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This stuff was getting a little buried, so I thougt I'd bring it back to the top.

>On the K & N, is there any difference in >performance between the ram air set-up and just >replacing the stock filter? $125 seems like a >chunk of change for a pipe. I guess if that >includes the filter we're more in the $75 range. >I've already removed the serpentine snorkel.

I don't know. I don't run fuel injection. The stock system is quite restrictive however, so any change to allow the engine to breathe better is going to result in more hp. Steve Graber has some good ideas regarding adapting a large K&N filter with PCV pipe. Alot cheaper than the $125 you quoted, and it looked pretty slick. I think he has a webpage, just ask and he'll help you out. Someone else made on with a aluminum pipe, but I forget who it was.

>Also, I can't seem to get rid of a ticking in my >valves. I'm wondering if it could be a small >exhaust leak, instead of valve train noise. If >the valves are adjusted, what else in the valve >train could be ticking? Any ideas?

A lot of us have this problem. I think it's the way the OHC is designed. No matter how I adjust my valves, the ticking remains.

Here's my guess as to why this happens. One thing to note here, is that I haven't noticed any mechanical/performance problems associated with the ticking. I think this is due to the way the cam rides on top of the rockers, instead of sitting below the rockers (like a HONDA). As the cam lobe rotates past the rockers, the spring pressure causes them to slap back up onto the cam. I don't think it's the sound of a valve ticking in the head, I think it's the rocker hitting the cam. Maybe someone else has some ideas/suggestions. The chain might be causing some noise as well.
Remember, another car that has the infamous ticking sound is a Porsche. It is normal for them, so I don't see why some ticking wouldn't be normal for the Z. Of course they are air cooled [at least used to be :( ] so that contributes to some of the sound.
 
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