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Discussion Starter #1
It sounds so violent.

I'm looking for any tips on bleeding the clutch. If I don't go with the 280zx brake hose conversion - any tips for bleeding of the clutch dampener and slave/operating cylinder? I've been struggling some as easy as it sounds to do.

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bob,

What was it that took all the time? I know the Haynes manual states it's about 2-3 rounds of pumping the clutch but when I'm bleedin the slave/operating cylinder I went through 8 rounds and I will still pumping air.

Thanks for any advice, I'm getting desperate over here - really want to have the car on the road by this weekend.
 

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Why don't you want to replace the clutch dampener? The 280zx brake hose is like $13?

Make sure you have a tight fitting piece of vacuum tubing, and that you use teflon tape on the bleeder screw.

If you're getting really desperate, you can go and spend $50 on a speed bleeder like I did, they are available at a local parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks domdogg! I will pick up some teflon tape - I haven't been doing that thus far.

I actually do have all of the parts to swap the 280zx brake hose in but as mentioned above I got overzealous and rounded the bolt that connects the Master Cylinder to the dampener. I decided to wait for now because I got so frustrated.

I even tried vice grips after WD-40'ing the bitch and it was still rounding the bolt!
 

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stu:
it sounds to me like your doing the exact same as me......... for some reason i just kept getting air........ i used 1 1/2 large bottles of dot 3 when doing mine..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm definitely stuggling with it but I'm hoping that domdogg's suggestion of using the teflon tape to seal the tube will help. I'm going to pick up some tonight. With mine I'm not really loosing any fluid now - but the air just never ends (from the operating/slave cylinder) and the dampener doesn't seem like it even needs bleeding. It's confusing! I'll post about how tonight turns out!
 

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replace the dampener with the 280 hose, open the bleeder on the slave cylinder you don't even have to pump the clutch pedal, just allow the fluid to flow out the bleeder while you monitor the master cylinder reservoir, dont allow it to empty out. once the exiting fluid is clean, close the bleeder. you're done. you should now have a firm clutch pedal. if you dont, there is air entering the system somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for everyones input!

I did install the 280zx hose last night (after finally soaking the nut/bolt in enough WD-40 to sink a ship). With the 280zx hose installed the process should go a lot smoother!

I am going to attempt to bleed the system tonight - I'll try chezam's advice first. If it doesn't work out I'll bleed the air out of the system as domdogg suggested.

Thanks again guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is it normal to have to make adjustments to the clutch after replacing a well used clutch plate (and assembly)?

For example, after it's bled will I likely have to make some adjustments to the clutch (via the nut on the back on the clutch)?
 
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