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Discussion Starter #1
I have rebuilt engines, created entire wiring looms, diagnosed and fixed the auto air system in my Z. DO YOU THINK I CAN HANG A F***IN DOOR IN MY GARAGE SO IT OPENS AND CLOSES PROPERLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THREE DAYS OF ****, SAWDUST, BUYING TOOLS >>>>>>>>AUGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG I HATE DOORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

.................................Now back to your regular programing.............................

I did however get the 3 guage din mounted from COS and it looks good. The VDO gauges are back ordered so it will be a while before the dash is back together. Other than that the winter projects are getting checked off. 1 piece driveshaft is installed, the front and rear upper adjustable links are in, the dash guage rings are in after destroying the clear dash pod lens. All in all its progressing nicely. Still looking for a good body shop for the repaint.

MaxDoc
 

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I here ya Jim, are you installing a new big door or a side regular door?

I am working on adding a 12 foot extention to my garage, carpentry isn't my thing either.

Good luck!!!
 

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Doors are easy just make sure you ahve the plumb and square. After that do not pack an outside door (entry) with too much insulation as to put it on a bind.
 

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lol, well MaxDoc, if you turn the ignition on and simultaneously hold down the hinges while putting your cordless drill in reverse, that will put into the door hanging diagnostic mode. Just read the codes and work from there. set clutch on drill to .48V.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Its a STUPID.....

side door that leads from the garage into my mud / laundry room. Its only 78.5" tall and the width depends on where you measure. My brother-inlaw is a contractor and just laughed when I told him what I was doing. He won't hang a door in an existing doorframe. He told me its much better to get a pre-hung door and just tear out the casing. Davey my friend my prayers are definatly with you on the garage extension. I leared my lesson.
I will NEVER do this again.
MaxDoc
 

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Warning... Threadjack.

Anything special in doing the wiring loom? I'm thinking of rebuilding my wiring harness from scratch... I've got the time and patience. It doesn't take any specialty shielded wires does it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well plan on a LOT of time...

Yes there are shielded leads on the TPS, CAS, O2s, Knock Sensor, and PTU. Your best bet is to salvage as much from the existing harness as possible. On the Z the primary electrical problems are usually caused by the terminals. Rarely will there be an issue "inside" the loom. I would start replacing the harness terminals rather than creating the loom.

In my case I used two KA harnesses and an SR harness to create a new loom for the 240sx. I did not want to try and "splice and dice" as I wanted to run the leads in a way that would enable me to service any system by simply unplugging a section that needed attention as well as locate the PTU in an area that I wanted close to the ECU. You will also have to solder all connections. If you plan on using butt splices etc forget doing it at all as the car will not run correctly or for long.

MaxDoc
 

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Ehh I helped make (ok mainly drank and watched) a full on wiring harness for a 280zx this weekend wasnt to bad as long as you have some spare time and can soder. Then again this was after ditching all of the stock EFI system and putting in a standalone fuel management system.
 

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Oh, Maxdoc, not sure if you noticed, but I added to my other post about the PTU's. The testing in the 93+FSM is incorrect. Zedx's good PTU tests the same as mine.
 

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Jim,

You said that you installed the gauge rings, and destroyed the clear plastic. How are you replacing/repairing it? I have a 90, and I bought the bezel rings also, and the clear plastic apears to be glued on, it has cracked while trying to separate it. What can I do?

Also, post pics when you get your 3 gauge pod installed with gauges. I'm looking to put the same pod in my Z.

Thanks,

Mike
(Iodonzs)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey there Mr. Mike!!!

Yeah I feel your pain....snapped my lens at the last corner. I ended up ordering a lens unit from COZ that fits the TT (Open Back) then used my dremmel with a thin cutting disk to cut just under the lens where it attaches to the housing and removed it from the housing. I gently removed the remaining bits of the housing and installed it in my 90 housing. It was a PITA but the new lens looks sooooo good.
MaxDoc
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmmm....The yellow lab rat ...

is currently in pieces anyhow so I will run a test on mine using both a OHM meter and voltmeter with a continunity setting to see if that is your situation.
MaxDoc
 

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Re: Hmmm....The yellow lab rat ...

I'm not quite following you Jim.

I understand that you bought a new lense. Did the lense have the tabs that attatch it to the gauge cluster? If so, are these what you cut off with your dremel? Did you glue it to the cluster? What do you mean by "open back"?

Do you want to do mine? : )


Iodonzs
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mr. Mike.......

The gauge lens from COZ is different than ours. On your cluster the lens is attached by glue to a black housing that has a back on it with the gauge holes molded in. This one piece unit attaches to the white gauge mounting housing.
Newer years and TT are actually 3 pieces. You have the white gauge mounting piece a black "backing" that has the gauge holes that surround the gauges moulded in that is attached to the white piece with screws, and finally the lens piece that has a black housing with the clear lens glued to the black housing that secures to the black "backing" with locking tabs.
What I did is to take a cutting disk on a dremmel and cut the black lens housing that I got from COZ where the lens is glued to in the corners just flush with the clear lens where it is glued to the black housing. It takes time and a steady hand. Once I seperated the clear lens from the black lens housing I had to clean off some remaining black housing and glue the new clear lens to my old housing.
Let me know if I can help in any other way!
MaxDoc
 
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