defrost/rear wiper

Jaket, remember the discussion we've had about kids today being spoonfed the answers so much they can no longer think for themselves. This is a very simple logic pattern.

Let's take any gizmo that runs off of 12v. Check that it is getting 12v with your multi meter, preferably using the ground already there. If you have 12v, then it has to be the gizmo. For grins, run a jumper wire from the battery and see it it works. If not remove the gizmo and rebuild. I had a situation with a Mazda a few years back where the tail lights would not light up, yet I had 12v to the light. The current was breaking down at the solder connection at the switch. While it read 12v at the light, when the current was drawn it stopped. I had to resolder the cracked solder joints...or get a $300 switch.

If the gizmo works but there is no 12v, then back trace the wire. Do you have 12 at the appropriate fuse? If no then check the fuse. If yes then you know the break is somewhere b/t the fuse and the gizmo.

You have 12v at the fuse, go to the switch. Do you have 12v at the switch? If yes then check if you have 12v at the output. If no, then you figure it is the switch. If yes, then there has to be a break in the wire to the gizmo ...or...perhaps there is a relay b/t the switch and the gizmo.

Ahhh, but what if you have the FSM? You could run down the wiring through the colored schematics, though those things are a 3 page foldout and don't hold up too well on a computer. I posted them on xenon a while back. You could down load them and have kinko's print them out.

Open hatch all wires are there. under headliner is plug. Someone might have cut the wires to take hatch off at one time.

http://www.spooledupracing.com/download/Manuals/FSM/Nissan/1983 280zx/