Code 34 question. Zazu and all you Z gurus....

881 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by vigman, Nov 28, 2010

generzx

Discussion Starter · Nov 26, 2010

Good afternoon everyone!
I've been having this issue with my Z for a while...she is just running like crap lately, missing and lacking power. After several months of not being able to check for codes.....I finally had some free time today and did it. The ECU read "Code 34". I quickly found out that the culprit could be a bad "detonation/knock sensor". I was extremely happy to find out that my problem could be fixed by just changing a sensor. After doing my research...I'm aware now that this is probably the worst sensor that you could have change due to the fact that is situated behind the engine on the Z32!!! Go figure!

Anyways...my question to you all is about this video about relocating the sensor....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZoOcHtv-LI

Zazu and all you guys...is this pretty accurate and have you guys done it??

As usual....thank you guys for the help.

generzx

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1 - 19 of 19 Posts

salvadoran300zx

· #2 · Nov 26, 2010

use the resistor instead...

either way the knock sensor is basically useless... just make sure everything is running well and you should have no problems EVER

salvadoran300zx

· #3 · Nov 26, 2010

as a matter of fact, this thread could help

http://www.zcar.com/90-96_tech_discussion_forum/knock_sensor_894773.0.html

generzx

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 27, 2010

Thanks for the help Salvadoran300zx.
As a matter of fact I did find the thread that you mentioned....is just that # 1....I was having a difficult time understanding what the guy was saying, and #2.....I really have no clue how to "splice" a cable or what is a "transistor" that you are talking about. I'm sorry...I've read it over and over but I'm still a bit confused. Has anyone posted a tread on how to do this with pics??? Sorry again I'm just a real moron when it comes down to electrical work

) I am hoping that this works though. The car is really not drivable like this!!! It runs like crap!!

Thanks!

vigman

· #5 · Nov 27, 2010

300ZX Knock sensor bypass

http://www.mdsmarthome.com/z/Z Tech/Z Tech PDF's/Bypass a Defective Detonation Sensor.pdf
Mike

generzx

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 27, 2010

Thanks Mike....excellent write up! Im just a bit concerned with the....."If you decide to bypass the detonation sensor, your ECU won't be able to listen for detonation anymore and that could cause the destruction of your engine. You've been warned!!!"........part. Those are some scary words!! lol!

I wonder if anyone has done it on a TT without problems. Anyways....I think I have no other choices here. I really can't have the dealer charge me $3000 dollars for bringing the engine down and replacing that sucker. I will let you guys know how it turns out.

Thanks!

generzx

Luminar

· #7 · Nov 27, 2010

John, just bypass it. Zaddict bypassed his a while back, countless others have theirs bypassed. The knock sensor is useless over like 2500-3k rpm anyway because the sensor cant distinguish between engine noise and actual knock.

generzx

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 27, 2010

Alright Tim I will do that. Thanks for the info. God I wish you were down here in Florida still....we could fix it together over a nice BBQ at my house

)

Later
generzx

vigman

· #9 · Nov 27, 2010

I have done it... the trick is you have to LISTEN for ping & knock... then back the timing out ( less advance ) a degree or 2...
I would like to go back & have a GOOD sensor in the correct place.... but not a SUPER priority in my book.

Mike

Luminar

· #10 · Nov 27, 2010

stock VG30s only get one maybe 2 chances with a legitimate "ping" before cracking ring lands. GG cast pistons!

So even with a functioning knock sensor, its going to be too late anyway.

Luminar

· #11 · Nov 27, 2010

Oh also John, I'll be home (in north palm) for new years. My cell's still the same, is yours? I'll give you a shout

generzx

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 27, 2010

Yes Tim I have the same number. Call me.

generzx

z-addict

· #13 · Nov 28, 2010

John, do as others have suggested and bypass, the way you drive, you need not worry about detonation

generzx

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 28, 2010

Dave....good one!! Lmao!!!!!!!!!!

Is funny you said that....everyone at work tells me the same thing when I drive the fire truck! I could be going with lights and sirens and still have old ladies driving past us!!! lol!!!

Another question Dave & Tim....can this code 34 be the cause of my rough idle and lack of power? I just hope that there is not and underlying problem there. Is just hard to believe that a bad sensor would make the car run soo erraticly.

Thanks guys!

generzx

Luminar

· #15 · Nov 28, 2010

its probably something else on top of the 34, just chcek your vacuum lines for the rough idle. the lack of power can be your det sensor, you're still running pretty much entirely stock right?

vigman

· #16 · Nov 28, 2010

When I had my 34.... it idled smooth but had no " oomph " like a plugged cat..
Mike

salvadoran300zx

· #17 · Nov 28, 2010

Vigman said:
like a plugged cat..

???

generzx

Discussion Starter · #18 · Nov 28, 2010

Yes Tim....stock. All I have is pop-charger and cat backs. Everything else is stock. I hope is not the injectors

(

We will see. I will keep you guys updated.

generzx

vigman

· #19 · Nov 28, 2010

Like a plugged catalytic converter....

Mike

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

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