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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Okay here is a crazy thought I had....Cold air intake is best..On my SU's the water lines are gone...what if you could run A/C coolant through these instead of hot water! Someone mentioned using the A/C for cold air induction but think if you could run a closed system with such a short amount to have to travel ( less power drag on the engine.).... now if you could just have it stay as cold as possible the aluminum on the intake would stay cold and the air would'nt get a chance to heat from the rising exhaust temps....

What do you think??


Z ya later
Mike K
 

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In theory it sounds good !

My only concern would be at what point would you benefit. I see frost forming on A/C lines, it would be possible that you could get frost in the venturis. I know in plane you have to add carb heat to stop carb ice which is an altitude issue in a plane but you might end up having to add heat to your carbs to stop them from icing up. Might be worth a try though. They laughed at Mickey Mantle when he wanted to be a ballplayer!
 

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Hey I think I read you can get 1hp for each degree drop in temp(I hope Farenheit). On the other hand you get power loss from the compressor. The freon must be under pressure, and it only gets cold after air is blown by it transfer heat. Then it has to be condensed and all to do it again. Now if you already have a/c and you route the line through the manifold as part of the a/c circuit you may get enough to offset the power loss of turning on the a/c, but not until the a/c has been on long enough to start cooling the car, and it will most likely reduce the efficiency of your a/c since you will be in effect adding heat to it through the manifold.
 

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Almost all a/c components are aluminum and rubber today. My old 280 had copper tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually I meant using a A/C sytem for the sole purpose of the SU's only...
If you want the inside of the car cooler drive faster!!! :~)

Z ya later
Mike K
 

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Don't want to throw a spanner in the works but you actually want the intake manifold to be hot to help with fuel atomisation. Yes, you want the air to be as cold as possible on entry to the carbs, but once you introduce fuel, you want it to atomise (mix with the air) as finely and as thoroughly as possible for the best burn. Those lines are there as when the weather cools off the fuel doesn't atomise very well until the engine compartment warms up a little. I'm leaving mine on (but plumbing them with some cool looking AN fittings on N36 intake and some steel braided hose).

Just so you don't think I am raining on the parade, here is an even crazier idea. Why not run fuel through the lines instead and just have a little hose at the front one to go to the front carb float bowl. This would give you one of the most discreetly plumbed fuel systems ever! OK so the exhaust manifold heat would cause the fuel to bubble in the pipe but... oh well. Back to the braided hose.
 

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It's not crazy, MK...but how about using the whole A/C system???...plumb the air flow thru the factory A/C ( re-mounted in or near the engine compartment) so the AIR to the carbs is actually A/C air...might need some metal fabrication... :eek:)
 

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sounds interesting

Sounds interesting to me, although my a/c unit has long since been pulled, I wonder if the gains (cold air induction) would out weigh the power loss at the pulley? Well, you got my ear.
Please let us know what you find.
 
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