ZCar Forum banner

21 - 40 of 78 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Thanks! I did notice air whooshing by the throttle body injector area of the manifold when I rev it, but smoke tests are super expensive it appears. But I have my FSM on standby, and I recently cleaned the maf with brake cleaner and the engine seemed to respond a bit better. But I'll get the voltmeter to it according to the fan and post the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
I had tried that a few days ago, along with doing the same process to the automatic transmission control unit with no change in results. It operates fine in all categories except when the speedometer registers 10mph+ and I just don't know where to proceed. I'll try your recommendation again since I got my pt cruiser turbo fan running again
Have you tried disconnecting the speedometer? I have no idea what kind of signal it sends the ECU, but the idea does occur to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
The thought has crossed my mind as well, I know its connected at the transmission so I can see what kind of disconnecting I'm able to do. There's alot of blood hungry bugs out tonight so I'm not sure how much I'll be able to get done, but since I'm a nonessential I got all the time right now haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
After doing some reading, I have realized that turbos have a speed limiter that makes the car cap out at 137mph, is it possible this is faulty and limiting my car to only 10 or too far fetched?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
So I'm either reading this wrong or misunderstanding, or it's written wrong. But the FSM says to test resistance between c and ground and d and ground, on the afm I get no reading at all and on the harness side I get 3.0 for c and 28.4 for d, I checked the only ground it appears to run too and it looked good and I cleaned it anyway, but no changes in reading. I've attached the diagnostic page on the afm from my fsm for reference.
Screenshot_20200408-095457_Drive.jpg
106811
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Ok so I was able to proceed with testing properly, when racing the engine it only varies 1.5 volts or so at which point I would conclude my afm being ok
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
899 Posts
Probably not your issue but, if the alternator is failing or lost connection, then you are running just on what's left in the battery, which will give all kinds of problems. Depending on the battery, it can actually start the car and run for days, but at low voltage and degraded performance, until it finally is drained completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
It's a good idea, I cant remember right now but I know last time my father was here there was something that made him believe that my alternator is all good. I did just replace the belts on it as well, but I charge the battery once a week and it's only a few months old and I'm getting good voltage where it's supposed to ready batt voltage. 13.7-12.6 most places that run battery voltage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
I'll take anything anyone has to offer right now, cause between 3 forums 2 fb groups and anyone else I've talked to about it, none has a clue towards a definite answer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
It's a good idea, I cant remember right now but I know last time my father was here there was something that made him believe that my alternator is all good. I did just replace the belts on it as well, but I charge the battery once a week and it's only a few months old and I'm getting good voltage where it's supposed to ready batt voltage. 13.7-12.6 most places that run battery voltage
If you're seeing 12.6 to 13.7 volts across the battery terminals with the engine running, your charging system is the problem. Charging at less than 14V right after startup is not enough to keep the car running and battery charged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
I haven't checked it at the terminals itself, these are on wires and terminals that are supposed to have battery voltage (not sure if I'm misunderstanding), and since its 12v I assumed as long as im seeing that number im good. Cause if I had a issue with low voltage would I notice that revving the engine or the lights flickering when I turn the car over? Cause everything operates as it should In my opinion, although my experience is limited. Do you know the proper voltage I'm supposed to be reading? I'll look in my fan real quick to see if it has a number for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
899 Posts
When there is low voltage it is usually pretty apparent. Voltage warning light, dim lights, instrument panel flickering, very slow wipers, stuff like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Okay that's what I thought, I have none of those issues. I also tested resistance on my engine and body grounds the other day and they were all the same. I cleaned the dirty ones anyway and covered exposed wires for the started ground with electrical tape just in case it was a issue. But my lights don't flicker when starting the car even. So I think that's all good, I mean it sat outside in florida weather for the past 5 years but everything does seem to be in good shape (for 120k mi), it's just this wacky issue. It would be awesome if it was only acting up under load, but it'll drive till 10mph, but also do a burnout. And in park and neutral it's perfect. Only thing I can lean towards is the sound of sir that's coming from the plenum, but I've read other people still being able to get to 4th gear with that so cant be entirely my issue but definitely influencing it I would imagine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
Your car doesn't actually operate at 12V. When it's running, the alternator should put out a constant 14V.

The simple test is to touch the multimeter contacts to the battery terminals. With the car off you should see a bit over 12V, probably around 12.4 volts. If not, your battery is partially discharged. Most cars won't start if the battery is under 11V.

With the car running, check voltage on the battery terminals. If you don't have around 14.4V, your alternator or other parts of the system are NOT working right. If you see anything in the 12V range, your alternator is not working.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
When reading through this thread, I could never decide if your engine is being limited to a slow speed by the control system, or if you engine is unable to produce power.

If the the ECCS is incorrectly limiting the speed of your vehicle, this is a turbo only option, and I have no real experience with the turbo model. So from the FSM, the Vehicle Speed Sensor is intended to limit the speed of you vehicle to 200 KPH (137 MPH). The ECU will turn off the injectors to limit vehicle speed. I would read up on this item, and perhaps see what disconnecting it does.

If it is an engine power situation, you are working your way down the right path.
  • Check you fuel pressure, I did not see anything in thread on this.
  • Have you check the cars ignition timing? I can't imagine the timing being off enough to cause the problems being described, but the car does need to be timed using a timing light and setting the distributor.
  • Run the ECUs self diagnostic. This will usually give one a list of sensors/systems to work on.
  • The Driveability flow chart is a good general list of things to check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
I know of the wire you're speaking of, I've read it's a purple one on the eccs. Also I haven't had a pressure reading for my fuel yet for lack of a gauge, and when my father comes down this weekend I believe we were going to se my time just to knock that just in case out of the way. And with the drive flow chart is that on the eccs as a diagnostic mode?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,191 Posts
This may be a repeat, but have you read thru the FSM AT chapter?
file:///C:/Users/daves/AppData/Local/Temp/Temp1_1987%20FSM.zip/1987%20FSM/AT.pdf
And i don't think this has been asked and may not be useful. When you had the rear wheels off the ground spinning like crazy, did the tranny ever shift out of 1st gear with no load on the tranny?
 
21 - 40 of 78 Posts
Top