ZCar Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone that sees this I need a little help figuring out my headache before before I do this job again. Much appreciated in advance.
So I’ve owned my 12’ Nissan 370Z for about a year now bought used with 70k miles; around 6 months after the Csc throwout bearing went out on me. I took the the transmission out I cleaned up the bell housing replaced the CSC TOB with a jwt upgraded aluminum Csc from Z1 motorsports (the damaged TOB was the same one )also replace the csc tube. Replaced the clutch and flywheel with a solid fly wheel LUK brand ( the original was a dual mass flywheel ( Luk Nissan labeled )replaced the pilot bearing, torqued flywheel back to 65 ft lbs ( habor freight 1/2”torque wrench and because I couldn’t get 11ft lbs on the pressure plate I snapped a bolt, was able to get the broken off threads out, and ordered all new bolts from Nissan, I just tightened as evenly as I could without breaking the bolts and continued putting it together) , used some grease on the bearing, replaced the clutch line and master cylinder(adjustments???) replaced transmission fluid and clutch fluid and bled system. Once I had everything put together and started it right up I hear this chatter noise best sound I could describe it to ismaybe a rock in a tin can rolling around. Happens at idle and In low gear then goes away at high rpms also when the clutch is pressed down. I’ve also noticed a slip whenever I try to get on it feels like it struggles to get past 5-6k. It didn’t do that kind of stuff before. The hardest part was putting the transmission back in. My plan of attack once I get everything situated is replace the flywheel with a new dual mass flywheel again. And I bought a digital 3/8th torque wrench from matco to do the job right. Also another clutch pad and check the TOB, pilot bearing and input shaft.

Questions?? Concerns?? Do I sound like I’m going down the right path??? Tips or tricks?? I’m a body man at a shop but still self taught on most mechanical parts, I’m pretty knowledgeable in my career but do need help from time to time. Can anyone help solve the issue or have experienced something similar in these cars? Thanks…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey everyone that sees this I need a little help figuring out my headache before before I do this job again. Much appreciated in advance.
So I’ve owned my 12’ Nissan 370Z for about a year now bought used with 70k miles; around 6 months after the Csc throwout bearing went out on me. I took the the transmission out I cleaned up the bell housing replaced the CSC TOB with a jwt upgraded aluminum Csc from Z1 motorsports (the damaged TOB was the same one )also replace the csc tube. Replaced the clutch and flywheel with a solid fly wheel LUK brand ( the original was a dual mass flywheel ( Luk Nissan labeled )replaced the pilot bearing, torqued flywheel back to 65 ft lbs ( habor freight 1/2”torque wrench and because I couldn’t get 11ft lbs on the pressure plate I snapped a bolt, was able to get the broken off threads out, and ordered all new bolts from Nissan, I just tightened as evenly as I could without breaking the bolts and continued putting it together) , used some grease on the bearing, replaced the clutch line and master cylinder(adjustments???) replaced transmission fluid and clutch fluid and bled system. Once I had everything put together and started it right up I hear this chatter noise best sound I could describe it to ismaybe a rock in a tin can rolling around. Happens at idle and In low gear then goes away at high rpms also when the clutch is pressed down. I’ve also noticed a slip whenever I try to get on it feels like it struggles to get past 5-6k. It didn’t do that kind of stuff before. The hardest part was putting the transmission back in. My plan of attack once I get everything situated is replace the flywheel with a new dual mass flywheel again. And I bought a digital 3/8th torque wrench from matco to do the job right. Also another clutch pad and check the TOB, pilot bearing and input shaft.

Questions?? Concerns?? Do I sound like I’m going down the right path??? Tips or tricks?? I’m a body man at a shop but still self taught on most mechanical parts, I’m pretty knowledgeable in my career but do need help from time to time. Can anyone help solve the issue or have experienced something similar in these cars? Thanks…
also recorded noise if you would like to stay connected dm for Snapchat
 

·
Administrator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
2,566 Posts
My thoughts are to get the right flywheel and pressure plate in there, then get the assembly back together carefully, and torque as per the manual. Nothing else assures you that it will last. I don't know what "CSC" or "clutch pad" means, but you should only use an OEM or high quality, OEM equivalent, throwout bearing. If CSC means "pilot bearing," (?) I'm not sure why an aluminum one would be better than stock. It appears from a quick online search that the OEM pilot bearing (bushing) is brass or bronze. (Abbreviations are sometimes hard to guess.)

It sounds like "a slip whenever I try to get on it" means "I can feel the clutch slip when I rev over 5000 RPM", which casts doubt both on the flywheel and pressure plate. I would not re-use whatever pressure plate was in there, because if it slips it's not the right one...or it wasn't the right pressure plate for that non-OEM flywheel.

If you have the clutch right, then hopefully the problems will disappear. I know it's a pain, but I think you're on the right track if you restore it to the way the factory built it.

And a 3/8" torque wrench may be adequate, but I'd strongly recommend a 1/2" drive wrench with a maximum lbs/ft rating of around 150 pounds. Most 3/8 drive wrenches are rated lower than 1/2" units, and I want some reserve capability in my torque wrenches.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top