ECU codes Help!!!

Just drive it for a few days and see if the codes come back.

Should be fine

EDIT: Should give more detail.....
Disconnecting the batt doesn't always clear the codes, unless it was disconnected for 12+ hours. Some may say it doesn't take that long but my experience says it sometimes does. The codes could have been from messing with the car in the past. It take ~50 hot-cold cycles before the codes will disappear on their own. When you set the ECU back to normal all was reset.

So if I disconnect the battery over night that would most likely do it?

aye

Now all that being said... if you had a laptop software like consult... you could clear em RFN!

Mike

Disconnect both of the battery terminals and touch them together for about five minutes. This will drain all the electrical circuits and re-set the codes.

Hmm, I wouldn't do that...

I have had the negative terminal off for 3hours now, I will check in the morning and let you guys know if the codes are still there. I really don't understand though, The car runs better now than ever before. Is Consult free?

There is a free version. I recommend Nissan data scan. That is what I use. It's very comprehensive and includes a feature to clear codes and clear all ecu learning.

Just downloaded Conzult, Where do i get the connect cable?

KyleKidd said:

Hmm, I wouldn't do that...

Click to expand...

and why not? he didnt say touch the battery's terminals together. He said to disconnect the terminals then touch them together. You're creating a ground for the entire electrical system and draining and voltage any capacitors might be holding.

I read it wrong.

If the probelm persists, verify that the main efi harness connector is fully seated and tightened into the ecu. I have experienced the phantom code issue in the past, turned out the outer corners of the ecu connector were not fully seated from a careless install from whoever was in there previously. The owner had the car to two different dealerships with no progress.

The ONLY reason I wouldn't do the connect both battery terminals together... if if the car had a large CAP for the car stereo... or like in Kyles case there were 2 booster batteries in the back for the amps.

I would measure the leads first THEN short em together.. if you feel it's needed.

I like ECU talk, it's freeware and it's pretty cool, to get an adaptor , there are lots on flea bay..

Mike

I had no idea those batteries were there by the way, until I stripped it all down.

There was also a huge cap back there as well.

Haha well i ended up having a bunch going on, battery is still disconnected, going to put it back together tomorrow, and ill check the harness to the ecu. Start it, drive it and check for codes.

If you guys want to go welding with all the batteries, then go for it. All you are doing by touching the cables together is relieving the circuit of its electricity with no batteries attached. If there is no electricity, there are no codes, (system reset).

So.... I had the battery disconnected for 2 days, checked the harness to the ecu to make sure it had a solid connection, Started my car and the CEL was off, for about 10 seconds. I let it warm up and the CEL kept going on then off, didn't matter what i did, I would rev to 2k and it would shut off, Or it would be off at idle, I rev to 2k and it would turn on.. And sitting at idle every 20seconds or so it would shut off, then 20 or so from there turn back on.. Confusing. So I checked the codes.. Instead of the 6 I had before, I have just code 33 which is O2 correct? Something to do with the plugs or harness?

depending on how old the vehicle is (Years and miles) you might just need new sensors..

Yeah I thought about that.. checked the O2s and they are pretty new looking.. the wires are still pretty shiny and new looking, So im thinking the wires that head to the ecu and cracked or something like that, the plugs have no Green death