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Discussion Starter #1
My God. So many choices. Maaco wants $1000.00 to paint entire car same color. Other dude wants $600.00 to just paint what I need painted. Changing colors with Maaco is $1100.00. Other Dude is astronomical/can't afford... Suggestions??? Stay stock or go for broke??
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Re: 78Z Paint: MAACO full job versus Paint what is

> My God. So many choices. Maaco wants
> $1000.00 to paint entire car same color.
> Other dude wants $600.00 to just paint what
> I need painted. Changing colors with Maaco
> is $1100.00. Other Dude is
> astronomical/can't afford... Suggestions???
> Stay stock or go for broke??

There's no such thing as a good, cheap paint job. Guys who do good work don't work cheap and cheap guys don't do work that's very good. You get exactly what you're willing to pay for.

As for Maaco and all the other Earl Scheib clones, I'd just as soon have a car painted by a high school shop class as an auto paint chain. Most of the chains do cars that qualify as 50 footers afterward. A closer look will tell you it's a third-rate paint job in about one second.

Changing the color of a car that isn't being stripped to the metal is a bad, bad mistake. A new paint job will never cover all the factory paint and every chip and scratch will show the color underneath. That makes the car look shabbier than any unwanted color ever could. You can change the tone of the paint's color however. My '82 coupe was originally a dull gray shade. I had it repainted a BMW silver blue and the colors blend beautifully.

There's one tried and true method of getting a bargain on a great paint job. Ask around for an experienced painter who likes to do extra jobs on weekends - the kind of jobs that put quiet cash in his pocket. Just be sure to check the guy's references before you turn him loose on your cherished Z-car. Oh, and it helps keep the price down if you strip off the trim and do at least some of the sanding on the car yourself. Good luck!
 

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Re: 78Z Paint: MAACO full job versus Paint what is

I concur with everything Slim said with one minor nit. Here's two extra cents worth. I took my '82 ZX to the shop I wanted to do the work -- I had seen other cars they painted and they were beautiful. They estimated $4,000, part of which was bodywork. I may still go to them if I ever get that flush. Another Z owner paid this shop $5,000 for his paint and the car is absolutely stunning. I don't think it looked that good on the showroom when new.

One nit I might pick with Slim is that you CAN get a good new paint finish over the original paint IF THE ORIGINAL PAINT IS IN GOOD SHAPE. That is to say, not cracked or crazed. On a somewhat related subject, my feeling is a crappy paint job detracts from the value of an otherwise good car, as a real enthusiast will know he has to take all that junk paint off before he can put a decent paint job on.

Why not contact a nearby trade school body class and see if they can do your car? I took a semester of one of these classes and we turned out some very nice work. Otherwise, try to find that guy who'll do work 'under the table' and do as much of the prep as you can yourself.
 

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What I did + pictures

> There's no such thing as a good, cheap paint
> job. Guys who do good work don't work cheap
> and cheap guys don't do work that's very
> good. You get exactly what you're willing to
> pay for.

> As for Maaco and all the other Earl Scheib
> clones, I'd just as soon have a car painted
> by a high school shop class as an auto paint
> chain. Most of the chains do cars that
> qualify as 50 footers afterward.
> A closer look will tell you it's a
> third-rate paint job in about one second.

> Changing the color of a car that isn't being
> stripped to the metal is a bad, bad mistake.
> A new paint job will never cover all the
> factory paint and every chip and scratch
> will show the color underneath. That makes
> the car look shabbier than any unwanted
> color ever could. You can change the tone of
> the paint's color however. My '82 coupe was
> originally a dull gray shade. I had it
> repainted a BMW silver blue and the colors
> blend beautifully.

> There's one tried and true method of getting
> a bargain on a great paint job. Ask around
> for an experienced painter who likes to do
> extra jobs on weekends - the kind of jobs
> that put quiet cash in his
> pocket. Just be sure to check the guy's
> references before you turn him loose on your
> cherished Z-car. Oh, and it helps keep the
> price down if you strip off the trim and do
> at least some of the sanding on the car
> yourself. Good luck!

I agree with the above and here is what I did-
Last summer I stripped the car down to bare metal piece by piece with aircraft grade stripper then etched and primed the surface...then had it painted with a 25 foot jober...it came out really good but not show car quality from about 7-10 feet away it looks perfect though..they paint job only cost my 600 bucks because I did all of the prep work including removing all trim lights glass and everything prior to painting. My Z is a daily driver and my only car so I did not need/could afford a trailer queen paint job. But boy does it turn heads....this is getting way to long feel free to e-mail me.-Tj
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bad Paint Takes a While to Spot

> I concur with everything Slim said with one
> minor nit. Here's two extra cents worth. I
> took my '82 ZX to the shop I wanted to do
> the work -- I had seen other cars they
> painted and they were beautiful. They
> estimated $4,000, part of which was
> bodywork. I may still go to them if I ever
> get that flush. Another Z owner paid this
> shop $5,000 for his paint and the car is
> absolutely stunning. I don't think it looked
> that good on the showroom when new.

> One nit I might pick with Slim is that you
> CAN get a good new paint finish over the
> original paint IF THE ORIGINAL PAINT IS IN
> GOOD SHAPE. That is to say, not cracked or
> crazed. On a somewhat related subject, my
> feeling is a crappy paint job detracts from
> the value of an otherwise good car, as a
> real enthusiast will know he has to take all
> that junk paint off before he can put a
> decent paint job on.

> Why not contact a nearby trade school body
> class and see if they can do your car? I
> took a semester of one of these classes and
> we turned out some very nice work.
> Otherwise, try to find that guy who'll do
> work 'under the table' and do as much of the
> prep as you can yourself.

Pretty much all auto paint looks great at first. That's because the hardest and riskiest parts of refinishing a car are in the metal preparation, sanding and priming, not in the masking and spraying. I've had cars and motorcycles restored to what looked like concourse condition only to have the paint jobs flake, chip, crack and peel off by the yard 3 months later.

When you find yourself in that fix, you have to strip all the bad paint off the car before you can even begin to repaint it. School shop classes are a bad bet, they don't guarantee their jobs will last. It's far better to have a professional who'll stand behind his work than a bargain that amounts up to a crap shoot.

If you have your hair cut at a barber college and you end up looking like a recent photo of Keith Richard, the problem will fix itself in a couple of weeks. Have paint slopped on your car by a pack of amateurs and you'll likely spend $4 to $5K before you get things straightened out. I know, my friends, I've been there.
 

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$1K paint max for z worth $2/3K

> My 240 is a daily driver.

I will go with $1000 paint, much easier to handle
than if I had a $5000 paint job when the jerk in the K-mart parking lot dings my z.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So Many Choices, So Few Brain Cells

I guess I will go with the expensive dude and just get painted what needs it. The Maaco guy showed me a brilliant yellow mustang in the paint bay and it looked like they sprinkled sand on it before painting. He actually strutted his stuff all over and drooled a bit.. Hmmmmmm. No Thanks.. At least I will retain the original color and get some clearcoat in the process.. Thanks for the info guys..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: So Many Choices, So Few Brain Cells

> I guess I will go with the expensive dude
> and just get painted what needs it. The
> Maaco guy showed me a brilliant yellow
> mustang in the paint bay and it looked like
> they sprinkled sand on it before painting.
> He actually strutted his stuff all over and
> drooled a bit.. Hmmmmmm. No Thanks.. At
> least I will retain the original color and
> get some clearcoat in the process.. Thanks
> for the info guys..

I think we'd all like a concours paint job, but those of us with WIVES are usually dissuaded. I was quoted $7000 for a complete stripping, undinging, and great paint job. but I've already spent $3600 on mechanicals and $1200 on replacing quarter panels on top of the $2500 I paid for the car, so I decided I can't afford this paint job (see WIFE above). If I did the paint job I'd have over $14,000 in it, and I haven't seen much of a market for high-priced old Zs. So I'll just keep it well-waxed instead, even though I REALLY do want the paint job!
 

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Re: 78Z Paint: MAACO full job versus Paint what is

One more thing about paint that's worth knowing when you go to a body shop, and that's the type of paint the car will be sprayed with. The cheapest paint is synthetic enamel. It goes on easily and smoothly, with a terrific gloss -- for about a month. Then it fades fast. The most common paint is acrylic enamel, which is what most new cars are painted with. Acrylic enamel used to be better than it is now with all the EPA regs, but it's still good paint. Harder to spray than others, and some colors now require a two stage (color and clear coat) application, but this should be no problem for a decent body man spraying over a well-prepared surface. Top end paints are no longer lacquers. Nowadays they are catalyzed enamels or full-on epoxy paints like Imron. Very tough, very shiny and very expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not One Door Ding in 17 Years!

> I will go with $1000 paint, much easier to
> handle
> than if I had a $5000 paint job when the
> jerk in the K-mart parking lot dings my z.

Next time you're strolling into a K-Mart, look way out at the far corner of the parking lot where there aren't any other cars within 30 yards, or over by the curb on the street. If you spot a gleaming silver blue 'ZX coupe parked all by its lonesome, that just may be ol' Slim's car. A couple of guys have offered to pay a lot more than three grand for it if I ever decide to sell, and that's one of the biggest reasons why.
 

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Re: Not One Door Ding in 17 Years!

Your post made me LOL, Slim. reminded me of a '57 Chevy I co-owned with a friend when we were like 17 or 18. With a new paint job, we were equally careful in parking lots. But HIS method was to park dead center on a white line, thus taking up two spaces. I'll never forget the time we came out of a movie to see the car totally boxed in, a VW on one side and an MG or something on the other, both in their respective spaces (parking spaces were a lot larger then), and only inches from our gleaming paint. My partner was pissed. I thought it was hilarious. We couldn't even open the doors to get in until the VW guy finally arrived.
 

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Re: So Many Choices, So Few Brain Cells

> I guess I will go with the expensive dude
> and just get painted what needs it.

I agree with you. Stick with a reputable shop. so you don't have to pay twice.

I learned the hard way. A supposed friend of a friend of mine got me a stunning deal on a complete body and paint job for 2000.00. I gave him 1500 to by parts and get started. He then bought new quarters etc and then dismantled the car into about 3000 pcs. Now here comes the WWWOOOAAAAHHHH NELLY!!!! part. The bank repo's the shop with my unfinished car in it and this guy leaves town overnight. Well when I saw that sherrif's notice on the door the next day I really flipped out. Soooo a couple of my friends broke into the shop and stole MY car back and all MY parts. We loaded 4 cars full of parts and had a flat bed pick up the car. (This is where it gets worse). It then sits in my parents garage for 2 months (its now Aug) until my father inlaw sets me up with his friend (a real pro) who says he will give me a deal. (if I only knew now) Soooo he does actually fix the car and paints it(very nice) but now it costs me 2800.00 and I supplied the paint AAANNNDDD all the new parts that I already had. So to make a long story not too long; the car was out of commission for 13months (two summers ruined) and a total cost for everything, towing, extra parts, running around etc. was approx 5300.00 So take my warning; all of you KNOW WHO YOU ARE DEALING WITH!!!
By the way that was 8 yrs ago and the car still looks good though I have had some touch ups due to my on going war with rust and an addition of a new wing.
ZR8ED.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Next Time Try This, John.

> Your post made me LOL, Slim. reminded me of
> a '57 Chevy I co-owned with a friend when we
> were like 17 or 18. With a new paint job, we
> were equally careful in parking lots. But
> HIS method was to park dead center on a
> white line, thus taking up two spaces. I'll
> never forget the time we came out of a movie
> to see the car totally boxed in, a VW on one
> side and an MG or something on the other,
> both in their respective spaces (parking
> spaces were a lot larger then), and only
> inches from our gleaming paint. My partner
> was pissed. I thought it was hilarious. We
> couldn't even open the doors to get in until
> the VW guy finally arrived.

Once a fellow in a bugeye Sprite boxed in my '68 AMX like that. Three of my fellow college linemen helped me out though. We picked up that little bitty Healey and turned it 90 degrees so there was about 2 inches of space between its license plates and the doors of the cars on either side. That way the guilty party got to do all the waiting.

I also understand that there are people evil, wicked mean and nasty enough to reach under cars that block them and flip open the radiator drain taps, but ol' Slim would never stoop to that. Shoot, it'd get the knees of my Levis dirty.
 
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