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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for your help guys (and girls of course)!!!


1. On a 73 what is required to remove the plate of metal that hold on both of the tailights? I see what appear to be rivet-like things under the hatch holding the plate on, but I am not sure how to remove them.


2. How would a person position the rotor on the distributor without the a refference? I was thinking I could remove the #1 spark plug and then rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand until I felt the piston reach its max height. Then I could put the rotor in the position to fire for #1 and adjust from there with the car running.


3. I have never owned a carbed car before and have to ask IF the car where to ever run out of gas what is the procedure to get it stated again? I hear that you have to pour gas into the carborator. Is this true?

Thanks again, I hope to have this car ready for the road soon...
 

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1-dunno
2-dunno
3-When my '83 Ford (HEY! it was my FIRST CAR!! ;) ) ran outta gas, which happened often bc the fuel gauge was broken, i usually just cranked the sucker til she started. It took a minute or so, pumping the gas all the while, but it worked. You could put the gas in the carb, jus' be careful to put the lid on and screw it down just a bit in the case that it backfires. I caught my GMC Jimmy's single point on fire several times while trying to get it to start and it is much like a carb
sorry couldn't help more

weylin
1979 280ZX
 

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Re: Tail Light Panels:

These are 3 separate pieces, Left, Center and Right. They are held to the car with the plastic rivets holding the top edge to the rear panel of the car, and sheet metal edge grip clamps. The center piece is also held in place by the License Plate Lamp and the License Plate.

To remove the plastic rivets push the little plastic pin insert in the center all the way THROUGH the rivet, DO NOT LOSE THESE, unless you have replacement rivets w/ inserts.

(A friend of mine suggested drilling a real small hole and tapping for a small screw to aid in pulling them out, haven't yet done so, but the idea seems sound.)

Once the pin is out, gently pull up on the outer ring of the rivet. As you pull on it, it will re-compress the split below, and allow you to remove the rivet.

Pull straight back on the lower edge of the panel to remove it from the spring clips. These can get really corroded and rusty over time, and they might break so go easy. The "scratching" sensation you'll have is because they have "teeth" that bite into the metal panel.


Re: Distributor placement

Don't forget that being a 4 cycle engine, the piston passes the top most point in it's travel TWICE. Once to compress and detonate and the next to clear exhaust and draw fresh gas.

I'm sure the true engine wizards on this page will comment, alas I'm but a poor apprentice on engine wizardry. (shades of W. Disney's Fantasia)

Re: Out of Fuel condition

I would add gas to the tank, then go ahead and crank the engine for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to self prime. If you wanted to, you could probably use Starting Fluid like Ether, but I wouldn't recommend POURING gas into the carburator.

Again, I would defer to the engine wizards. (brooms back to the closet)
 

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1. already answered 2. You are right on only you may have trouble turning the engine by hand with the rest of the pluggs still installed. When you turn the engine over by hand , hold your finger over the number one hole then you will know when it is on the compression stroke. 3. DONT TRY TO POUR FUEL INTO THE CARBS !! Your 73 may have a electric pump , mine does , if you run out of gas just turn the key and wait a few sec. and the pump will fill the float bowls and you are good to go. If you only have a mechanical pump let it self prime by turning over the engine with the starter. If you are using starting fluid just give it a shot tn the front of the air cleaner intake. Gary Portland Ore
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a lot guys... I may be adept with things mechanical but i am inept with automobiles. This is my first car and would like to have it in some sort of running shape in the next month and a half. If not, oh well.
 
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