Met with Dave Rebello today to finalize the work for our 3.3 stroker. shooting for 330 flywheel HP which he said is no problem. it wasa toss up whether to do a 3.1 or a 3.3 stroker, but wanted to go with forged pistons and different rods with 30 more HP so 3.3 it was.
pretty much have it all mapped out, but wanted some input from people here on clutch/flywheel options.
i can use my current 225mm 240z flywheel and have it lightened.
can buy aftermarket 225mm or 240mm flywheel (need opinions)
so question is go with 225mm with it or 240mm and what would be advantages or disadvantages of either?
going with triple Mikunis on a Cannon intake with current 3/2 header on engine with current 2.5 inch exhaust or might have to update to 3 inch he said.
the 3.90 R200 rear is fine so that doesnt change except for maybe installing a lsd.
any suggestions as what to watch out for or other suggestions?
You need to redo your math. it is only 3168 cc's. THere is also no way that you could bore any of the blocks more than that. I know this Because I have sonic tested every block. I would redo some calculations.
i will certainly double check the figures, but im pretty sure it worked out to be 3.3. I trust Dave in what hes building and talking about, but it never hurts to double check whats being used and what the final measurements are.
he said our 1-5/8 header would be sufficient with a 3 inch exhaust as we are not all out racing this engine as its only being street driven and probably never even be run at the track.
all this will be gone over again towards the end of the build to make sure the right parts/pieces are used.
since i am just learning Datsun mechanicals (Pontiac racer for 35 years), its best to just let Rebello do this for us the first go round.
we originally bought this car to do a V8 conversion which would have been very easy for me building it and getting it in, but my son decided on the stroker which left me...well...datsun uneducated to say the least.
only things i am supplying is the crank, dizzy, header, flywheel and clutch. the forged pistons, billet rods and head porting is where alot of the cost is. that price also includes break in on the dyno.
Street driven, never to be run at the track? I wouldn't bother with the additional cost of going to 3.3 (custom rods, forged pistons, custom welded/offset ground crank?). You can run stock 240Z rods and KA24E pistons at 7000rpm and beyond all day long. You're definitely getting into the region of diminishing hp gains/dollar spent by going to forged pistons and custom rods. I see absolutely NO need for those for your intended usage.