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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 1983 280ZX that has been sitting for a long time. I know a little about cars and engines but not much. I replaced all the rubber fuel line, filters, and fuel pump. That got it running. It has a 'skip' in the engine which is most noticeable when accelerating. I believe an injector may be clogged or malfunctioning. Is there a way to be sure or chek which one?? Is there a rebuild kit available?? The other problem I ran into the other night. While coming home my poor Z just died on me! It sounded like the fuel pump was laboring. If you gave it gas it would backfire and try to shut off. I checked the intake filter located in the gas tank and it appears to be ok. Someone posted something about a fuel regulator?? When you turn the ignition to the on position you hear the fuel pump pressurize the fuel line, but it sounds a bit labored and really low pitch. Normally it sounded high pitched. Can anyone help with some ideas?? THANKS!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well if it has been sitting for a while, the injectors do tend to get clogged, but a good cleaning should help. As for the skip, you may want to look at the AFM. There is a black cover on the side of it. Pop it off and spray some contact spray to it. Make sure you are getting a good contact on the full spectrum of the meter.

Later,
LuZifer
'83 turbo project

> I recently purchased a 1983 280ZX that has
> been sitting for a long time. I know a
> little about cars and engines but not much.
> I replaced all the rubber fuel line,
> filters, and fuel pump. That got it running.
> It has a 'skip' in the engine which is most
> noticeable when accelerating. I believe an
> injector may be clogged or malfunctioning.
> Is there a way to be sure or chek which
> one?? Is there a rebuild kit available?? The
> other problem I ran into the other night.
> While coming home my poor Z just died on me!
> It sounded like the fuel pump was laboring.
> If you gave it gas it would backfire and try
> to shut off. I checked the intake filter
> located in the gas tank and it appears to be
> ok. Someone posted something about a fuel
> regulator?? When you turn the ignition to
> the on position you hear the fuel pump
> pressurize the fuel line, but it sounds a
> bit labored and really low pitch. Normally
> it sounded high pitched. Can anyone help
> with some ideas?? THANKS!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What's the deal with the LuZifer name

> Well if it has been sitting for a while, the
> injectors do tend to get clogged, but a good
> cleaning should help. As for the skip, you
> may want to look at the AFM. There is a
> black cover on the side of it. Pop it off
> and spray some contact spray to it. Make
> sure you are getting a good contact on the
> full spectrum of the meter.

> Later,
> LuZifer
>
>What makes you want to have a name similiar to Lucifer?And don't tell me your parents gave it to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
> Well if it has been sitting for a while, the
> injectors do tend to get clogged, but a good
> cleaning should help. As for the skip, you
> may want to look at the AFM. There is a
> black cover on the side of it. Pop it off
> and spray some contact spray to it. Make
> sure you are getting a good contact on the
> full spectrum of the meter.

> Later,
> LuZifer
> '83 turbo project

If you been in the EFI sytem removing parts Etc. you could have loosen on varinish etc. whick is now in the system as chunks...!!! If an injector is clogged... Take a dental pick and remove the clips from each injector put the injectors connectors back on and start the car(Mark them first 1-to 6 the cables are marked but hard to see !!!) Start the car let warm up a bit, then remve each injector connector if you find no change.. that is the problem injector.. Note
if you have to relplace and injector you must
pull apart the fuel rail plan on replacing the rubber on all the injectors and the fuel rail itself about a 4 to 6 hour job. .. You may also
want to get 2 or 3 cans of injector cleaner
tekron etc. and soak the fuel rail parts in it over night.. good luck just did this a week ago
on my 79 .. it run a whole lot better ZZZZZZ!!
 

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Re: What's the deal with the LuZifer name

All I can say its a callsign. It my be a name that put fear in some people and other they like it. Hay I take after a vampire name.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: What's the deal with the LuZifer name

I'm a devil with a Z. Behold, I sent you amongst the wolves in a sheep's clothing...

(It's just a call sign... ...you know, like the Bandit. Ever heard of 'im?

LuZifer
'83 turbo project
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have an 83 280zx, (130,xxx miles) withprecisely the same problem.
It starts up,.. barely I might add, and idles roughly with little power to accelerate, spitting and backfiring as I try. Once I manage to get it over about 3500 RPM's it takes off like it should, speeding down the highway, all the way to red-line if I want. After about 45 minutes, however, it slowly chokes itself and can't be started again until the engine cools down, (it isn't overheating, it just dies after reaching operating temperature). According to my Chilton's and Hayne's manuals, these symptoms describe a vapor-lock situation, but doesn't explain the same low-pitched bogged-down hum of the fuel pump,.... leading me to suspect that the engine warming up isn't the problem. I actually propose that maybe the fuel-pump, after warming-up, begins to give out.
I don't know about you, but I hate fishing for the problem by unneccesarily replacing part after part.
So, though I haven't quite figured out what the problem is myself, I'm certain in my case that it wasn't the fuel injectors because I recently replaced all of them. One way to check to see if your injectors aren't seized is to listen to them. Take a long screwdriver or something comparable and place the tip firmly on the top of an injector. Now press your ear to the handle,... you should hear the injector crisply snap as it fires. Try this on all of your injectors. When you are satisfied that they all are firing, begin disconnecting the wires, one injector at a time and listen to make sure the engine RPM's slow down and idles rougher. Replace the wire and the engine should return to a smooth idle. If removing the wiring from a particular injector causes little or no effect, then you probably have a bad injector,... make sure of course that you don't just have a fouled or bad spark-plug.
Another common cause of backfiring is a bad oxygen sensor, located on the exhaust header. You are supposed to replace these every 30,000 miles or so. Not a very expensive item, about $30.
Check your PCV valve and hose located under the intake manifold. You may not have to remove this, just pull the hose, (engine cold) and use something not metallic like a toothpick to push up on the ball inside. It should move up freely and then fall back down on its own. I've never replaced mine, just took it off and cleaned it with carb-cleaner once.
Your EGR valve is located near the rear of the engine. Make sure the gasket isn't leaking where it bolts to the manifold. With the engine running, (in Park) push on the accelerator while reaching under the valve. You should feel the valve open and close when you rev the engine.
I'm about to replace the pump myself, lucky I know of a wrecked ZX in the local salvage yard, (I'm cheap)! If this dramatically fixes my problem, I'll let you know.
Otherwise, good luck pal!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Eureka! It was the fuel pump!
I'm not saying its the same deal with yours (I'd try that oxygen sensor first), but you did mention that the pump sounded funny,... so that may be your next step.
Located just in front of the gas tank,... you'll have to raise the right rear end to get to the fuel pump. Taking the wheel off may help. Be careful to safely support your Z. You'll be wrestling hoses and won't want to drop the car on your head.
Just two bolts hold it on (10 mm I think),... and two hoses and an electrical connection.
The gas tank-side hose (with wire armor around it) was a real bear. First cut off the fuel supply by clamping the hose (not the wire armor) with vise-grips (or be prepared for the entire contents of your gas tank to spew all over you and the ground). I couldn't loosen the screw on the hose clamp (rusted fast) so I pried it apart with a flat-tip screwdriver. The output hose came right off (the case was the same with both my car and the junker in the salvage yard), about a cup of gas will drain from the line to the engine. By the way,... next in line from the fuel pump is that little pressure regulator doodad,... I didn't replace mine but it looks inexpensive, might as well while you're down there.
The electrical connection can be detatched from the hatch-back. Pull up your carpet and the rubber mat. A saucer-sized cover plate with two screws sits right in the middle of the floor,... the connection for the pump is about 10 inches forward of that,... just unclip it (you'll need to push the clasp in on the clip) and push the wire through the floor, rubber grommet and all. Back under the car, three clips hold the wire against the sheet metal. Voila! Its off!
I may have to replace the pump on my car again,... the car I took it from had 105,xxx miles on it,... but for $8.50 I now realize that my old pump wasn't supposed to sound like a mower in deep grass. The new-used one has a relatively quiet high-pitched whirr. The cars runs like it did when I bought it eight years ago,... when it had only 45,xxx miles on it.
Hope this helps!
 
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