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Discussion Starter #1
Following the Haynes manual I ran a self-diagnostic on the car through the ecu…I got 4 sets of codes witch where 11,23,31,32…. I hope some of u guys can help before take it somewhere and get over charged…
I am either not getting enough fuel, or fuel pressure to the injectors while maintaining highway speeds and rpms…or there is a ignition problem…
When on the highway is when it happens most often, the engine seems to loose power, u can feel the car slow down the RPMS come down slowly even though my foot is still on the gas…


Any 1 have the problem?
 

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Well code 11 is saying that you have a bad crank angle sensor which if thats true can cause some problems. Code is saying your idle switch signal circuit is open. I'm not sure but I think this may be related to your TPS. Code 31 is saying your ECU input signal is beyond the normal range. Code 32 is saying your EGR is malfunctioning. The EGR is mainly for emissions purposes but can cause a rich condition if bad. Did you replace the crank angle sensor when the timing belt was done? How did your car do when you took it for a smog check? In general when is the last time the car was tunned up? I'm not talking about just plugs, wires, oil, etc I'm talking about making sure your TPS was adjusted properly, all sensor connections weren't dirty or loose, wires are intact, etc.
 

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is the TPS the Throttle position sensor????

I have had the car for about 6 months; it was sitting for a while before I got it. But its only been running for a month in a half or so the timing belt was replaced before I got it…I have about half the life left on it
so in other words i am not sure when it was checked over...but i did change the wires,plugs,oil,dis.cap and oil...
i just want it to run right so i dont have to worry anymore
 

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Okay, general rule of thumb for a car that has been sitting is that you want to drop the gas tank, drain the gas, clean the inside of the tank. A lot of times when a car has been sitting rust and other bits build up in the tank, then when you go to turn it on for the first time all those rust piecies get sucked up and clog things like the fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, injectors, etc. Thats why in your other post I suggested that you check your fuel pressure. You'll want to check the fuel pressure after the fuel filter as the first spot. If that checks out then check the injectors. Now if fuel pressure is weak or off/on after the fuel filter check it before the fuel filter. If the fuel psi is good before the filter but bad after the filter than a bad fuel filter is supsect. Then again fuel filters are cheap and should be replaced every couple years anyway so if you haven't done that yet do it. Basicly work your way backwards with the fuel pressure until you find the problem. Yes the TPS is the throttle positioning sensor, usually this part doesn't require checking but if any of the previous owners messed with it then it could need adjusting. As for the crank angle sensor that is a sensor that should be changed at the time of the timing belt as well as the senor harness. Usually not a sensor that goes bad often but becuase it's in a hard to get place it's recomended just to replace it at the time of the timing belt service. Also have you checked the AFM. No real way to test the AFM but when mine went bad it caused a problem where sometimes when I would hit the gas to go or if I was cruising the power would cut out for a second or two. Here is a list of things I would look into

Fuel pressure- test it at different points
Check and adjust TPS
Check all electrical connections and senors for looseness or dirtyness
Check AFM-probably not the problem since the ECU codes didn't show for it
Check and adjust distributor timing
Check and replace as needed all vac and fuel hoses
Lastly find out if your car has been serviced for the Nissan recall on the injectors.
 

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I've never heard of replacing the crank angle sensor as a routine procedure during a timing belt change. CHTS maybe, but not the CAS.
 

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You know what Mister T you are absolutly right, my bad. It's been a long couple of days working two 12hr shifts back to back at the hospital. I can't believe I mixed those two sensors up. So Dark Forest ignore the comment about the crank angle sensor. Still if you ECU codes are showing it's bad you want to replace it. Me being wrong just means that the CAS is in an easier place to get to rather than the CHTS. Sorry about the mix up. Off to bed I go.
 
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