[Unknown User]

I have a '72 Z with what looks to be origional struts and bushing, and I'd like to go in and replace everything. Nothing fancy, just something a little bit of an upgrade from origional equipment. I'll be working with a friend of mine who's done lots of engine rebuilds and the like but never struts. How hard is this type of work? What type of special tools would we need?

 

[Unknown User]

> I have a '72 Z with what looks to be
> origional struts and bushing, and I'd like
> to go in and replace everything. Nothing
> fancy, just something a little bit of an
> upgrade from origional equipment. I'll be
> working with a friend of mine who's done
>ots of engine rebuilds and the like but
> never struts. How hard is this type of work?
> What type of special tools would we need?

Job is very easy. No special tools are needed.

Front jack car up by cross member,
Remove tires
unbolt tie rods and torsion bars,
Unbolt brake line at calipers,
Unbolt sway bar
unbolt strut from strut tower,
strut can be lowered and swung outsid of fender to replace strut cartridge,
Spring compressor may be needed depending on the spring on the car.

Rear same procedure. Do not remove strut from A arm this is a compression fit and its removal is not required. I made this mistake and it cost me.

 

[Unknown User]

> I have a '72 Z with what looks to be
> origional struts and bushing, and I'd like
> to go in and replace everything. Nothing
> fancy, just something a little bit of an
> upgrade from origional equipment. I'll be
> working with a friend of mine who's done
> lots of engine rebuilds and the like but
> never struts. How hard is this type of work?
> What type of special tools would we need?

First, get yourself a good shop manual, it explains in detail how to assemble and disassemble everything. As to upgrades, it depends on what you want to do with the car. I would suggest, for street use, urethane bushings, they last longer and perform better than stock with not too much harshness. While you're at it you should look at the steering rack bushings and steering column coupler. For shocks, KYB makes a good, stiff street cartridge, but if you want to more performance, Tokicko Illuminas are adjustable. Then there's Konis for a rock hard ride. Then there's springs. Motorsport sells a good set of +/- 1 lower, stiffer set. The list goes on and on....

 

[Unknown User]

Here's what I had planned to get:
4 struts (possibly KYB, still deciding)
Urethane steering coupler
Steering rack bushings
front sway bar bushings
front and rear control arm bushings
tension rod bushings
differential mustache bar bushings
--------

Notice anything that's missing or unnecessary? I don't want to lower the car, and I want a decent ride for my daily commute.

Thanks,
-Brian

> First, get yourself a good shop manual, it
> explains in detail how to assemble and
> disassemble everything. As to upgrades, it
> depends on what you want to do with the car.
> I would suggest, for street use, urethane
> bushings, they last longer and perform
> better than stock with not too much
> harshness. While you're at it you should
> look at the steering rack bushings and
> steering column coupler. For shocks, KYB
> makes a good, stiff street cartridge, but if
> you want to more performance, Tokicko
> Illuminas are adjustable. Then there's Konis
> for a rock hard ride. Then there's springs.
> Motorsport sells a good set of +/- 1
> lower, stiffer set. The list goes on and
> on....

 

[Unknown User]

I just completed a strut and spring install on my 72 last Friday.
I also replaced both ball-joints, something I wouldn't have
Done without a manual.
The only problem I had was removing the cartridge-retainer nuts.
I brought both front assemblies to a local shop, and they complied with
a huge plumbers wrench.
Eibach springs and Tokico (non-adj.) struts used.
I would skip the steering coupler and mustache bar bushings and upgrade to the Tokico's.

Manny240z

 

[Ron]

KYB GR2's are pretty good struts. When you start pullin the suspension apart
you might need additional parts. (hows the brakes/lines?). Check the ball joints
and tierods for play and worn out/cracked boots.
FYI, I used to use PBB rust penetrator but found out that DuraLube rust spray
seems to be a little better; same rust break down qualities but it has some oil
stuff mixed in that seems to make bolts/nuts undo easier.
I used a 18in RIGID pipe wrench on gland nuts and it worked great. You might
get lucky on nut removal; sometimes the cartridges leak oil on the nut and this
could prehibit rust build up on nut/strut housing.

 

[Unknown User]

My 2 cents

> Here's what I had planned to get:
> 4 struts (possibly KYB, still deciding)
> Urethane steering coupler
> Steering rack bushings
> front sway bar bushings
> front and rear control arm bushings
> tension rod bushings
> differential mustache bar bushings
> --------

I did all of the above and more on my 72.
I would suggest also replacing the rubber differential mount with a solid one from MSA as long as you are changing the mustache bar bushings.
As for the rear control arm bushings, they will probably need to be pressed out at a machine shop. Mine were in good shape so I just left them there. A friend tried to pound them out and bent his control arm. Other than that I don't remember any major difficulties.