I have a early 260Z with what I think is factory original electronic ignition (I think this was the first year for electronic ignition in the Z). When I turn the key I get a click but the starter motor will not turn. If I keep turning the key on and off, eventually the starter motor will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot wire the starter, it turns fine, so there seems to be no problem with the starter. What else could be wrong? Could it be the transitor ignition module? If so, how do I fix it, and can I simply replace it with a modern electronic ignition?
Click, Click -- No Start
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> I have a early 260Z with what I think is
> factory original electronic ignition (I
> think this was the first year for electronic
> ignition in the Z). When I turn the key I
> get a click but the starter
> motor will not turn. If I keep turning the
> key on and off, eventually the starter motor
> will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot
> wire the starter, it turns fine, so there
> seems to be no problem with the starter.
> What else could be wrong? Could it be the
> transitor ignition module? If
> so, how do I fix it, and can I simply
> replace it with a modern electronic
> ignition?
Check the condition of the wires going to the starter--especially that one plug-on -terminal--that sucker corrodes pretty badly(on my 260Z) and it causes the clicking problem--I've had this problem myself and it drove me infernally mad--I had to the cut the old terminal off--strip the wire and recrimp a new terminal.
I seriously doubt it is the transister ignition module.
> factory original electronic ignition (I
> think this was the first year for electronic
> ignition in the Z). When I turn the key I
> get a click but the starter
> motor will not turn. If I keep turning the
> key on and off, eventually the starter motor
> will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot
> wire the starter, it turns fine, so there
> seems to be no problem with the starter.
> What else could be wrong? Could it be the
> transitor ignition module? If
> so, how do I fix it, and can I simply
> replace it with a modern electronic
> ignition?
Check the condition of the wires going to the starter--especially that one plug-on -terminal--that sucker corrodes pretty badly(on my 260Z) and it causes the clicking problem--I've had this problem myself and it drove me infernally mad--I had to the cut the old terminal off--strip the wire and recrimp a new terminal.
I seriously doubt it is the transister ignition module.
Joined
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107,695 Posts
> I have a early 260Z with what I think is
> factory original electronic ignition (I
> think this was the first year for electronic
> ignition in the Z). When I turn the key I
> get a click but the starter
> motor will not turn. If I keep turning the
> key on and off, eventually the starter motor
> will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot
> wire the starter, it turns fine, so there
> seems to be no problem with the starter.
> What else could be wrong? Could it be the
> transitor ignition module? If
> so, how do I fix it, and can I simply
> replace it with a modern electronic
> ignition?
When you hot wire the starter, are you hot-wiring to the relay, or directly to the starter? To me it sounds like a bad relay(selinoid??)? Whether the engine cranks or not when you turn the key to the start position has nothing to do with the ignition.
> factory original electronic ignition (I
> think this was the first year for electronic
> ignition in the Z). When I turn the key I
> get a click but the starter
> motor will not turn. If I keep turning the
> key on and off, eventually the starter motor
> will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot
> wire the starter, it turns fine, so there
> seems to be no problem with the starter.
> What else could be wrong? Could it be the
> transitor ignition module? If
> so, how do I fix it, and can I simply
> replace it with a modern electronic
> ignition?
When you hot wire the starter, are you hot-wiring to the relay, or directly to the starter? To me it sounds like a bad relay(selinoid??)? Whether the engine cranks or not when you turn the key to the start position has nothing to do with the ignition.
Joined
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107,695 Posts
> When you hot wire the starter, are you
> hot-wiring to the relay, or directly to the
> starter? To me it sounds like a bad
> relay(selinoid??)? Whether the engine cranks
> or not when you turn the key to the start
> position has nothing to do with the
> ignition.
You need a new starter. i just replaced mine yesterday. i got a new one from parts america for 39 bucks. put it in and no more clicking. i tried 3 different starters and soleniods and they all didn't work. they all went to the trash. buy a new starter
matt
> hot-wiring to the relay, or directly to the
> starter? To me it sounds like a bad
> relay(selinoid??)? Whether the engine cranks
> or not when you turn the key to the start
> position has nothing to do with the
> ignition.
You need a new starter. i just replaced mine yesterday. i got a new one from parts america for 39 bucks. put it in and no more clicking. i tried 3 different starters and soleniods and they all didn't work. they all went to the trash. buy a new starter
matt
Re: I agree with Matt.
> You need a new starter. i just replaced mine
> yesterday. i got a new one from parts
> america for 39 bucks. put it in and no more
> clicking. i tried 3 different starters and
> soleniods and they all didn't work. they all
> went to the trash. buy a new starter
> matt
Just be sure not to put your battery in backwards, if you feel the need to take it out to get it out of the way, when I replaced my starter, I did not pay attention to what I was doing with the battery, fried my entire car....
I agree with Matt though...bad starter...
good luck!
> You need a new starter. i just replaced mine
> yesterday. i got a new one from parts
> america for 39 bucks. put it in and no more
> clicking. i tried 3 different starters and
> soleniods and they all didn't work. they all
> went to the trash. buy a new starter
> matt
Just be sure not to put your battery in backwards, if you feel the need to take it out to get it out of the way, when I replaced my starter, I did not pay attention to what I was doing with the battery, fried my entire car....
I agree with Matt though...bad starter...good luck!
> When I turn the key I get a click but the starter
> motor will not turn. If I keep turning the
> key on and off, eventually the starter motor
> will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot
> wire the starter, it turns fine, ...
You've just described a common fault with 70's Datsuns of all models.
You'll need to replace the ignition (electric) switch. Note that this is seperate from the steering column lock - you won't need to change this or your keys, just the plastic rotary switch that sits inside the lock and is operated by the very tip of the key. Your Nissan dealer will know the right part and, while it will be overpriced for what it is, it shouldn't be too expensive.
It may also be possible to clean the copper contacts internally - I forget if they come apart.
> motor will not turn. If I keep turning the
> key on and off, eventually the starter motor
> will turn and the engine will fire. If I hot
> wire the starter, it turns fine, ...
You've just described a common fault with 70's Datsuns of all models.
You'll need to replace the ignition (electric) switch. Note that this is seperate from the steering column lock - you won't need to change this or your keys, just the plastic rotary switch that sits inside the lock and is operated by the very tip of the key. Your Nissan dealer will know the right part and, while it will be overpriced for what it is, it shouldn't be too expensive.
It may also be possible to clean the copper contacts internally - I forget if they come apart.
> When you hot wire the starter, are you
> hot-wiring to the relay, or directly to the
> starter? To me it sounds like a bad
> relay(selinoid??)? Whether the engine cranks
> or not when you turn the key to the start
> position has nothing to do with the
> ignition.
Thanks for the response. I am hot wiring to the copper terminal on the solenoid to which the spade shaped femal connector on the small wire attaches. No click, the motor turns.
> hot-wiring to the relay, or directly to the
> starter? To me it sounds like a bad
> relay(selinoid??)? Whether the engine cranks
> or not when you turn the key to the start
> position has nothing to do with the
> ignition.
Thanks for the response. I am hot wiring to the copper terminal on the solenoid to which the spade shaped femal connector on the small wire attaches. No click, the motor turns.
> You've just described a common fault with
> 70's Datsuns of all models.
> You'll need to replace the ignition
> (electric) switch. Note that this is
> seperate from the steering column lock - you
> won't need to change this or your keys, just
> the plastic rotary switch that sits inside
> the lock and is operated by the very tip of
> the key. Your Nissan dealer will know the
> right part and, while it will be overpriced
> for what it is, it shouldn't be too
> expensive.
> It may also be possible to clean the copper
> contacts internally - I forget if they come
> apart.
Thanks for the response. I tried replacing the ignition switch; no dice. In addition, this is the second starter, and I have also replaced the battery cables. Several responses indicate I should check the spade shaped femal connector. Since this is difficult to clean, I am going to cut it off and put on a new one tonight. If that doesn't work, I am going to try another starter.
> 70's Datsuns of all models.
> You'll need to replace the ignition
> (electric) switch. Note that this is
> seperate from the steering column lock - you
> won't need to change this or your keys, just
> the plastic rotary switch that sits inside
> the lock and is operated by the very tip of
> the key. Your Nissan dealer will know the
> right part and, while it will be overpriced
> for what it is, it shouldn't be too
> expensive.
> It may also be possible to clean the copper
> contacts internally - I forget if they come
> apart.
Thanks for the response. I tried replacing the ignition switch; no dice. In addition, this is the second starter, and I have also replaced the battery cables. Several responses indicate I should check the spade shaped femal connector. Since this is difficult to clean, I am going to cut it off and put on a new one tonight. If that doesn't work, I am going to try another starter.
> Check the condition of the wires going to
> the starter--especially that one plug-on
> -terminal--that sucker corrodes pretty
> badly(on my 260Z) and it causes the clicking
> problem--I've had this problem myself and it
> drove me infernally mad--I had to the cut
> the old terminal off--strip the wire and
> recrimp a new terminal.
> I seriously doubt it is the transister
> ignition module.
Thanks for the response. This is about the only thing I have not tried (two starters, one ignition switch, changed both battery cables). This is driving me MADDD!!!! I will try your idea tonight. If that doesn't work, I will try changing starters yet again. Out!
> the starter--especially that one plug-on
> -terminal--that sucker corrodes pretty
> badly(on my 260Z) and it causes the clicking
> problem--I've had this problem myself and it
> drove me infernally mad--I had to the cut
> the old terminal off--strip the wire and
> recrimp a new terminal.
> I seriously doubt it is the transister
> ignition module.
Thanks for the response. This is about the only thing I have not tried (two starters, one ignition switch, changed both battery cables). This is driving me MADDD!!!! I will try your idea tonight. If that doesn't work, I will try changing starters yet again. Out!
> Check the condition of the wires going to
> the starter--especially that one plug-on
> -terminal--that sucker corrodes pretty
> badly(on my 260Z) and it causes the clicking
> problem--I've had this problem myself and it
> drove me infernally mad--I had to the cut
> the old terminal off--strip the wire and
> recrimp a new terminal.
> I seriously doubt it is the transister
> ignition module.
I replaced the spade shaped female plug-on connector last night. No dice. Good idea though. All I can think of left to do is keep changing starters 'til I find one that works.
> the starter--especially that one plug-on
> -terminal--that sucker corrodes pretty
> badly(on my 260Z) and it causes the clicking
> problem--I've had this problem myself and it
> drove me infernally mad--I had to the cut
> the old terminal off--strip the wire and
> recrimp a new terminal.
> I seriously doubt it is the transister
> ignition module.
I replaced the spade shaped female plug-on connector last night. No dice. Good idea though. All I can think of left to do is keep changing starters 'til I find one that works.
> I replaced the spade shaped female plug-on
> connector last night. No dice. Good idea
> though. All I can think of left to do is
> keep changing starters 'til I find one that
> works.
One last question for you---the 260Z has a starter interlock system(seat switch-seat belt switch) which is supposed to prevent starting of the car unless you are seated and belt fastened.
On mine--the system has been bypassed. There is a bypass (emergency switch)button in the engine compartment.
If you've never had problems before starting your car--I doubt this is worth checking out.
I totally curious to find out what the problem is!
> connector last night. No dice. Good idea
> though. All I can think of left to do is
> keep changing starters 'til I find one that
> works.
One last question for you---the 260Z has a starter interlock system(seat switch-seat belt switch) which is supposed to prevent starting of the car unless you are seated and belt fastened.
On mine--the system has been bypassed. There is a bypass (emergency switch)button in the engine compartment.
If you've never had problems before starting your car--I doubt this is worth checking out.
I totally curious to find out what the problem is!
> One last question for you---the 260Z has a
> starter interlock system(seat switch-seat
> belt switch) which is supposed to prevent
> starting of the car unless you are seated
> and belt fastened.
> On mine--the system has been bypassed. There
> is a bypass (emergency switch)button in the
> engine compartment.
> If you've never had problems before starting
> your car--I doubt this is worth checking
> out.
> I totally curious to find out what the
> problem is!
I think mine has been bypassed too. The problem I am experiencing is sporadic. One time , I'll turn the key and the starter motor will turn, the next, I'll get the click. There does not seem to be any pattern. After turning the key on and off, and on again, they starter will always eventually turn and the car will start. I have never been stranded, nor was the previous (original) owner, who reported this problem to me when I bought the car three weeks ago. But, I would like to fix this problem because it is annoying. Since the starter that is on there now is not of the original type, I am ordering an original type starter from Nissan. If that doesn't fix the problem, I am clueless.
> starter interlock system(seat switch-seat
> belt switch) which is supposed to prevent
> starting of the car unless you are seated
> and belt fastened.
> On mine--the system has been bypassed. There
> is a bypass (emergency switch)button in the
> engine compartment.
> If you've never had problems before starting
> your car--I doubt this is worth checking
> out.
> I totally curious to find out what the
> problem is!
I think mine has been bypassed too. The problem I am experiencing is sporadic. One time , I'll turn the key and the starter motor will turn, the next, I'll get the click. There does not seem to be any pattern. After turning the key on and off, and on again, they starter will always eventually turn and the car will start. I have never been stranded, nor was the previous (original) owner, who reported this problem to me when I bought the car three weeks ago. But, I would like to fix this problem because it is annoying. Since the starter that is on there now is not of the original type, I am ordering an original type starter from Nissan. If that doesn't fix the problem, I am clueless.
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
Try this...
> I think mine has been bypassed too. The
> problem I am experiencing is sporadic. One
> time , I'll turn the key and the starter
> motor will turn, the next, I'll get the
> click. There does not seem to be
> any pattern. After turning the key on and
> off, and on again, they starter will always
> eventually turn and the car will start. I
> have never been stranded, nor was the
> previous (original) owner, who reported this
> problem to me when I bought the car three
> weeks ago. But, I would like to fix this
> problem because it is annoying. Since the
> starter that is on there now is not of the
> original type, I am ordering an original
> type starter from Nissan. If that doesn't
> fix the problem, I am clueless.
You said that when you run a jumper wire from batt. to the spade connector it starts every time right? Sounds like maybe there is not enough current getting to that point to close th relay. To check the switch, pull the connector of the back of the switch. There is a yellow wire and a white one. The white is to the batt. and the yellow to the starter. Use a jumper to connect the two and see if that does anything. Can't hurt to try. If it works then it is your switch.
> I think mine has been bypassed too. The
> problem I am experiencing is sporadic. One
> time , I'll turn the key and the starter
> motor will turn, the next, I'll get the
> click. There does not seem to be
> any pattern. After turning the key on and
> off, and on again, they starter will always
> eventually turn and the car will start. I
> have never been stranded, nor was the
> previous (original) owner, who reported this
> problem to me when I bought the car three
> weeks ago. But, I would like to fix this
> problem because it is annoying. Since the
> starter that is on there now is not of the
> original type, I am ordering an original
> type starter from Nissan. If that doesn't
> fix the problem, I am clueless.
You said that when you run a jumper wire from batt. to the spade connector it starts every time right? Sounds like maybe there is not enough current getting to that point to close th relay. To check the switch, pull the connector of the back of the switch. There is a yellow wire and a white one. The white is to the batt. and the yellow to the starter. Use a jumper to connect the two and see if that does anything. Can't hurt to try. If it works then it is your switch.
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