remove the current engine but at I have...