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chainging out valve stem seals on a 81 280zx

3300 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Healey Z
I can't seen to find the old post detailing how to change out the seals without removing the head. Can someone point me in that direction. Thanks, CW
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I just did mine last week. This site was great. Below are some additional notes I made to the guy I sold my spring compressor to.

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/seals.html


- Follow the directions from that guy's web site, they were excellent. Make sure you have every tool he lists.

- Look for the intake/exhaust valve to be at 10:00 and 2:00 and verify you are at TDC by sticking a screw driver in the sparkplug hole. The piston will be right there.

- Use the wire rope stuffer and push as much rope to the back as possible. When it seems full, take a small screw driver and compress it, really jam it in there, because the less the valve drops, the less you have to compress the spring. It is worth spending an extra 5 minutes there to save difficulty later. I often used more than the 4 feet he described in his directions (I'll send you 7 feet). It could have been a function of me compressing the string more than he did or perhaps I didn't get piston at total top dead center.

- I had to adjust the location of the compressor head to the first, second or third spot, to get the right angle and to work around the housing for the cam. Not a big deal, but just know you may need to change the setting on the compressor for access.

- Try to get as much of a vertical angle when compressing the spring, it allows you to remove/reinstall the keepers with less compression.

- Do one valve at a time, that way your get all the springs, keepers, rockers back where they belong. There really is no benefit doing more than one valve at a time.

- Cover your timing chain area, so you don't accidently drop a retainer or lash pad down there.

- I had a few keepers that were stuck to the spring retainer and some stuck to the valve. I was able to work the keepers free from the retainer by bouncing the spring with the compressor. I unstuck the keepers from the valve by compressing the spring and knocking them off with a standard head screw driver. It took only a few minutes and really not a big deal.

- I have never used my magnetic wand in the 20 years I have had it...works great at grabbing the lash pads and keepers.

- When reinstalling the valve keepers, first install the keepers in the retainer and put on top of the spring. Use the compressor to push down the spring, but keep your finger on top of the keepers! They can go flying under the pressure of the spring and everything else going on.

- The guy's instruction said to use a screw driver to compress the spring to remove the rocker, I just used the valve compressor...not sure why you would want to use a screw driver.
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Hey Seriously a big big Thank You as having all this information will really help. I felt I was really in over my head and now I feel more confident that I can do this job. And Thank You for getting it to me so quickly as I will be starting this today 12/13, Regards, CW
Chaine...no problem. I don't know these engines / cars (60's Ford guy). However, I am digging in and learning as I go and this just happens to be one of the things that I have done so far. Good luck. The first valve took me 45 minutes as I figured things out, all the others took 15-30. It is repititious and detail oriented. I did two cylinders and that was about as much as I could really maintain my focus. Then again focusing has never been my strong suit :)
it saves a lot of time and effort to use the fitting that screws into the spark plug hole and attaches to an air compressor to hold the valves shut instead of using the rope/string trick. If you have a compressor or can borrow one I highly recommend you go that route.
Thought I would let you guys how this all turned out. I did the valves the next day and finding a spring compressor was exceedingly difficult. When we did pull the seals only two were the correct size the 10 others were too big for the valves and I am convinced that is where the oil leaked and caused the burning on deceleration; like off the free way. The engine runs great now and I am very pleased. Healy as for me I am like shocked at my wife's 95 Mustang GT conv. with 250,000 with no work on the engine or auto trans and runs great. I have never been a Ford fan but now? Anyway Thanks to you and ghostaker for the help and suggestions. CW
Thought I would let you guys how this all turned out. I did the valves the next day and finding a spring compressor was exceedingly difficult. When we did pull the seals only two were the correct size the 10 others were too big for the valves and I am convinced that is where the oil leaked and caused the burning on deceleration; like off the free way. The engine runs great now and I am very pleased. Healy as for me I am like shocked at my wife's 95 Mustang GT conv. with 250,000 with no work on the engine or auto trans and runs great. I have never been a Ford fan but now? Anyway Thanks to you and ghostaker for the help and suggestions. CW
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