ZCar Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can someone please post what this is supposed to look like? I know this can’t be correct.
And where would I get replacement parts? Maybe be partially responsible for jerky throttle?
1971 built 8/71, thank you!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
From my 11/70 build date 240Z. Hope these help.
 

·
Super Moderator
1983 280ZX Turbo
Joined
·
945 Posts
Nice shots. Amazing that the throttle linkage at the dash didn't really change 1971-1983. Mine on my 280ZX is essentially identical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Nice shots. Amazing that the throttle linkage at the dash didn't really change 1971-1983. Mine on my 280ZX is essentially identical.
Can someone please post what this is supposed to look like? I know this can’t be correct.
And where would I get replacement parts? Maybe be partially responsible for jerky throttle?
1971 built 8/71, thank you!
The rubber does not belong there. It has a spring washer and cotter pin. It appears also that your fork is worn. Getting good parts will be a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I think that was right. So, it’s just spring, washer, cotter pin? You’re not kidding, Parts are going to be hard to find. That’s probably why that crap is in there from the PO. Any suggestions on where I can get a spring? And how can you tell my fork is worn? I have to say though, that it starts, runs and drives, very nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,202 Posts
Try an ACE or TruValue hardware store. You can judge how much tension the spring will be under by trying them from the bins. It doesn't have to be that "tight" or the linkage will not slide, due to temp changes or engine rocking a bit pulling on the linkage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with your throttle linkage. It is all there, and it is in good repair. Your fork is not worn, There is rubber, clips, and springs exactly where they should be, and you do not need to replace anything at all in the linkage. Everything looks exactly like it should. I think a couple of you may need some new glasses or a bigger screen on your computer possibly. The jerky throttle you're describing is caused from lack of lubrication on friction surfaces, and/or binding throttle plates due to worn throttle shaft bushings. Grab the linkage on the carbs where it's coming out of the body and see if it will wiggle up and down at idle. If it does then your shafts need to be replaced. In the meantime, use some penetrent that has a lubricant in it like CRC or Zep45. Spray it lightly on the linkage pivot points where the main shaft goes through the intake manifold, the throttle shafts on the carbs, the bell crank at the firewall, and the pivot point for the gas pedal itself. Work it a few times and make sure that everything operates smoothly.
Normally the throttle plates are supposed to open up at the same time but when the shafts and bushings get worn you need to stagger the syncronized opening of the throttle plates. You still set the throttle plate adjusting screws so the flow is matched between the carbs at idle, and to adjust when they open in relation to each other, you adjust the spring loaded screw that is on the center linkage and next to the rear carb. There is a good shot of that spring loaded screw in your Pic #4. Sometimes you have to stagger the opening a fair amount. Keep playing with it until the jerky throttle is gone. If the shafts turn out to be worn and you have the extra money to spend get some restored carbs from Z Therapy.
Now onto other things I noticed. You have to use specially rated hoses on the intake manifold. The hose coming from the valve cover, and the PCV hose on your car are heater hoses, that can cause some rather scarey conditions. You HAVE to use hoses that are PCV rated. I do sell generic hoses for the intake that are PCV, Gas, Vapor, and Oil rated so they're overkill for this application but the price is right and I sell them by the Foot. They can also be used for the brake booster hose which has to have a very stiff sidewall or it will eventually start to collapse giving you a very hard brake pedal, not a good thing either. I sell the original PCV hoses that are preformed and they're the best way to go. Take a good look at the fuel hoses going to your carbs. They should be 1/4" hoses not 5/16" hoses. I couldn't tell for sure because I couldn't see the inch numbers on your hoses and didn't feel like looking up the numbers I could see, but the OD looks like it might be a little big which could also just be cause they're in a pic. Z man of Washington 360-668-2979
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
@zmanofwashington, Thank you for such an in-depth reply. However the pictures you were referring to, are not my car. Those were put up by Datsun240z71. My lone pic is in the first post. Are you saying that rubber disc is OEM, and my fork looks okay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,202 Posts
What is the condition of the fork shaft and the bores it goes through? Also have to wonder if the rubber is restricting the movement of the arm in the slot if it may be causing some binding of the split collar on the shaft against one of the two aluminum towers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
Red67 for some reason your pic didn't show up yesterday or else I blinked when I scrolled down. I was wondering what the fuss was about rubber in the linkage. DUUUUHHH my bad and my apologies. The rubber on your linkage is not a good thing. It looks like there is a screw in there as well but it's hard to say from the pic.They can both cause a problem for sure. I have lots of the correct springs, washers, and cotter pins in stock, how many would you like? I hate shipping little items like that because it's going to cost 8.30 to ship it USPS for parts that are going to cost $7.20. How is the condition of the boot on the firewall that the linkage goes through? It also looks like the top part of the fork needs to be lightly tapped down after you get the linkage pulled out of it. Don't worry about that until you're going to put it back together correctly. If you want to buy this huge sale from me just call me on my cell at 206-363-3577. I accept all major cards and Paypal.
Now, Datsun240z71 all the things I mentioned in my previous post I cut and pasted below because those items actually pertain to your car.
You have to use specially rated hoses on the intake manifold. The hose coming from the valve cover, and the PCV hose on your car are heater hoses, that can cause some rather scarey conditions. You HAVE to use hoses that are PCV rated. I do sell generic hoses for the intake that are PCV, Gas, Vapor, and Oil rated so they're overkill for this application but the price is right and I sell them by the Foot. They can also be used for the brake booster hose which has to have a very stiff sidewall or it will eventually start to collapse giving you a very hard brake pedal, not a good thing either. I sell the original PCV hoses that are preformed and they're the best way to go. Take a good look at the fuel hoses going to your carbs. They should be 1/4" hoses not 5/16" hoses. I couldn't tell for sure because I couldn't see the inch numbers on your hoses and didn't feel like looking up the numbers I could see, but the OD looks like it might be a little big which could also just be cause they're in a pic. Make sure you let me know that you use this forum to get discounted prices by 5% to 30%. Z man of Washington Landline 360-668-2979
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thank you Zman, I will be giving you a call! Have a good Fourth of July!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
So, here’s what it is supposed to look like, but you new that. Not only was the fork tweaked, but It was skewed too! After straightening, installing new hardware, zhome bell crank mod, second throttle return springs, lubing everything that moves. It runs smooth as silk, no jerk, no run on, just perfect!
Thank you Zman, wish you would have included the black washer, to match spring, but aren’t they supposed to be cad. plated?
46EB3A3B-08E5-422B-AB27-25809E2952CD.jpeg
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top