In order to assess that ....I cannot see how much slop ( which would indicate possible preload ) ...
So I dunno... BUT each assy needs to be within spec before moving onto the next.....
This was a swap... so right now all bets are off...your behavior ( as pre description ) states that your engage / disengage point is at the top of the pedal.
This IMPLYS your master is not bleeding back ( at least to me ).
So here's 2 tests..
1) if you have an assistant under the hood with a rag... and pop the master cylinder cap.... When you ( quickly ) step on the clutch, and release...
Does the assistant see a stream of fluid leaping out of the rez?
2 Assistant in car you under car...
Can you wiggle the piviot arm or is the slave pushing down hard... it should barely be contacting the pivot and easily be pushed back ( so the slave compresses )
Next, when the assistant steps on the clutch, how far does the slave move?
Well I got impatient and went out to try and determine if the return hole is working or not.
I removed the cap for the master and placed a dry tissue over the top. I sat inside the cabin and at first slowly pressed in the clutch. Then I violently masted it a couple times. I went back out and the tissue was completely dry.
Does the fluid return with enough force to spray back up and hit the tissue?
I still wasn't satisfied with that, so I set up my cell phone to try and record video in the cylinder as I pushed the pedal. That actually worked very well. Take a look:
Okay, I woke up sleeping beauty and she agreed to come outside quick and help me with this. I turkey basted the fluid down to the min line and she romped on the clutch. I didn't see anything at all. No fluid came flying at my face, no bubbles, no wave of DOT 3 brake fluid rippling inside the reservoir.
We'll do test 2 tomorrow, but it looks like test 1 already showed a failure.
Is there a way I can clean the return hole? I don't even know where it is.
Alright, I performed the second test today with the help of Amber.
I was NOT able to budge the lever the slave pushes on. I even got a crow bar and tried prying it against the bell housing a little bit and it didn't budge. The slave was putting way too much force on it.
And I couldn't rotate the slave rod with my fingers either.
I took a picture of how the slave rod extends normally and with the clutch pedal fully down. There is only a half inch of movement. See for yourself below. Does this safely conclude that the fluid is not returning to the master?
My back up light does not work. Many years ago I had the transmission down to do a clutch job. Determining that the switch was bad (jumper the plug) I replaced it. However I replaced it with an aftermarket switch and it does not work. It needs more "throw" in order to engage the circuit. The Z...
Hi everyone, I have converted my 1990 300zx 2+2 to LEDs (mostly). There have been a couple issues since however.
#1 . The red 'Lights' warning light on the dash comes on when braking. I'll try to post a pic.
#2 . The trunk light flashes quickly when closing the driver's side door.
#3 . The...
I have owned my Z for 15+ years, and this is a first time she has left me stranded. Well there was that time the starter fell out of the transmission but I pushed started it and drove it home.
Cold last night. This morning the temp was 10 when I got into the car. Didn't drive it all this...