Dude just because you have coilovers, doesn't make you a racer. **** my 280 Z has coilovers up front and I don't race it. It looks better, allows you to fit wider wheels w/o rubbing against the suspension, and you can totally adjust it to ANY height you want, so if you want 1.8", or 2.3", or .9", whatever you want. Ground Control and Modern Motorsports sell kits for like right at $400...and I think Arizona Z cars is a little bit more but you get to choose your spring rate, not sure if MM does that or not.
Another lowering question
I did a bunch of searches but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.
I just purchased a very nice '70. The PO put on 15x7 Panasports with 205/60/15s. There's about a 2.5" gap between the top of the wheel and the bottom of the lip of the fender.
I want to lower the car about 2" but don't need to go the coilover route (not going to go racing).
A couple questions:
1. Can I just purchase new strut inserts with a shorter body so that when I install lowering springs, I'll still have about the same amount of travel? If so which and approx. how much?
2. Which springs would you recommend and what rate? I don't mind a moderately stiff ride. I'll be taking it to the track once in a while but I don't want it to be bone jarring.
3. I only have about 2.5" of travel between the top of the strut body and the rubber bump stop. Therefore, I don't want to just purchase lowering springs.
Thanks,
Jim
I just purchased a very nice '70. The PO put on 15x7 Panasports with 205/60/15s. There's about a 2.5" gap between the top of the wheel and the bottom of the lip of the fender.
I want to lower the car about 2" but don't need to go the coilover route (not going to go racing).
A couple questions:
1. Can I just purchase new strut inserts with a shorter body so that when I install lowering springs, I'll still have about the same amount of travel? If so which and approx. how much?
2. Which springs would you recommend and what rate? I don't mind a moderately stiff ride. I'll be taking it to the track once in a while but I don't want it to be bone jarring.
3. I only have about 2.5" of travel between the top of the strut body and the rubber bump stop. Therefore, I don't want to just purchase lowering springs.
Thanks,
Jim
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OK here's an option. Are you mechanically inclined? Shorter inserts will only work if the strut housing ( the tube that the strut insert goes into ) has also been shortened. So, what you can do is shorten your front housings to accept the shorter inserts, but when the 1 1/2" inches are removed, have them removed below the spring perch so that it brings the car down 1 1/2" with it. Then with some lowering springs it should put you right where you want to be. The shortening of the housing is also done when you get coil overs, but there are other things done like completely removing the spring perch, which you won't need to do.
Let me know if you have more questions and I'll get into it further.
By the way, I have DONE this on my daily driver and it works. ( for the nay sayers )
Post Edited (Oct 29, 9:25am)
Let me know if you have more questions and I'll get into it further.
By the way, I have DONE this on my daily driver and it works. ( for the nay sayers )
Post Edited (Oct 29, 9:25am)
Strut inserts are only one length. They must fit snugly in the strut casing or they'll rattle around like marbles every time you hit a bump. The only way to lower is with springs. Get an aftermarket set of springs (recommended) or cut a coil or two off the existing springs (not recommended by most I would think)
Or coilovers....hmmmm $400......hmmmmm....
Or coilovers....hmmmm $400......hmmmmm....
.........ahem .... you can also always just cut one or two coils off your existing spring on this '70 and acheive the result you want in appearance. Simply remove the existing spring with your trusty Coil Spring Compressor and AIR GRIND or HACK SAW away. Have fun.
Yep. Just cut your exsisting springs. Start with 1/2 a turn of the coil, or maybe 1 full coil cut should do a 1/2" drop. However, dropping the car effects the chamber. You might need to grind the slots in the three mounting holes on top of the strut tower in order to straighten out the wheels.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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