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Discussion Starter #1
Well this sucks big time. I have spent the entire weekend working on my car, only to have it run like crap and spring a radiator leak. My lifters have been making a **** of a lot of noise, so I have replaced them all. Here is what all I did...
New Topline lifters $180
new intake gasket
new valve cover gaskets
Installed Gillis Boost Valve
New Plugs BCP6RE (i think) Plugs are easy as **** with the intake off
New Nissan Wires Sumimoto
New Nissan Dist Cap and Rotor
WAS going to install new O2 sensor but after 1 can of Liquid Wrench, a broken swivel, and a 3/8's impact i said f*** it and left it in there. Its the original O2 BTW
So I finally finish up last night about 2 am, (been working on it since fri night), I crank it and it runs crappy for a sec, (lifters pumping up), and then runs fine. So today i take it for a test drive and its running AWSOME, boosting about 8-9 psi, so i turn it down, and i notice a coolant leak which i think is the radiator, (looks like original radiator). Well I drive it some more and after i turn around the car just starts stumbling and coughing and doesnt to get out of its own way. So i stop and check things out and everything looks fine. Crank it back up and runs fine. Drive some more and does the same thing. It seems to only do it when it warms up. Also, my boost gauge used to read about 20 at idle and now it seem to run at about 15. So i figure i have a vaccum leak or maybe a hose hooked up wrong. Could someone PLEASE give a link to an EXTENSIVE diagram of where hoses go. Haynes manual is crap. Also, when i installed the boost valve, the directions said to hook one side to turbo and one to WGA. Well i saw that there is a tee that goes to two places on turbo so i hooked one end to that and one to WGA. I didnt see a reason to plug off the other part because that is part of the WG operation, right? Man i am screwed i have to drive my car back to college today and i dont want to screw up my car driving it down the road on the interstate for an hour while something is wrong with it. PLEASE HELP!!!! THanks.
 

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here is how i got that o2 sensor off...
remove that heat shield right in front of the brake and clutch master cylinders. You'll need a hammer and a small philips screwdriver. Just hammer the screwdriver through the side of the old sensor and twist. easy as pie.
 

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Wait a minute. You did all the head work your selfe but you can't tell where the vac lines go?

Whenever you do a project like that you tape and label every vac line and electrical connection so you don't get lost puting it all back together. Instead of calling the HAYNES crap you should have read it and took there advise on labeling ****.

You don't need a vac diagram. All you need to do is spend some time under the hood checking all the vac lines. It's a 20 year old car the vac lines are probably shot to ****. Replacing old warn vac lines should be part of your tune up.
 

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Did you check to see if your extra pressure blew some of the vaccum lines off their fittings? When old lines see extra pressure, they tend to not stay on for long. What you might have to do is either go around replacing all the lines, or you could take some small zip ties and make sure they don't come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well thanks for all the help,
1sikZ
Date: Sep 25, 10:02am

Man, I really do feel sorry for you. If I had a link to a FSM, I'd give it to you. Maybe somebody else had it.
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- Thanks

You might find something here that helps. I can tell you from experience that 1/2" drive is the way to go with a stuck o2 sensor. Sure you plugged the sensor back in?
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- I didn't want to go with the 1/2' because I had to leave TODAY, I i had sheared off the sensor or stripped the threads, I would be up s*** creek. I will get it when i have time to anticipate having to rethread it.

Modified_85
Date: Sep 25, 3:19pm

Wait a minute. You did all the head work your selfe but you can't tell where the vac lines go?

Whenever you do a project like that you tape and label every vac line and electrical connection so you don't get lost puting it all back together. Instead of calling the HAYNES crap you should have read it and took there advise on labeling ****.

You don't need a vac diagram. All you need to do is spend some time under the hood checking all the vac lines. It's a 20 year old car the vac lines are probably shot to ****. Replacing old warn vac lines should be part of your tune up.
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-I DID label all the vac lines and hoses, but for all i know, the previous owner may have had them wrong, therefore all i wanted to do was check it. I have been replacing hoses all the time, one day i will do like you are doing right now and remove the engine and clean the bay and replace all the hoses with silicone. Thanks for the tip though, and i look forward to seeing your car when you are done with it.

17_6
Date: Sep 25, 4:11pm
did you adjust valve lash and what not..sounds like you cut a few too many corners
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- I adjusted the valves, rockers, and intake to the specified torque values, and replaced all the parts with genuine Nissan parts, (except for the Lifters, which are Topline, and I am not paying $28 a piece for Nissan lifters)

domdogg123
Date: Sep 25, 4:40pm

Did you check to see if your extra pressure blew some of the vaccum lines off their fittings? When old lines see extra pressure, they tend to not stay on for long. What you might have to do is either go around replacing all the lines, or you could take some small zip ties and make sure they don't come off.
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- I will definitely check that, and I could see that happening, thanks.



Post Edited (Sep 25, 6:03pm)
 

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Sorry about the lifters pal, $28 a piece would be a ripoff.

But they're only $11 a piece.

<http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=Z31-VLIFT>

Even though you need 2 per cylinder, that's still ~$120....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
what about S&H? Also i needed these in a hurry, and the only that had them for a decent price was internalengineparts, but thanks for the link, and i wish i would have done more research. LaterZ.
 

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I didn't want to go with the 1/2' because I had to leave TODAY, I i had sheared off the sensor or stripped the threads, I would be up s*** creek. I will get it when i have time to anticipate having to rethread it.

You wouldn't have done either and it sounds like you are up **** creek now ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
LOL, good point. Well I resolved the problem, I tinkered around with the boost controller and the fuel temp sensor. It seemed to do better, and eventually the problem stopped altogether. Thanks a lot for all the help guys and I hope to be getting some fuel system upgrades soon. But money is tight and school takes most of it so my I will have to be content with the speed I have...lol. LaterZ.
 
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