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Okay, i'm an idiot some days and some days i'm a genius.. but we all have those.. how do you adjust the toe on alignment? The FSM doesn't discuss it really well on the 260. I just need to get it pointing so that its not toe in towards the inside of the car. Either that or if someone knows some other things that might be causing this let me know. thanks! oh yeah its the 260 hehe slowly but surely she'll come back to life! Hehe be the 3rd time i've reserected her... :)
 

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A bar or 2x4 with a pointer on one end and a scale on the other(a ruler clamped to the wood works well)is a simple way to do this.A tape measure works also but you will need two people for this.Jack the car up and using a scribe or pen,spin the wheel and mark a line down the center of the front tires(sometimes you get lucky and the tread pattern has a nice groove down the center).Now loosen both of the lock nuts on the tie rod ends(passenger side is standard threads the driver side is right handed)Don't move anything yet just get it loose.Center your steering rack and mark the center position or clamp it in place.Now lower the car and jounce it up and down to settle the suspension.Ad your aprox weight into the drivers seat and slide the bar or wood gauge in front of the wheels,take a measurement from the front and rear and adjust until you have 1/8inch of toe in.Some toe in helps keep things aligened when you are going down the road and the slack gets taken up in the steering.If you have a rebuilt front end 1/16inch of toe in may work better for you.Toe out is not reccommened for street use.Recheck your measurement several times then jack it back up and retorqe the lock nuts.Unless you have a pit you will find tightening these a pain laying on your back with no room to work with,so get them snug then jack up the car and retorqe.This method depends on your skill and patience so unless this is just a temporay thing to get you to a aligment shop remember it may take you a few tries to get this right.This method is acurate IF you do your part.
 

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The "Bar & Pointer " method works for me also. Take your measurements at 'center hub' height for an accurate reading. I have my pointers, a rectangle of sheet metal cut in half on the diagonal to form triangles, set to hub height. One triangle is fixed, the other is slightly adjustable.

I pen a letter 'T' on the center of each front tire and roll the car until this 'T' is at hub height on the REAR of the front tires. I set up my pointers on the vertical bar of the 'T' and lock the pointer in place (the distance between front tires on centers is roughly 54" if I remember right).

Roll the car forward and check the 'T' with the pointers at hub height on the FRONT of the front tires. The difference can be up to 1/8" max. less in the FRONT than the REAR of the front tires.

A smooth level floor surface is best. Doing it at home will save you time, money and the damage done at alignment shops.

RLS30
 

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Hehehehe..*giggles*
You dont know much do you dear.....kidding....Im haveing so much fun!stephen 74 260z wrote:
>
> Okay, i'm an idiot some days and some days i'm a genius.. but
> we all have those.. how do you adjust the toe on alignment?
> The FSM doesn't discuss it really well on the 260. I just
> need to get it pointing so that its not toe in towards the
> inside of the car. Either that or if someone knows some
> other things that might be causing this let me know. thanks!
> oh yeah its the 260 hehe slowly but surely she'll come back
> to life! Hehe be the 3rd time i've reserected her... :)
 
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