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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,
I recently started fixing up a 1985 300ZX turbo, and the only known issues with it is that the clutch is bad. It has not run in 5 years, but it is in really good shape otherwise. So, i got out my service manual, and bought all my parts to change the clutch, and I have run into a pretty important road block. I cant get my exhaust pipe off. I have removed the bolts from the triangular piece that connects it, but the flange at the top of the the exhaust is rusted pretty serious. i would really prefer not to cut it, so i was wondering if it is at all possible for you to give me some ideas on how i could get it loose. I am treating it with a penetrate now, but so far, no luck. I need help, cuz im on a limited budget and cant afford to mess up my exhaust pipe. PLEASE HELP!!!
 

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Could you just tap it with a mallet or hammer, maybe with a wedge, and see if it budges loose? Sometimes I will continually soak those types of items with some penetrating lubricant (which it sounds like you are doing) over a period of about a week. At that point they are considerably more malleable :).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
unfortunately, I have been soaking it for. About 10 days, and it is not even getting close to coming out... From where I am. It looks like I have to cut it
 

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Cut it with a cutting disc at a point where you can get a mig around it easily enough and part of the exhaust where it isn't rusted too badly, remembering you cannot weld rust at all so a quick 4 inch grinder around the pipe to clean off where you are going to weld. Keep the voltage down on the mig, tack weld in 3 places. Try setting the welder so that you can weld it medium and consistent a good crackling bacon sound. If the wire spits back at you there is too much wire speed. Keep it simple and if you need to, use the tack weld technique all the way around especially if there is a little bit bigger gap. Tack weld techique is pretty much holding the mig for a second then take handle away until you see the red part beginning to cool, as soon as it has cooled move up an 1/8th of an inch or so, it's best and strongest done this technique going up, and trigger the wire again for a second or so, you will get the feel, it may not even be for a second. Continue it up and around. I spose they call it the strongest second class weld someone can do. However it will always be a stronger weld then just migging it down. It's only exhaust pipe so what the heck.

If the gap is big, turn the voltage down and build up each end to be welded with then the middle run will have something to actually bind to. If the mig is too cold teh metals will not bind, too hot and you will blow.

After welding it get someone to put their hand over the exhaust outlet and you hear for any leaks that may be coming from at the 2 pieces you welded.

They're my methods, I don't weld exhausts however I weld beams and hook bins for trucks.
 

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If you ain't cut it yet. put the heat to it. wail away at joint with an air hammer as best you can. then take a four foot 4x4 and use that as a battering ram or a buddy with a sledge. drive the pipe toward the center of the car. this will usually bust it loose. once you get a little movement you are good just need to bust loose the rust lock
 

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RogerZ Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you ain't cut it yet. put the heat to it.
> wail away at joint with an air hammer as best you
> can. then take a four foot 4x4 and use that as a
> battering ram or a buddy with a sledge. drive the
> pipe toward the center of the car. this will
> usually bust it loose. once you get a little
> movement you are good just need to bust loose the
> rust lock

Yeah man, try this before you start hacking it off. Its bound to budge if you go at it long enough.
 
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