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I wrote a couple of months ago about whether tripples are worth the effort, and had bought some right before your response. Any way, called Vance & Hines for a Manonmeter, they didn't know what I was talking about. they call them mercury meters. same thing? they also said that with the balance tube running through the manafold, I wouldn't get an accurate reading. I'm trying to get my car ready for the motorsport show in Apr. and am running into one snag after the other. I know that once it's all done I'll love it, but for now it kind of sucks. I'll try to check this sight (I don't have my own computer). Hope to here from you. THANKS! Brian
 

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RE: BW are you there?

Hello, yes, it's the same thing as a merc. unit. If you went to a motorcycle shop just ask for a carb sysc tool, they are a manometer regardless and they can come in a 4 carb unit (4 mercery tubes). I taped fittings into the manifold close to the carbs but I don't know why they say it's inacrate as each manifold is seperate and isolated to each carb and when you are reading vacume pressure that depends on what is effected by the carbs throttle plate movement. This is going to be a long post here but I'll type exactly what it says in the Mikuni manual, this will help and you can print it out for reference or to show to whoever doen't think these can be used as they don't know any better.
"Adjustment Procedure"
First set the pilot screws for each carb. to the spec. number of turns. This is done by carefully seating the screw and backing off set number of turns. Next set the throttle stop screw of each carb by screwing in about one turn past the point where the throttle screw comes in contact with the throttle lever.
Warm entine till normanl op. pressure.
In the case of 4 cyl (same for 6 cyl) connect a namometer to No.1 and No3 or No.2 and No.4 manifolds. Got that, it says MANIFOLDS IN THE SERVICE MANUAL! It also stresses remaining consistant with which set of carb sides you use, for a 6 cyl use either cyl no.1, 3, 5 (or) 2,4,6. Either all the right sides of each carb set or each left side, not one left carb on the first carb and the right one on the second carb.
Ok, back to the manual...
If the negative pressure of each manifold measured is not right, set the negative pressure with the adjusting screw. (I assume they mean the throttle stop screw here)
Find the position of the highest engine RPM by screwing each pilot screw in and out about 1/16 turn and then set the position.
Set the proper engine idle RPM with throttle stop screw. (turn each the same number of turns to keep sync.)
I seperate the linkage and do all my adjusting this way and the set each linkage back on, it works great. I also have ran it up to around 2000rpm with the Manometer on to see if it's staying constantly even for each carb but I stress this, don't snap the throttle with the manometer on or you'll suck the mercery out and then you'll have to find more mercery, it won't hurt the engine but you have to make sure you run it through and spit it out the exaust. I had to do some linkage fix due to a bit of slop that threw this off.
It also says about the air flow tool, When using a flow meter for sync. of each carb. measure the flow as quickly as possible, applying a flow meter to the air duct too long can cause a rich mixture.
I noticed that when I did this with my mikuni's after taking it off gas ran out of the top of the carb. and came VERY CLOSE to the header and I'm glad I have it wraped, it's kind of dangerous and it's another reason I like the Manometer. They work, they are much better than a flow tester as far as I'm concerned. I hope this helps, it sure gave me a typing lesson... if you want e-mail me and I'll give you my phone number for any more info as this typing is a pain... good luck...
B.W.
 

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<b>RE: BW are you there?</b>

Thanks. Here is my works' Email address: [email protected]
Just wanted to let you know I speak with an electrolarynx device. It sounds robotic, like Ned on South Park, so don't think it's some kind of prank.
Thanks, Speak to you soon.
 
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