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Discussion Starter #41
I actually haven't tried that yet, when driving it will go into 2nd before cutting off. I'll Jack it up in the afternoon and post what I find.
 

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I know of the wire you're speaking of, I've read it's a purple one on the eccs. Also I haven't had a pressure reading for my fuel yet for lack of a gauge, and when my father comes down this weekend I believe we were going to se my time just to knock that just in case out of the way. And with the drive flow chart is that on the eccs as a diagnostic mode?
The EFEC book of the factory service manual has a Diagnostics and Self-Diagnosis sections.
Self-diagnosis is on how to run the built in ECCS checks and some help with the results.
Diagnosis is the start of the ECCS diagnosis methods.

I have never owned an AT version of this car. No knowledge at all on their oddities.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Oh yeah if you're talking about the blinking lights for the eccs I've done that and it doesn't say anythings acting up except the fuel pump because I have a second relay wired in
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Well I did the off the ground test, and it still cuts off at 10mph. There's also quite a bit of noise that's comes from the tranny
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I don't think it will, but the tranny appears to be an apparent issue and I planned on doing a swap eventually regardless, and I'm not convinced a misfire could cause it to react in this fashion considering how solid it runs when not under load. I still haven't been able to conclude 100% what the issue is, so its process of elimination rather than fixing whats wrong at this point. I'll probably look into cutting the speed limiter wire as well just to take action against all possibilities that could be causing this issue. Main benefit out of all this is getting expiereanced with my vehicle!
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I have, it will shift from 1sr to second to drive and all through those ranges with no issues other than noise
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Yeah, it's a clunking noise. My father thought it was the u joint but I wiggled the drive shaft and it was solid. It cranks if you let off the throttle abruptly after it cuts off
 

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Yeah, it's a clunking noise. My father thought it was the u joint but I wiggled the drive shaft and it was solid. It cranks if you let off the throttle abruptly after it cuts off
What does that mean? The engine cranks over on the starter if you hit the throttle after the engine shuts off?

Please try that again with more detail - I can't make sense of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Oh that was autocorrect. It was supposed to be "it clunks if you let off the throttle abruptly". Sounds like metal hitting metal with good force.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I have not, the engine doesn't seem to move in an auspicious or suspect way that would have lead me to check them. But how would one check them properly
 

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Open the hood, observe the engine while it's running. Have an assistant hold the brakes firmly and put the shifter in D, then tap the throttle and release - tap and release - while you look for engine movement and listen for clunks. Bad motor mounts can allow excessive movement and the engine will move farther than it should. When it falls back into position it may make a noise. Be safe so the vehicle doesn't move.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Alright, thank you for the informative write up. My father dropped by for a bit so I ran it for him to observe, and like you both have said he and my mom immediately noticed the motor mounts were indeed shot. I did a burnout (not the best way I know but effective) and he said the engine itself is fine and wouldn't drag it to where it wouldn't operate, but there is noticable vac leaks which I suspected anyway. Its alot of good progress were making, and things I feel I have been concluded as issues that need rsolvement are: motor mounts for sure .b) vac test to find and plug whatever leaks exist c.) Transmission conversion for noise from tranny and because, well manual uber alles. This all may not resolve this not able to exceed 10mph issue, but it sure as **** will narrow down the list of possibilities I think.
 

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If you have a broken motor mount, TAKE IT EASY on acceleration!! Don't stomp that pedal, treat it gently so you won't tear up the divetrain by moving the engine out of position while accelerating.

Get those mounts fixed first; they're not difficult at all. You need to support the engine while you're working on the mounts.

Until you replace them, take it easy on the car and don't break things.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Definitely! Thank you much for the advice on previous experience, I'll baby it from now on till I get it fixed. Luckily I made friends with someone who has a shop and engine lift, so now I gotta figure out how to get it there. I'll be messaging the guy I bought the car from, he has a lot with like 20 zs and zx. So hopefully **** have a donor car for the tranny and a radiator, then while that's going on I'll do the mounts and hopefully be able to take out the engine to fix and vac leaks. Paint my engine bay too haha. These are high hopes, I'm just hoping I can reach these goals shortly haha. I really hate driving this pt loser. Mopar, more problems!
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Still at a standstill with this one, just messed with the speed limiter whire and came back with no change in results, I'm not sure if its electrical like the ecu getting a bad reading (diagnostic says all is good) or what, I would think any air or vac issues would be prominent with or without load, which my issues only pertain under load after 10mph. Got plans to be going to canada and would live to be able to use this.
 
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