Before this all happened did you open up the engine at all if so what work and when was it done?
Before this all happened did you open up the engine at all if so what work and when was it done?This is my 82 that I rebuilt the transmission on, did about 250km test mileage with zero problems and zero hiccups... then after sitting for 3 days, it couldn't even back out of the driveway without dying - plugs severely oil fouled.
After a new set of plugs, the car could barely run after 100 feet and only made it around the block coasting. New plugs were wet with oil after 500 meters.
I can't think of any way this much oil could get into the cylinders other than valve seals or rings.
Thoughts?
No, I bought the car with a blown transmission and drove it about 5km to my garage, then parked it. It ran very little over a 2 year period (possibly longer) but it seemed to be running fine, as I said, for about 250km. I just checked the basics and changed the oil. I didn't see any major reasons to dig deeper as the car was running virtually flawlessly.Before this all happened did you open up the engine at all if so what work and when was it done?
I haven't checked it yet for one simple reason- if it's seals, I can take care of that in a day for $100 and move forward. If it's rings, I'm going to need to come up with a whole new plan for that car - I'm not eager to have it back in pieces taking up valuable garage space again after just finishing the transmission. And obviously it's going to cost a bit more than $100Have you checked compression? Mine has oily spark plugs with almost 200psi compression on all cylinders, so I think my problem is either with the PCV or valve seals
Yes, the car did sit a lot over a 2-3 year period. I ran it a few times just to move some oil around and boil off some moisture, but otherwise it sat. My first thought was rings, but it ran so well for those couple hundred miles I figured the rings wouldn't suddenly get that much worse.Without being able to drive it for any amount of distance to test oil consumption it may be difficult to say oil or rich. Going from good to bad that fast seems odd but the car was down for 2 years? Rings can get stuck. Surface rust can form in the cylinders and damage rings. Do the compression test, both wet and dry and report results please.
It’s strange to come on all of a sudden like you said.This is my 82 that I rebuilt the transmission on, did about 250km test mileage with zero problems and zero hiccups... then after sitting for 3 days, it couldn't even back out of the driveway without dying - plugs severely oil fouled.
After a new set of plugs, the car could barely run after 100 feet and only made it around the block coasting. New plugs were wet with oil after 500 meters.
I can't think of any way this much oil could get into the cylinders other than valve seals or rings.
Thoughts?
PCV system. The engine will run lousy if the engine is under a lot of positive pressure. It will force the oil past the rings. Positive pressure doesn’t mean under high pressures.This is my 82 that I rebuilt the transmission on, did about 250km test mileage with zero problems and zero hiccups... then after sitting for 3 days, it couldn't even back out of the driveway without dying - plugs severely oil fouled.
After a new set of plugs, the car could barely run after 100 feet and only made it around the block coasting. New plugs were wet with oil after 500 meters.
I can't think of any way this much oil could get into the cylinders other than valve seals or rings.
Thoughts?
So... I got new seals in from rockauto. They were the wrong part. Also, their return system is very consumer-hostile but that's another story. I took a couple seals out and you know what? They look fine. Rubber is still pliable, springs are there, I can't imagine they're sealing so bad as to explain all this oil. I was thinking I'd find hardened, cracked seals, but I think you guys are right, I now can't imagine it's the seals.You should be able to tell if the seals are shot right away. You sould pull on valve assy spring off and takd a look. Don't worry about the exhaust just do a intake. I personally find it hard to think it could be that bad, just from valve stem seals. I would be tempted to disable the PCV system, just plug up the hose to the PCV valve and leave the valve cover vented (plug the hose that vents it to prevent a vacuum leak). leave the valve cover vented only. That should cover vacuum leaks and allow any blowby to vent. Then see if it still burns oil.
Great idea- but it's a manual.It’s strange to come on all of a sudden like you said.
Is this car an automatic? I would check the vacuum modulator first thing, if the diaphragm is ruptured it’s gonna suck all the fluid out of your transmission Claude up your whole driveway and the car won’t move very far.
I'm back to thinking ok, crankcase pressure. So where should I look other than the pcv valve? Any other likely candidates? I guess I need to pull the hose off the block and see if it's completely plugged, but it would be strange if the hose is blocked and the valve is ok hey?PCV system. The engine will run lousy if the engine is under a lot of positive pressure. It will force the oil past the rings. Positive pressure doesn’t mean under high pressures.
Gotta give props here. It was (or really really looks like) it was the CHTS after all. It looked fine but it wasn't- the contacts weren't making a good connection. I'll drive it tomorrow and verify but even with a crap plugs it runs well. Freakin Datsun engineers. 😂Are you sure its oil burn and not running SUPER rich? Did you change anything on the PCV system? Do you still have the hose on the valve cover and the hose under the intake manifold that goes from the front of the engine block to the PCV valve that is in the bottom middle of the intake manifold?
A broken or disconnected intake boot after the AFM will cause the car to run really bad. A bad or disconnected CHTS will make your car run really really bad.