ZCar Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know of any Z mechanics that do house calls in the SoCal area? I have a Z that's been sitting for awhile. Can't really drive it right now..
 

·
Super Moderator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
Can you define "a while"? If you want to try working through some things, we can probably coach you, but if it has been sitting for a few years you may need to have it flat-bedded to a mechanic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Can you define "a while"? If you want to try working through some things, we can probably coach you, but if it has been sitting for a few years you may need to have it flat-bedded to a mechanic.
About two years..it's had some stuff replaced here and there. A fuel pump, and fuel filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator and a battery.
 

·
Super Moderator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
More context helps. Were these parts replaced before it was parked, or after?

And if before, why? If before, it sounds like the owner thought there was a fuel problem. Context is important.

Two years is a short enough time that the gas in the vehicle will probably still work, although it's really old.

I'm thinking that basic tests are to make sure it's getting fuel and spark. Spark is easy - charge the battery, turn the key to start, while it's turning over trying to start pull a plug wire at the distributor and hold it 1/2" from the cap. If you see spark, you have spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
More context helps. Were these parts replaced before it was parked, or after?

And if before, why? If before, it sounds like the owner thought there was a fuel problem. Context is important.

Two years is a short enough time that the gas in the vehicle will probably still work, although it's really old.

I'm thinking that basic tests are to make sure it's getting fuel and spark. Spark is easy - charge the battery, turn the key to start, while it's turning over trying to start pull a plug wire at the distributor and hold it 1/2" from the cap. If you see spark, you have spark.
Replaced during the park and I periodically would drive it but we are talking like once a month and a short distance. The previous FPR failed and needed to be replaced, fuel pump failed needed to be replaced and the fuel filter was clogged so it needed a replacement. I do believe I have a spark since she starts up but, it's the idle and sound that doesn't inspire confidence
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Replaced during the park and I periodically would drive it but we are talking like once a month and a short distance. The previous FPR failed and needed to be replaced, fuel pump failed needed to be replaced and the fuel filter was clogged so it needed a replacement. I do believe I have a spark since she starts up but, it's the idle and sound that doesn't inspire confidence
If the fuel filter was clogged, is there rust in the fuel tank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
Thanks for the response. Hmmm...idle and sound? What about them?

Is it idling rough? Is it too high/low?

What sound? Is the oil pressure OK? At startup you should see 30+ PSI (just a guess) while the oil is cold. Once it's warm, Z-car engines idle at fairly low pressure, about 10 PSI per 1000 RPM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
That doesn’t sound too bad, other than not knowing the actual sound. I’m assuming just rough running and not knocking.

I got mine up and running pretty well after sitting around 8 years. I stopped driving it because it was wasn’t running right, had another car (was dailying it for a while), and started having kids.

Maybe 3 years ago I messed with it and drained the gas and put a little fresh in but didn’t do much beyond that. Then I had it running, poorly though, just a few months ago. Also just moved another car that has exactly 2 year old gas and it fired right up, no extra crap put in. It’s not the best for sure and the more you had in there vs air the better. Also, you can just smell it. Does it smell like gas or like varnish?

If you’re willing and able to, I’d change the filler and while doing it run the supply side to a nice clean clear or white container and just cycle the key on and off a few times to see if you getting a lot of rust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That doesn’t sound too bad, other than not knowing the actual sound. I’m assuming just rough running and not knocking.

I got mine up and running pretty well after sitting around 8 years. I stopped driving it because it was wasn’t running right, had another car (was dailying it for a while), and started having kids.

Maybe 3 years ago I messed with it and drained the gas and put a little fresh in but didn’t do much beyond that. Then I had it running, poorly though, just a few months ago. Also just moved another car that has exactly 2 year old gas and it fired right up, no extra crap put in. It’s not the best for sure and the more you had in there vs air the better. Also, you can just smell it. Does it smell like gas or like varnish?

If you’re willing and able to, I’d change the filler and while doing it run the supply side to a nice clean clear or white container and just cycle the key on and off a few times to see if you getting a lot of rust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It smells a lot like gas when it's on and chuffs smoke out. Not like pure white smoke or black smoke. I think I'll post a video soon of how it runs so everyone can hear it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I'm
Thanks for the response. Hmmm...idle and sound? What about them?

Is it idling rough? Is it too high/low?

What sound? Is the oil pressure OK? At startup you should see 30+ PSI (just a guess) while the oil is cold. Once it's warm, Z-car engines idle at fairly low pressure, about 10 PSI per 1000 RPM.
Idle isn't consistent and sometimes the car will just die. Haven't really kept an eye on oil pressure during start up but, thank you for the advice I'll keep an eye out next start up and will try to include a video of the engine running
 

·
Super Moderator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
Would I have to drain the gas to find out?
Or could I just take apart the old pump
What about the fuel filter question?? I didn't see an answer.

No, you don't have to empty the tank to see fi there's garbage coming down the fuel line.

You can always put a see-through fuel filter in the line before the factory one, and see if you accumulate gunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
What about the fuel filter question?? I didn't see an answer.

No, you don't have to empty the tank to see fi there's garbage coming down the fuel line.

You can always put a see-through fuel filter in the line before the factory one, and see if you accumulate gunk.
I believe it was clogged from what I remember. The mechanic I had take a look at it told me more than a yr ago. Sorry for the late responses. Whether or not it had rust gunk in it I honestly wouldn't be able to remember sorry fellas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I believe it was clogged from what I remember. The mechanic I had take a look at it told me more than a yr ago. Sorry for the late responses. Whether or not it had rust gunk in it I honestly wouldn't be able to remember sorry fellas.
What about the fuel filter question?? I didn't see an answer.

No, you don't have to empty the tank to see fi there's garbage coming down the fuel line.

You can always put a see-through fuel filter in the line before the factory one, and see if you accumulate gunk.
Do you reccomended a specific see-through filter? I've seen these for sale but I'm not even sure they would fit since they aren't for the ZX model and model year is way off.
108126
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
If you’re willing and able to, I’d change the filler and while doing it run the supply side to a nice clean clear or white container and just cycle the key on and off a few times to see if you getting a lot of rust.
I might have added that after I originally posted.

And that is if you don’t mind ending up smelling like gas for the afternoon. You can release the fuel pressure by running 12v to the cold start valve and tapping it a few times. About 3’ of speaker wire would work.

Not that you are going to get sprayed or dump gas everywhere, but you bound to get some on you and even being around it, the smell will soak into your clothes.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
Those filters just go into the fuel line - you cut the fuel line under the hood and insert the filter. There's no "fit" other than making sure the inlet and outlet diameters will work with your fuel line.

EDIT - don't use the clear fuel filters on a ZX.

Incidentally, before you go cutting or disconnecting any ZX fuel connection, you need to release pressure from it or you'll spray gas all over. Start the car, life the rear hatch carpet and pad, and there's a connector near the front of the pad area that goes to the fuel pump. Release the connector and let the engine stall from fuel deprivation. Easy to do!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Or do that. I liked having the extra gas in there to help flush out the lines, both from the tank and the rail side.

I also had a bunch of stuff (rust/deteriorated fuel line?) come back out from the fuel rail when disconnecting the outlet side of the filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Good idea or bad idea? Not sure but I also did a DIY fuel injector clean after seeing the junk on the upper side come back out.

I drained both the top and bottom side lines, pulled the hose off the regulator and blew the fuel back out, reconnect, re pressurized, and repeated several times. Then the last time, I sprayed a lot of non-chlorinated carb cleaner in from the regulator line and pulled the coil wire and cranked for a few and rested the starter for a few and repeated till I figured the cleaner was out. Then changed the oil.

After doing that and pulling the filter hoses again, the fuel that came back out of the rail was very black tinted which made me wonder it was coming from the deteriorating fuel lines, rust, gum/varnish, or just the black crap (bacteria) produced by ethanol “enhanced” fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
What city?
I do some of this work.
I worked on these cars when they were everywhere on the road in the 80s and 90s, for my living
$150 to show up, assess and poss diag quick.
$80 hr after that.
Written findings.
No guessing.
Advice? Purchase the dealer factory manual. A VOM, and basic tools.
— be careful on the threads I read them here and there and see a lot of people go down a lot of rabbit holes, changing a bunch of parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
What city?
I do some of this work.
I worked on these cars when they were everywhere on the road in the 80s and 90s, for my living
$150 to show up, assess and poss diag quick.
$80 hr after that.
Written findings.
No guessing.
Advice? Purchase the dealer factory manual. A VOM, and basic tools.
— be careful on the threads I read them here and there and see a lot of people go down a lot of rabbit holes, changing a bunch of parts.
Around the LA area. Yea I found a PDF for the fuel service manual I've been skimming thru. I don't think I'll end up printing it though since it's 700 pages long.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top