I should have saved them when the getting was good
I'll keep trying and do my best.
I certainly enjoyed the articles.
Heck the manometer was just a 2liter pop bottle with coloured water, a long clear rubber hose and a yard stick stuck in the bottle with the hose taped to it. I think a 1" change was a 1/10th psi variation.
They measured infront and behind air filter box on audi at different rpms. There was ~ 20" difference at 7000rom.
Some mods resolved the loss but then their turbo got messed up and the thing started to detonate and perform poorly... seems like the restriction was built in by Audi!!!
Some mods resolved the loss but then their turbo got messed up and the thing started to detonate and perform poorly... seems like the restriction was built in by Audi!!!
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More likely they didn't have a way or know how to compensate for the extra air. I seriously think when people say they installed a 60mm TB and a bigger AFM on a Z and didn't see any difference, that's what is going on. The extra air will lower performance if you don't add some fuel to go with it.
Not always. I sure wouldn't count on it doing it for you "automatically". If the AFM is already at it's max reading at the stock WOT, more air isn't going to register anything. You need to have a way to monitor AF ratios or you're just guessing at what's going on when you start modding with EFI. Many systems have a WOT map in the ECU they use and assume the engine is stock. Unless you jack up the fuel pressure, it's going to go lean with more air.
This is a HUGE mistake the Honda (and the gen 3 RX-7 turbo..) guys do. Their cars have a digitally programed fuel map and when you add a CIA etc, it just leans the engine out. On the honda, it just slows them down, on the RX-7 turbo, it spits the apex seals into the front converter. ;-)
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