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I am currently looking into doing a distributorless, coil on plug conversion on my L24 engine. I'd to gain an understanding of what parts were used in the conversion. Are there any fabrication needs or any other "gotchas" I may not be aware of? I would think most if not all L-series, 6-cyl engines would fare similarly with compatibility.

There is no clear how-to online. The goal is to end up with a setup with reliability and quality. Part/model numbers are certainly appreciated.

Here are some of the links I've come acorss in researching -
 

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I'm using the Ford coils that Bryan Blake references and I've seen his L-series Ford coil bracket in person - it's very nice. I'm using a Megasquirt MS3X ECU, a Nissan ignitor to drive the Ford coils, and the DIYAutotune optical wheel in my L28ET distributor. But, my engine is EFI (Nissan ECCS) to begin with.

First you need to decide how you want to drive the coil packs you want to use. There are many different ways to do COP but nearly all require an ECU (and $$$)… I'll be puzzled why you want to go this route on a carbureted engine.

You'll probably find the most information on this stuff at https://forums.hybridz.org/

(Okay now a little more: If you want full sequential you'll need both a cam and crank signal to "tell" the controller when the engine is approaching TDC on the compression stroke. You can do a wasted spark ignition with only a crank signal. Wasted spark will fire 2 coils at the same time since it doesn't "know" if the engine is approaching TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke. You still need a "spark controller". I think most people use a toothed wheel on the damper pulley for crank signal (toothed wheel and a sensor to "count" the teeth - a missing tooth verifies position). The L-series doesn't have a very convenient way to mount a cam sensor necessary for full sequential COP. Though many people have found ways other than using the L28ET distributor body and drive spindle. The '82-'83 280ZX Turbo (L28ET) uses an optical wheel inside the distributor body to provide crank and cam signal to it's ECU. Since it mounts on any L-series engine, it's pretty simple to use - costs money and is getting harder to find, but it's fairly simple. There are also other similar C.A.S. units that can be adapted (but that's not generally an option for a DIY install - you need skill and/or a machine shop and/or $$). And, that's just a start...)
 

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I went with an Electromotive TEC-GT on my autocross car. I originally had it set for ignition only as I was running triple Mikunis. I have since changed to Borla/TWM injection, having issues with the carbs in fast cornering conditions. Fuel injection is "The Boss"!
I had to add a crank trigger toothed wheel to the damper pulley, but was able to get rid of the distributor.
The system wasn't cheap, but it offers me very reliable performance in all weather conditions.


http://www.lektronics.com/gallery/index.php/F-Prepared-240Z/DSC00710
http://www.lektronics.com/gallery/index.php/F-Prepared-240Z/DSC00773
 

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Pick up a z32 cas/ignitor and graft it onto the L28ET distributor shaft. Use the z32 ecu to control coilpacks and injectors. I did that a few lifetimes ago. Megasquirt is a much easier option.
 

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Bumping this thread as I am also interested. Trying to plan a L28E turbo conversion, and I would also like to do coil on plug ignition through megasquirt.

Is there a downside to using a "wasted spark" setup? From what I have read here and at hybridz, it sounds like a lot of manufacturers use wasted spark in OEM applications.

Is having megasquirt 3 recommended for doing this distributorless, coil on plug conversion? On DIY autotue (Using DIYAutoTune.com's Nissan Optical Trigger Discs - DIYAutoTune.com), it says you can use megasquirt 2 by modifying it, and then it says to install the spark output of your choice, recommending BIP373 or QuadSpark output mods as two possible choices, and then it says OEM Nissan SR20DET ignition modules are a third choice but require 5 volt logic level ignition outputs.These spark output options that are described, are they the "ignitor" that you are using? And if so, can you provide more detail or pics of how you connect this part to your coils on plugs? Would you be able to use BIP373, quadspark, or the SR20DET ignition modules to drive the ford coils on plugs like bryan blake?
 

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An SR20 ignition module will give you 4 possible outputs to drive Ford coils. I use a Nissan ignition module from a early 90's J30, Z32 (300ZX), or Maxima SE. These all have 6 cylinder twin cam engines and they are all COP. So I have full sequential - not using wasted spark. You could possibly use the SR20 module or ANY other 4 cylinder Nissan module and use 3 of the inputs/outputs for wasted spark. I've never done this so I'm not absolutely sure that the 4 cylinder ignition module can drive two coils from each output. If there is a downside to wasted spark, it would be that the plugs are sparking twice as much. Who cares? Plugs last nearly forever these days. The ignition module is also "working" twice as hard, but how often do they fail?

You can add the 5 volt logic level circuitry fairly easily to either a MS2 3.0 or MS3 3.0 main board proto area. It requires some discrete components that you can get from Digikey or other electronics supplier. You'll need to be fairly handy with "breadboard" type wiring to be successful. I've done it to a couple of MS mainboards. It's MUCH simpler use MS3X.

The Nissan ignition modules are the "ignitor" for "dumb" coils. They need the "5 volt logic level outputs" from the ECU as inputs and they output a signal suitable for firing the coil. Easy to wire if you're using a 6 port module. If you're using a 4 port you would just wire 3 to the ECU spark output and use the 3 outputs of the module with each one sparking two cylinders (1&6, 2&5, 3&4). That's if the 4 cylinder modules will drive 2 coils and still provide proper spark.
 
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An SR20 ignition module will give you 4 possible outputs to drive Ford coils. I use a Nissan ignition module from a early 90's J30, Z32 (300ZX), or Maxima SE. These all have 6 cylinder twin cam engines and they are all COP. So I have full sequential - not using wasted spark. You could possibly use the SR20 module or ANY other 4 cylinder Nissan module and use 3 of the inputs/outputs for wasted spark. I've never done this so I'm not absolutely sure that the 4 cylinder ignition module can drive two coils from each output. If there is a downside to wasted spark, it would be that the plugs are sparking twice as much. Who cares? Plugs last nearly forever these days. The ignition module is also "working" twice as hard, but how often do they fail?

You can add the 5 volt logic level circuitry fairly easily to either a MS2 3.0 or MS3 3.0 main board proto area. It requires some discrete components that you can get from Digikey or other electronics supplier. You'll need to be fairly handy with "breadboard" type wiring to be successful. I've done it to a couple of MS mainboards. It's MUCH simpler use MS3X.

The Nissan ignition modules are the "ignitor" for "dumb" coils. They need the "5 volt logic level outputs" from the ECU as inputs and they output a signal suitable for firing the coil. Easy to wire if you're using a 6 port module. If you're using a 4 port you would just wire 3 to the ECU spark output and use the 3 outputs of the module with each one sparking two cylinders (1&6, 2&5, 3&4). That's if the 4 cylinder modules will drive 2 coils and still provide proper spark.
Do you have more details on your sequential setup (build thread, or pictures)? I'd be interested to see more about your setup.
 

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Nothing magical about my setup. MS3X expansion has the circuitry for output to coils (5 volt logic level) and injectors (I use high impedance 310cc injectors - anyone who tells you that you need 440cc Supra injectors on a basically stock L28ET is a moron.) On the spark side all you need is a smart coil (like a GM truck coil) or a use an "ignitor" (ignition control module) and a dumb coil... My setup is pretty much listed above. The Nissan ignition module from the early 90's drives Ford V8 coils very nicely. Ford coils are stupid cheap and available everywhere. I use the curved boot coil and you can make a simple bracket that hangs off the valve cover or buy one from Brian Blake - Blake Machine Co., Phoenix, Arizona. I've done both.
 
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