1300 to fix rusted body...quoted 4500 to paint so i just took the 1300 to fix body and im going to paint myself. check my progress pics.
Complete Z Car Paint Estimate
I know this is a well discussed thread, but I'd like to know how much people have paid for restoration quality paint / body work on their Z's. My 240Z is in good shape, almost no rust, but had body work done in the past. It's a nice yellow color, but was originally orange. My goal would be close to a show car job with stripping down to bare metal, removing any old poorly done patches and repainting the car the original color. Some shops would use a rotisserie and others would just place the car on jacks. I would provide the car as a roller (no interior, no engine, most major items removed). Nearly every estimate has been 100 to 150 hours plus materials. In Colorado, labor rates are $40 to $48 an hour in rural areas. Materials may run close to $1,000 if you include the possible cost of some rust repair panels. That yields an estimate of $5,000 on the low end up to $8,200 on the high end.
I've seen much lower paint estimates, but I haven't seen what people pay for labor or estimates on hours. I recall having one incredible paint job on a car in Roanoke Virginia that cost me only $2,500.
Perhaps MTV can drop by and 'Pimp My Ride' ...
I've seen much lower paint estimates, but I haven't seen what people pay for labor or estimates on hours. I recall having one incredible paint job on a car in Roanoke Virginia that cost me only $2,500.
Perhaps MTV can drop by and 'Pimp My Ride' ...
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With that kind of quote, Im thinking not many owner get "restoration quality" jobs, WOW , Im sure there worth the costs but way over my head.
Charles
Charles
that kind of job is very labor intensive and that price is probally what your gonna find. Kinda crazy to think a paint job could cost that much, but you get what you pay for. Best bet would be do all the body work yourself then have it painted. I know I'll be doing my own as well and painting is the easy part of the job. The hard part is all the prep work to get that new paint job to look the best. Anything not done correctly will stick out like a sore thumb with fresh paint on it.........
see, i did the oposite. for 1300 he fixed all the rust and put a yellow for primer on the car that is THICK!!! he sanded it down, and did another coat, then the whole car was ready. all i have to do is wetsand and paint.
It will look like crap if you do it yourself and have never painted a car before. Maaco or Earl Sheibs $200 special will be better than a botched garage job. Unlike bubbleguinea , I have painted cars. If you like the car and say that you want a show finish, DO NOT do it in your garage.
-Mark
-Mark
I also wanted a new clear coat paint job to shine, but no way
had the budget for a complete strip and repaint job, most estimates
were in the 5-6,000 range.
So had a good local shop repair the dents and dings, sand the
existing paint that was sticking quite well ( no rust ), and he also
removed all doors and hatches and did the jams and under hood...
for $1,200 . Even then applied black undercoating in wheelwells
where the overspray had been , and removed the door jam
name plate, clear coated it and replaced it !
Concourse quality for gold medalion, no, but real nice to see a
shine on a 30 year old car . Ya get what you can afford and what
make common sense.
Z-On ...
had the budget for a complete strip and repaint job, most estimates
were in the 5-6,000 range.
So had a good local shop repair the dents and dings, sand the
existing paint that was sticking quite well ( no rust ), and he also
removed all doors and hatches and did the jams and under hood...
for $1,200 . Even then applied black undercoating in wheelwells
where the overspray had been , and removed the door jam
name plate, clear coated it and replaced it !
Concourse quality for gold medalion, no, but real nice to see a
shine on a 30 year old car . Ya get what you can afford and what
make common sense.
Z-On ...
The key phrase:
"how much people have paid for restoration quality paint / body work on their Z's."
"Restoration Quality"
That does not mean "good paint for a daily driver"
That does not mean "good paint for a weekend cruiser"
or even "good enough for most shows"
A "Restoration Quality" paint job will run you in the area of funds you listed, between 5 and 8K. Anything more than that, and you are into custom stuff for high-end shows. Generally the paint and bodywork can be accomplished on a straight rust free vehicle for that price.
Rust, dents, frame repair, all adds up. Then you still have to reassemble it!
The REstoration Program Nissan Ran had an average outlay of around $7K for the body work and paint in each of their vehicles.
"how much people have paid for restoration quality paint / body work on their Z's."
"Restoration Quality"
That does not mean "good paint for a daily driver"
That does not mean "good paint for a weekend cruiser"
or even "good enough for most shows"
A "Restoration Quality" paint job will run you in the area of funds you listed, between 5 and 8K. Anything more than that, and you are into custom stuff for high-end shows. Generally the paint and bodywork can be accomplished on a straight rust free vehicle for that price.
Rust, dents, frame repair, all adds up. Then you still have to reassemble it!
The REstoration Program Nissan Ran had an average outlay of around $7K for the body work and paint in each of their vehicles.
HAW HAW HAW!
"all i have to do is wetsand and paint"
Labor costs $50 an hour at most shops. When you wetblock a car, even if you think the primer is 'thick enough" what do you do when that niggling high spot is revealed and nicks through to bare metal?
Sure nuff, you work it, respray it all again THINK, and start over.
"All" I have to do.... he he he!
That's funny!
"all i have to do is wetsand and paint"
Labor costs $50 an hour at most shops. When you wetblock a car, even if you think the primer is 'thick enough" what do you do when that niggling high spot is revealed and nicks through to bare metal?
Sure nuff, you work it, respray it all again THINK, and start over.
"All" I have to do.... he he he!
That's funny!
We are doing a "restoration quality" job on a 240 right now. Had to weld in new rear quarter lips and some lower front fender rust repair. Also got a new hood and all new rubber. We're also putting the car back together, pulled the engine to paint the engine bay etc. Think he's going to be at close to 10K by the time we are done. Doing real high quality paint and body work is NOT cheap.
OTOH I'm doing my own body work, buying the paint at cost (base/clear urathane) and paying the painter to shoot it on the weekend and by the time I figure the materials I've used etc, I'll have a grand in it doing it that way. A good street paint job that will hold up requires high quality paint. If it's painted a lighter color, you can get away with "less high quality" body work. I'm going real light metalic blue or white!
OTOH I'm doing my own body work, buying the paint at cost (base/clear urathane) and paying the painter to shoot it on the weekend and by the time I figure the materials I've used etc, I'll have a grand in it doing it that way. A good street paint job that will hold up requires high quality paint. If it's painted a lighter color, you can get away with "less high quality" body work. I'm going real light metalic blue or white!
Did you already fog on a guide coat and resand?
i havent even picked up the paint. i have to go get it. its ready....allready paid for it though. i have the reducer, hardner, clear coat, and something else i need, i forgot the name...
The "guide" coat is just a way to get the finish smooth. Just a rattle-can of black enamel to "fog" the primer to show low spots when you sand it off. Try it, it helps you to see a lot of imperfections before you think about the paint. It will show if your sanding is done or not.
Mark
Mark
In the process of getting our '78 280Z repainted the original Datsun #611 for $2725. This includes some body work, paint, weatherstripping replacement (supplied by me) and new windshield. $325 of that price is the glassman's fee including a new windshield. The body shop has removed the doors, hatch and hood. They will paint everything up to the engine bay. They are doing a very through job. Paint is Dupont BC/CC and will include cutting & buffing. Looking forward to the final results. I have supplied the weatherstrip kit, new OEM emblems, new H4 headlights, new under stickers, new OEM rubber bumper ends & bumpers, new OEM exterior mirror, & rechromed T/L trim. Link to pics of the progress.
http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5664
Post Edited (Sep 29, 12:30pm)
http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=5664
Post Edited (Sep 29, 12:30pm)
Yeah,I have helped my brother who is a professional auto painter,I never knew how many high and low spots there was in primer before he showed me the fogging trick.really,really makes a huge difference.DEFINATELY recomended
nice ride!!where did you get your center caps for your wheels????I know someone who needs a full set.Email me back at [email protected]. thanks.
jmark - is your shop local or a chain? Sounds like you're getting a good deal.
hwk60 - that's a nice looking spray paint job! Congrats, and if you lived in my area you'd get my business.
hwk60 - that's a nice looking spray paint job! Congrats, and if you lived in my area you'd get my business.
It is a local shop. The car didn't have much rust or body work. They do mostly crash work. It is taking a while but they are working me in as they have time.
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