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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
Never had issues before on my 82 280ZX, now reverse is grinding and hard to engage with engine running
Engages easily with engine off while clutch pedal fully depressed
Please give me your 2 cents Thanks
PS havent checked tranny fluid yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Dave
I didnt know the 280 had an hydraulic clutch
I assumed it was cable actuated and I was going to see if I could adjust the cable to fully actuate the clutch but I guess thats all wrong Where is the hydraulic fluid reaervoir for the master/slave cylinder located?
 

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1983 280ZX Turbo
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You need to download the service manual from Nicoclub.com. The clutch master and its connection to the slave are easy to spot, so if you're having trouble with them the manual will be a lot of help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok fellow Z enthusiasts
The car has a hudr clutch! Duhhh
The reservoir is pratically empty
The cylinder that actuates the "fork" has a small leak
Do its my fault for now checking the fluid level often
So obviously have to fix this
The master up above and the slave cylinder below look older than the Pyramids in Egypt
So here are a few questions please
1- whats a good source for replacement master and slave cylinder?
2- do I need to replace the ( several ft long) hard line connecting the master to the slave cylinder? Yes or no and why please. Cant a good jet of compressed air clean it up internally before it sees new fluid?
3- what about the foot long flex hose from the hard line to the slave cylinder?
4- is the nipple on the slave cylinder ( at the bottom) the proper point to bleed the fluid? I dont see another nipple anywhere
5- finally would refular break fluid works in this system?
thanks a bunch and see pics below
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1983 280ZX Turbo
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I'd start simple and cheap.

Replace the slave cylinder - that's under $50. Refill and bleed the clutch, clean off the oil, and drive it.

It doesn't matter if the master clutch cylinder looks old, if it's working OK you can leave it alone. Looks to me like there's a leak in the slave cylinder and that's where the brake fluid went.

It's a 45 minute job.
 

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I'd buy the rubber hose just in case. When I did my slave cylinder, I couldn't get the rubber line out of the slave cylinder. I had to unscrew the rubber line from the hard line with the slave cylinder dangling from the end. Cheap insurance in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Agree 100% with above assessment
But still
Where is best place to order?
Regular brake fluid works?
Thanks
 

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1983 280ZX Turbo
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Same brake fluid as your car....although what I use in my clutch (not in the brakes) is DOT 5 fluid because it doesn't draw water from the air, and therefore the slave piston and cylinder don't get corroded.

Order from NAPA or Nissan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I ordered the slave cylinder and the flex hose from Zcar parts (?) and will go to Napa pickup a bottle of the good stuff
My plan is to remove the SCyl and flex hose, let it drain, blow out as much as I can of old fluid via compressed air and clean reservoir
Once parts come in , then i may need your support again as to how to fill it up with no air bubbles in the system
Thanks a bunch
 

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Listen to what Pilgrim said.... start with the slave cylinder. simple stuff first, always. don't mess with the master cylinder unless it is failing. and also agree with ^^^^^^^ comment for NAPA. they have good OEM replacement parts. Also, it would be a good time to check and replace the oil in the transmission. It might be real old or perhaps even dry.
Like an engine, or a diff, or even lube points on the chassis and suspension... a freshly lubed up transmission full of oil is a happy transmission :)

As everyone has said, just replace the slave and see what happens and then go from there.

Bon
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Old slave Cyl removed and line flushed with compressed air
Now waiting for replacement cyl and flex hose
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By the way this is a recurring problem on all older z’s! I highly recommend the DOT 5 fluidly as this clutch cylinder is exposed constantly yo moisture and that short rod is moving in and out.
Scott in South Carolina
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I will be installing the cyl and filling/flushing the system with DOT 5 fluid as recommended, however I will be doing it by myself
So I would welcome advice from the experts in this forum
I know it will require lots of trips from underneath car to cabin, and I dint mind it but I have been watching YT videos on how to gravity flush the system and I am not sure whats d best way to do this.
thanks for the help so far
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I'd change the master and hose too. We used to rebuild them and the master frequently fails right after the slave is repaired.

As far as dot 5, they ran fine for years on dot 3. Note that changing fluid is considered maintenance and extends the life of the hardware.

A pressure bleeder makes it simple. Buy quality parts so you don't get unwanted practice changing clutch hydraulics.
 

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1983 280ZX Turbo
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A note FYI: when I got my 83 ZX I was living in Texas. It was so humid that the brake fluid in the clutch circuit drew moisture quickly. Consider this: brake fluid gets hot and the water is vaporized occasionally when the brakes are used hard, but clutch fluid does not get hot, so water can pool in the slave cylinder and cause corrosion quickly.

I replaced two clutch slave cylinders in 5 years....which gets old, even if it's not expensive. Water corrosion both times.

That's when I decided to use DOT5 in the clutch because it doesn't draw moisture and the higher temp brake fluids aren't needed in a clutch application which never gets anywhere near the temp of brake fluid. I drained the system, poured denatured alcohol through the master and let it drain out the bottom, gave it an hour to dry the alcohol, then connected the hose to the slave, filled and bled the system.

I live in Colorado now, where humidity is so low that this isn't necessary, but I have never had to mess with it. It now has worked just fine for 25 years with no further maintenance.
 

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1983 280ZX Turbo
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If you have someone handy who is capable of pressing the clutch pedal, you can bleed it in a minute or so using the standard push/open valve/close valve/release method. They push, you do the bleeding underneath.

Seems like you're making this a bit more complicated than it needs to be. It's a really simple job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
New clutch cylinder and flex hose installed System bleed and pressurized with no leaks, and clutch pedal feels nice
Thanks to all for the support Cheers
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