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Discussion Starter #1
Here is what im doing

280z tranny
exedy stage 1 clutch 240mm---- stock 280z is 225mm
2+2/turbo flywheel


I have 280z collars but he is saying that the 2+2 collar i ordered isnt needed, or to be absolutely positive that the 2+2 collar is needed.

Do i need the 2+2 collar or the coupe collar? Then he tried talking me into a fidanza flywheel which i cant afford. I also ordered a competition oil pan gasket from them also which i told him to hold onto until i figure out the collar thing. He wants me to (when i get my exedy clutch in the mail) to measure the pressure plate finger height. And that will tell him.

so who has done this swap? thanks He said if someone told you to jump off a bridge , would you do it cause i said people told me to use the 2+2 clutch collar.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

ok first thing...

DO NOT GET THAT OIL PAN GASKET!!!!!

i played teenager and didnt listen to everyone on here about that, and i just got through wiping a puddle of oil up under my engine and changing out the gasket. THAT ONE SUCKS. its been leaking slowly since i finished the engine and put some oil in it till i drop it in. USE GREY RTV... it seems to be working perfectly. bone dry. please trust me man, one volvo owner to the next. RTV is what Nissan now uses for a lot of gaskets on the engine....

as for the clutch, you would think you would need the 2+2 one...cause you have a 2+2 size clutch, so i say yes, but that is an educated guess.



Post Edited (Oct 18, 1:32pm)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

the competition gasket didnt hold up for you? thats odd since all the old posts says it holds well. And it cant be smashed by overtightening. Also it can be reused.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

no no no no no no no...if ya want i can go take a picutre of what it looks like now in the trash can....i stongly recommend just getting a $3 tube of Permatex Ultra Grey RTV....lots of the past topics say to use it, but i disreguarded it...its all up to you... i dont want to have to change the gasket again!!!!

maybe some others opnions would help ya out.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

RTV (room temperature vinyl) is NOT good for gaskets on the oil pan! No one I know recommends indtoducing RTV to an engine if you want it to last. Do it right and use stock parts and it will last. Gooping on sealant is no way to treat an engine...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

im just going to try it with no sealent. Maybe just a cork one and torque it right. I really have heard good things about the competetion one, please post a pic of it.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

ok..one sec.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

Wow, two people said to use RTV and now you are "strongly recommending" it before you even get your first engine together? Give me a break. Use factory gackets and it lasts 30 years. Use goopy RTV and it's rigged.

Permatex gasket adhesive is OK, Permatex RTV is flirting with the unknown.

-mark
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

yes im stongley recommending it. i used the other oil pan gasket and what happened? it leaked. im now using RTV and whats happening? its not leaking.


if its flirting with the unknown then why do 240SX engines not even have an oil pan gasket, all the FSM's say to use this RTV?
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

There is a 4mm difference between the shorter 2+2 collar (48mm) and the regular collar (52mm). I have miss matched them over the years without any problems. But back then I didn't know the difference. The nissan engineers made it shorter for a reason so I would try to use the shorter collar.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

Everything I've read says use the collar that matches the clutch assembly your using.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

Like WangsMan, I have also got the two mixed up in the past. Although it will work (you'll have to make up the difference in the adjustment), what happens is by using the longer collar it puts the throwout bearing at a different angle causing uneven pressure on the pressure plate and bearing. This results in shorter clutch life.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

Bubble you had to have done something wrong, my original cork gasket sucked and leaked, i bought the comp gasket with NO sealant and it worked great, not leaks its alot nicer than other one i had. Doug get the comp one you have seen my car, does it leak? nope....
 

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There is no "2+2" Collar...

There are around 35 collars for L-Series Transmissions, but there usually are only TWO that really matter:
Early 240 and 260Z
And
Late, 280, 280ZX.

The L28 had a collar of a different legnth than the 240 and 260 due to different diaphragm spring height and release characteristics. If you keep the same flywheel and pressure plate with the collar that it came with, you will be fine.
If you don't then you better find the height measurements for the respective collars, and what they go to so you will know you have the right one.

There really is no "adjustment" due to no threaded rod on the later slave cylinders, so if it doesn't work, you got the wrong one, and need the other.

The collars rarely wear appreciably when properly lubricated, and harvesting them is usually a matter of not letting it fall off the tranny when you pull it from the donor vehicle. This is one example of asking the questions before the donor harvesting may save you confusion later on.

Good Luck. There is a lot of information in the archives on this to flesh out what I said, I'm sure I remember someone posting the heights of the collars, too.
 

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Re: call from msa,says he thinks the 2+2 clutch collar isnt need

I have been rebuilding engine since before bubble guinea was a twinkle in his daddy's eye....and my dad was building funny car motors and MG hill climbers since the late fifties, professionally. Bubble guinea, I will absolutely positively tell you that using silicone instead of the proper gasket is the sloppiest, most unprofessional, slipshod practice imaginable. I have seen more than one engine fail due to small pieces of that stuff getting lodged in oil or water passages, (indeed, it's entirely common knowledge among engine builders that you shouldn't use it)and even if it doesn't screw up your motor, it makes you look like a hack to use it.you need to learn to do things right before you go giving more advice.
 

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A key point on the comp gasket:

Take yourself some 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick strap steel, and bend it to fit around the perimiter of your oil pan flange. A torch makes it easier, but is not required. Them drill all those damnable holes, and use that to CLAMP the oil pan flange between it, and the block. This GREATLY decreases the leakage incidents. Ever notice Nissan did the exact same thing?

This works great. I put studs on my block for the oil pan, and used flanged anti-vibration nuts to secure the thing, and have had no leaks whatsoever. In fact, the cork gasket works well when used in this manner, too. It's the even clamping you get from that stress spreader you make!

I hate oil leaks. The comp gasket only works well when you have flat pan flanges, making this little doo dad will eliminate the straightness somewhat, as clamping it evenly compensates for uneven distortion you will get when using even the stock nuts and hardware...
 

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Beware of RTV...

Inappropriate application of gobs of RTV can trash heads, turbos, etc. I have seen bad things happen when a blob breaks off, and migrates down an oil passage to plug something like a cam oiling squirter hole.

You can use it, just don't get stupid using it!
 

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Uh... That's "Room Temperature Vulcanization"

Not "Room Temperature Vinyl"...
 
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