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Hello, all!

Just joined to try to help out the boy on his Z and to post some thoughts...

You all have been very helpful and presented excellent ideas. I really wish I had more auto tranny experience as I feel this is the core of the problem.

If the fins of the torque converter were damaged or sheared off, would it lock up after a certain load?

JC > I think we pulled the stick and no burnt smell but I think I would of noticed metal shavings but I can't remember specifically looking for it so maybe take a look when you get a chance.

The swap is a matter of $, but more so finding the donor...so...for now...
Let's get a new torque converter a try that.

Process of elimination works great with a blank check, not so good with a blank stare...

We'd only be out, what, $150 or so, I don't know how available the 4n71b is, family year, will the non-turbo tranny work with your turbo?

Do some homework on that, I'll be in town tomorrow for a chat. Maybe we can do some picking.

Thanks all for the help, I know this thread is going off on a few tangents, but I think the focus is now the tranny.

The engine revs like the Nagasaki Whiny Boi that it is, sounds really good (In Park, not moving). it has some vac leaks, but does not stumble out on revving.
It does not stumble out or sound like it is missing when it dies out, it just revs down to a stall. The noisy part is what leads me to think it is trans related.

I'll take Torque Converters for $150, Alex....
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I took it into my sister husband's dads place, and he ran a vaccumm test on it which was jumpy (which it still misses, so that I figured) but hes saying that it's possible I got bad or cracked valve seals, so that could be an issue. I'm not sure how viable it is considering the visual condition of the valves, but I am at limited expiereanced. Going to be doing a compression test tomorrow, I'll go to the fsm and look up the numbers I should get
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Not sure if anyone's still following this or is interested anymore, but I just got the car back, new dizzy ignition coil wires and plugs, idle cleaned up misses alot less but still same issue, and now the spark plugs are fouling really bad. I just switched out the maf to a cali spec one that was in good condition, and now the car sputters and backfires and misses like crazy at idle. Bad ecu? Or bad maf? I can rev it, although I haven't revved it too high with how its operating now Nd no tachometer still.
 

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I haven't looked at the AT section of FSM for a couple of weeks, but have you checked the controls on the side of the transmission and the theory behind the sequence of internal valve controls. You may have a faulty solenoid or internal valve. I think the manual shift internal sequence changes from auto mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I have not, I haven't had it for a few weeks and just got it back. I'm about to get another ecu to try this coming paycheck, but I'll check out the fsm on how to test those items
 

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Not sure if anyone's still following this or is interested anymore, but I just got the car back, new dizzy ignition coil wires and plugs, idle cleaned up misses alot less but still same issue, and now the spark plugs are fouling really bad. I just switched out the maf to a cali spec one that was in good condition, and now the car sputters and backfires and misses like crazy at idle. Bad ecu? Or bad maf? I can rev it, although I haven't revved it too high with how its operating now Nd no tachometer still.
"new dizzy", I am assuming this means you replaced the distributor. Did you set the timing?

What do your fouling plugs look like? Is it a dry carbon soot? Carbon soot would indicate running rich.

I believe there are several people on this site who would be willing to offer advice, but this thread/vehicle is a complicated mess. You don't let us know what tests you have run, or at least not the results of those tests. We only have the information you give us. A few messages back you said you were going to run a compression test, because of suggestion of cracked intake valves seats (possible, but intake vacuum leak more probable), did you run the test? What were the results? We need to know the current state of the engine/car in entirety.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Totally my bad, I'm getting ahead of myself. I haven't had the car for weeks, was getting tested at someone's house. Compression came back 160 across the board, vacuum leak isn't messing with idle or rev can't actually confirm the vac leak either. The fouling issue is a rich condition, though in my perspective not too bad. The dizzy is in a different position from when I last saw it, so I believe they set timing. I'm going to get my father to help me time it properly and teach me. I'm currently waiting on a paycheck for a new ecu to try out, see if that gets it. But I do agree that it has been a bit of a mess and I apologize for my patchy way of describing problems. We have done a compression test which tested good, we have done a fuel pressure test before the rail which tested good, they re grounded my math to the body for it because they say that I have badwgrounns everywhere but when I did it the test I got a reading of 2.2 ohms across the board. Also when I ran a diagnostic system on my ECU, I was only ever getting the fuel pump code which I tighten second relay so that would explain that. But when they test they said is that they're getting multiple I'm not sure if they got laundry
 

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A note from an old post on timing:
Adjustment is made with a timing light and rotating the distributor so that the notch on the crankshaft pulley aligns with the pointer.

There are seven notches, in 5 degree increments, on the crankshaft pulley. As it turns clockwise (looking from the front), the first notch that comes to the pointer is the 30 degree BTDC notch. So the third notch from the right is the 20 degree mark, the correct timing for my car ('85 turbo). (I painted this notch with white liquid paper, or you can fill in the notch with a white crayon.) This continues in 5 degree increments until the notch furthest to the left, which is TDC.

Hope this is helpful.

Don
 

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A 2.2 Ohm resistance in the grounds of your car is far too high. If you have 2 Ohm resistance in the ground for a 10 amp circuit (Ohm's Law V = I x R) that would have a 20 volt drop across the ground. However, this is a 12 volt system, and that circuit will be at low voltage and quite likley fail. The Z31s electronics will not tolerate low voltage situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Yeah, I've read they hate low voltages in any form, but wouldn't there be massive failures because of a high resistance? And I appreciate the note on timing, I just need to get the light than, write up is easy enough to follow. But all my power units work except for locks, and I don't notice any other conditions than what's been previously mentioned.
 

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You are having massive failures! Why does your engine miss? Why doesn't it have any power? This does not happen with a correctly operating electronically controlled fuel Injected engine. Your ignition system is suspect. The fuel injection system is suspect. You are planning to replace the ECU. There is something seriously wrong with your engine management system.

Or, it could be a voltage problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Not that it doesn't have power, it just won't go over 10 miles an hour. Revs down to a stall. It has enough power to burn out. Missing is partly cause my exhaust isn't hooked up right, and I'm not sure if the fouling issue is stil pertinent since I changed the maf. I replaced the distributor, cas, coil wires and plugs. I've drippdd and drained my tank and cleaned my injectors and replaced all hoses on the rail, fuel pressure checked good as well. I can run this thing all day in parl and neutral and If I keep it under ten. Since you stated my resistance is too high (currently without voltmeter to check recent), what should be the proper reading, and how would one go about fixing it? I've gone through my grounds once already and cleaned them off with a wire brush. I definitely appreciate all the help and patience, I know my way of speaking is a little haphazardly
 

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Your grounds should measure 0 ohms. Low voltage systems, a car at 12 volts, carry far too much current to allow any parasitic resistance in connections. Power/Ground connections need to be bare clean metal on bare clean metal held firmly together. A little "Dielectric Grease" on the connection surfaces can help avoid future corrosion. The ground strap/wire should be in good shape, no brittle, discolored copper. With a Z31, the ground strap from the battery to the car chassis is critically important.

Load testing the system looking for voltage drops is a better way of testing powers and grounds. Many good Youtube videos on load testing. I like the guy at "South Main Auto Repair".
 

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Discussion Starter #76
I appreciate the info, I'll check into the load test, see if we can't find a electrical gremlin or not
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Yeah, it's just the exhaust leak is because I didn't put my cat back on right and it's not flush, maybe better off without it till I get it in there right
 
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