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1016 Views 7 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  MX500
you know how most everyone here is just in love with their zcar. there is this emotional attachment that we all have. well i broke down and took my 76 to a mechanic monday. sure it had sat up for a while but even with i was backing it up to get on the trailer is started, putted for 4-5 minutes and then died. well the mechanic is realling trying to talk me out of fixing this thing. i thought it was getting too much gas b/c of the flooding of the plugs. in addition to the vac. leaks. well, he says just by briefly looking at it that in fact it is not getting hardly any gas.

so now i am torn. give up on this thing based on this guys opinion or go somewhere else. ****, i could always have a go at it.
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Keep it and learn to fix it yourself. These are really easy to work on and most modern day mechanics don't really know how to do trouble shooting on older cars. All they do now is hook up a tester to find the issue.

Start of with doing a complete tune up and run some seafoam through the system to clean out all the built up carbon. Then drop the gas tank and have it cleaned and sealed, as well with the fuel lines.

After that clean all of the connectors and plugs as well as check all your grounds and seal all the Vacuum leaks.

Read the sticky at the top of the screen as well to prevent from getting flamed. Also it is wise to post a pic or two of the car as well ;)
Your car sounds a lot like my 240z when I was first trying to get it running. It would start, run for a while then die. After some tinkering with the carbs it would idle great and run great for a few minutes then cut out and die. I even bought Ztherapy SU's and it idled perfect all day in the garage even when it was below 30 degrees outside but as soon as I took it out on the road it would cut out and stall under load. So I finally dropped the gas tank and what do you think I found.... guess.... a MOUSE NEST IN THE F#$*ing gas tank!!!!!

So I took the gas tank to a radiator shop to have it thouroghly cleaned and it gave me daily driver reliability for over a year after that, and would still be if I wasn't a speed junky and decided to do a turbo swap which I am currently working on. Even stock, although the car wasn't a stupidly fast, it was a **** of a lot of fun to drive. A car that weighs less than 3000 lbs with an independent rear suspension and good brakes is almost guaranteed to put a smile on your face through twisty back roads, which are plentiful where I live. And even cruising around town, its fun to have a unique and sexy looking sports car as your ride. It will get you laid if your single, trust me on that :)

But the story really starts over a year before that. I bought my 240z in September of 2008, and the first time I attempted to drive it wasn't until November of 2009. I spent that year repairing all the rust in the floor boards and frame rails, replacing suspension bushings and struts, springs, and rebuilding the braikes. Not to mention sorting out the numerous electrical issues the previous owner (more commonly referred to as a PO around here) had left me.

The moral of the story is that it takes patience and dedication to take a Z that is in rough condition and make it street worthy again. Your problem sounds like simple case of cleaning all the electrical connections and replacing all the soft rubber lines for fuel and vacuum. I would go ahead and replace the fuel pump and pressure regulator and blow compressed air through all the hard fuel lines since fuel delivery seems to be your problem. If problems persist, it may be time to drop the tank which is admittedly a messy job but not that complicated, and inspect it for rust causing blockage or if your as lucky as me a mouse nest. The end reward will far outweigh the time and effort you put into the restoration of your Z.

My opinion of your mechanic is that he simply doesn't understand the pre-OBD II FI system on early Z's and doesn't want to admit it or fool with it so he is taking the easy way out by convincing you to sell it. It's really not a very complicated system at all. I am not a trained mechanic in any way, just a car guy who has experience with racecars (meaning that I have the ability to make things work no matter what, because when it comes down to winning or losing a championship, failure is not an option). When I bought my 1983 280zx turbo that I parted out for my turbo swap, it would not start at all, and the PO had really screwed up the wiring. I downloaded the FSM and had it running beautifully within two weeks. The point being that some research and determination will allow you to get your Z running proudly once again.

So if you think you got what it takes, don't sell it, put some time and effort into it. If not, sell it to someone who will.
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Re: depression or "Don't let 'em squeeze you into a Deawoooo!"

"Don't let 'em talk you out of living in the Z lime light!" You prolly have a basic lack of the 30-34psi fuel pressure to keep it running right. There is an inlet "screen/filter" hidden in the fuel pump intake, a 14mm will be your friend. Norm K.
Take it someplace else. The guy is an incompetent boob if he can't diagnose the EFI.
A few hours reading and some cheap tools you can probably diagnose it yourself as stated.

I hold little confidence for 'independent garages' where 'imports' are not heavily in evidence. Even less when it's one that is 33+ years old.
How old are you? What are your interests? What is your mechanical abilities? What did you make in math (why? B/c your math grade is directly proportional to your problem solving ability....or your work ethic)? Do you have other means of transportation?

If all those answers are positive Then I say start disassembling the engine and restore each piece. You'll be surprised what you find as you scrape away the crud and a clean sparkly engine runs better :)
Download the EFI bible over at www.xenons30.com and give it a good read. You'll learn quickly how simple this early EFI is and be able to troubleshoot it too. Assuming it ran fine when parked then you just need to do the basics like replacing the old vacuum lines, drain out the old gas and put in fresh gas, install a new gas filter and maybe replace those old spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It will likely fire up and run fine then. These old cars are not a mystery. Learn, live, enjoy.
Check the fuel pressure, then check the fuel flow, make sure the filter is not plugged. Make sure it holds fuel pressure for over a few minutes after turning off the engine, if it doesn't hold pressure, you have one or more leaky injector. The car is totally fixable, replace your mechanic, not your car.
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