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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought my 83zx with 127000 miles on it. I want to start putting synthetic oil but I have a ?. DO I need to flush out the engine before i switch or can I get a way just sooner oil change intervals to clean out all the old oil crap.
 

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Here's the trick...

Switching from conventional oil to synthetic is no problem. There is nothing special to do, just change your oil like you normally would.

If you are concerned about the cleanliness of your engine internals, change your oil one last time with conventional oil. Don't forget the filter. Then, after about 500 miles, drain that oil, and change the filter, fill up with the synthetic, and you're ready to go.

Personally, I run Redline in everything (engine/trans/diff), and have noticed a reduction in overall temperatures, and it does help make shifting smoother. As far as increase in power, I don't think it was enough to notice unless you put your car on a dyno. I would suspect that some power is increased, however, just due to the fact that everything runs cooler, which indicates less friction, hence more hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<b>RE: detergents/flushing helps</b>

When I switched, I added a quart of some engine detergent and ran about 100 miles before the last eil change. I think this may clean out any crap, ie. sludge that may be hiding from many miles of crude oil.

I use Mobile 1 and won't go back to the old stuff. It has to be superior, regardless of all the reports of no measurable improvements.

Just my two cents.

Later,

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Keep in mind...

keep in mind if you have any oil leaks you need to fix them prior to changing to synthetic. The synthetic oil will leak out a lot faster than conventional oil. So, if you have any leaks at all make sure to repair them first or else your $3-5 a quart oil will end up on the pavement. Synthetic oil is the best thing you can put in your engine IMHO. However, I really don't think it is really worth it to run fully sythetic. I use semisythetic in my 240ZT. Also, I don't think you will notice much of a difference if that is what you are expecting. Since you don't even have a turbo, I almost don't think it is worth it at all. But you can't hurt anything by running it, just cost a lot more. Oh yeah, what ever you do, do not use any Tefelon additive products. It is bad stuff(slick 50) and Dupont the maker of Tefelon even says so.
Later,
Tim Deesen
71' 240ZT
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Redline Synthetic Oil---Where

Hi.. Just wanted to know if this is available nationwide (ZZ Top).. I would like to try it out instead of Mobile 1. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is no real switch.

Hi.

I had been using sintetic in all my cars. There is really nothing to do. Just use syntetic next time you change your oil. That is it. I change my syntetic every 3-3,5K miles. I belive if you keep your oil fresh, your engine will run forever. :+) Plus, there are other side benefits to it.

Redline is good but rather pricy brand. I usually use Mobil1 fully syntetic, or Castrol GTX. Both had been proven through races and I am happy with them.(Box will run you around 25$).

Be aware though. Syntetic is generally much thiner oil that conventional one. If your car will develop some little oil leaks all of a sudden it might be some of the oil sipping through.

Eugene
 

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RE: There is no real switch.

I notice some people talking about synthetic oil being pricey. Synthetic oil doesn't break down the way dyno oils do. (settle down science guys, I work for NASA and I can site my sources) You will notice that your oil stays clean enough to see through when you use synthetic. Redline recommends longer change intervals due to the non-breakdown. I go about 12K with filter changes at 4K intervals but I know people who go 15K with filter changes at 5K intervals. If you consider the lengthened service life, the synthetic oil comes much closer to dyno cost. Trust me, I would not risk my $40K 4Runner if this stuff didn't work. I have seen 3HP peak HP increases while hanging around at the local dynomometer waiting for my own car to get done, with just a change to synthetic oil. Some can't use it. It is thinner and if your car has a propensity to leak - it will. Besides if it already leaks you would be a fool to pour synthetic "through the cracks" as it were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
RE: There is no real switch.

Have run synthetics (mobil 1) in everything for last 5 years or so. Great stuff. I started using it because my 85 300ZX went clack-clack on startup (even w/ the factory oil filter). Didn't do it w/ Mobil 1. It's an absolute must on turbos or high heat type engines.
I work w/ big jets-jet engines ABSOLUTELY use synthetics because the stuff is truly better. Previous commenter is right-the stuff just doesn't break down at normal eng temps like regular oils do.
I run 7,000-8,000 mi per change but know guys at work who run 15,000+ by getting oil analysis and only changing when analysis indicates it is starting to go.
P.S. engine is happier-you can just tell.
 

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Save your money.

Theres nothing wrong with synthetics and they probably do perform better in extreme motors (like jet engines). But you don't have a jet in your Z and I'm unaware of any conclusive proof synthetics do any better than a quality mineral oil in a street driven auto. If it was so superior minerals would be obsolete and off the market, automobile manufacturers would ship it in the crankcases of their product and it would be specified by everyone with a warranty liability. Get an API SJ rated oil, a decent filter and replace them every 5K miles. Go with a synthetic if you just have money burning holes in your pocket there's nothing wrong with it besides price.
 

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RE: Save your money.

This is to RogerAustin in particular but this is a forum for discussion so... Now as I pointed out but didn't apparently illustrate, If dyno oil costs say $1.25/QT and Mobil 1 costs $3.00 per QT and the labor whether yours or that of others you pay is, lets say $10.00 and lets call the filter $5.00 for sake of this discussion. Now if you change your oil every 3K as you should with dyno oil you have spent $105.00 and you need an oil change when you have gone 15K. That same single oil change with Mobil 1 would cost $30.00 + an additional $10 to $15.00 depending on how often you change the filter, (I didn't add labor for this since even my wife wouldn't mind spinning off the filter on an L6 to put on a new one) but last 12 - 15K. Here is where I find your economy to be false. You say that you should only use synthetic if you have money burning a hole in your pocket, I say, clearly, you should only use dyno oil if you have money burning a hole in your pocket and you don't mind a dirty sludge filled motor. Synthetic oil cost less than half over that 15K miles! Now as for people with warranty liability recommending synthetic, I believe you will find the ZR1 Corvette and BMW and Mercedes products have owners manual recommendations for synthetic after break-in. I use synthetic in my motor because it is cheaper, cleaner, gains me HP (about 3HP peak and yes that is tested on a dyno). I may not have a jet motor in my Z but my motor cost more than most of the Z cars I see driving around California so I jealously protect it. I have also seen evidence that was unbiased and written by engineers. Two of the engineers I work with at NASA Dryden Flight Test Research have Z cars, one of them I am meeting at Willow Springs on Saturday to watch the Porsche Club races both use synthetic oil. Neither would give it up. Nor would I.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
<b>RE: Save your money.</b>

My 2 cents:

If you are concerned about cost, run synthetics only during extreme temperatures. In cold weather, synthetics don't thicken in cold weather like conventional oils do. In the heat, synthetics don't break down like conventional oils do.

I have been sold on Royal Purple (local NAPA store carries it in 10W30, 15W40 and 20W50 ). We run it in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder cars as well as small engines.

Dave's comment (about changing the oil first with conventional oil to clean things out before starting with synthetics) is right on the money. I would never add a cleaner/flush to the crankcase. If you are concerned with crud buildup, drop the oil pan; clean it and the oil pick-up.
 

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Back at ya Rob

I know plenty of guys who work at NASA that don't know where the hood release lever is in their cars. Working at NASA doesn't make you an authority on anything except working at NASA (I worked there and so did my nephew on the command console software and AI/Lisp projects - crap, he can't even find the oil filler cap on his car). Last time I checked NASA was not in the business of evaluating wear on automobile engines. Since you are in the Houston area - run over to Shells testing lab on Bissonett or Texaco's lab on Hwy 6 in Houston and ask one of their chemists about it, they know far more on the subject. As far as a sludge filled motor from using "dyno" oil vs. synthetic - back it up - that is your opinion! I know plenty of well maintained "dyno" oil motors with 100,000+ miles that are far from sludge filled. Mercedes does NOT ship with synthetic and a ZR1 Corvette is not your typical street car either.
 

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oops - sorry Rob

I see you DON'T work at NASA Houston. I still stand by my post though. BTW I pay $0.75/qt for costal (good old Texas/Louisiana refined) oil.
 

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LBJ told the world NASA was in TX!

Roger, The guys at DFTRC thank you for the giggles(those that do know where their oil filler caps and hood releases are anyway).
I will be going to JSC the second week in June and my boss has added an inservice on "where is my oil cap" and "How to find your hood release" to my schedule. Seriously, You seem a little emotionally attached to your dinosaur oil products... who do you work for now??? I doubt that a Shell or Texaco chemist (neither company has a very strong grip on the synthetic market) could run an unbiased experiment, after all they have to remember who signs the paycheck. Anyway even if you pay $0.75/Quart I still pay less then half over 15K miles so there is no economic advantage. I can show the dynomometer run sheet so there is a performance advantage (at least in the case of my car). I will concede that a well maintained dino oiled car will not have sludge on tear down but I would point out that a poorly maintained synthetically oiled car would not have sludge either. No car is delivered with synthetic. That point is without question, break-in should be with dinosaur oil. I am enjoying this though, we should meet. Doing anything special the week of 14 June?
 

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LBJ told the world NASA was in TX!

Roger, The guys at DFTRC thank you for the giggles(those that do know where their oil filler caps and hood releases are anyway).
I will be going to JSC the second week in June and my boss has added an inservice on "where is my oil cap" and "How to find your hood release" to my schedule. Seriously, You seem a little emotionally attached to your dinosaur oil products... who do you work for now??? I doubt that a Shell or Texaco chemist (neither company has a very strong grip on the synthetic market) could run an unbiased experiment, after all they have to remember who signs the paycheck. Anyway even if you pay $0.75/Quart I still pay less then half over 15K miles so there is no economic advantage. I can show the dynomometer run sheet so there is a performance advantage (at least in the case of my car). I will concede that a well maintained dino oiled car will not have sludge on tear down but I would point out that a poorly maintained synthetically oiled car would not have sludge either. No car is delivered with synthetic. That point is without question, break-in should be with dinosaur oil. I am enjoying this though, we should meet. Doing anything special the week of 14 June?
 

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RE: LBJ told the world NASA was in TX!

Roger, This discussion reminds me of a saying that a Lockheed Martin engineer told me.
Arguing with an engineer is like mud-wrestling with a pig. After an hour or so you realize your covered with mud and the **** pig is enjoying it! Good discussion. Rob
 

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I'm just a tool of the oil cartel! he he

Just kiddin - Rob, I figured you'd flame me, but it seems you are another person (like myself)who appreciates a little tension. Good to meet another "groan up". June 14th? Yeah, I'll be there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
<b>i dont use oil unless i have too</b>

I have a 1971 chevy dump truck,it doesnt like oil it usually spits it on the ground within the first hour of adding it. First she's probably older than either one of your datsuns secondly she can carry four or five of your datsuns chopped up in her bed, and lastly she will still spin her all 4 rear tires with her natural aspirated 350 and i'll even go as far as to say she'll probably still be earning me more money than your two cars are worth together for another 10 years when your rust prone Z cars with well lubricated engines have been sold to poor college students which will abuse and crash them to bitty pieces. now that i joined your discussion and totally ripped on your cars i've gotta admit i own 10 Z cars,and i really like the engineers that designed them for us all thanks NISSAN. Oh yea and i own NASA,SHELL,EXXON,and i will be contacting you in regards to the job you used to have with my company cause i don't pay you to give out company secrets on secured lab testing on synthetics(NOTTTTT!!!!!) have a happy new year,kwanza, and a partridge in a pear tree.
 
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