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I am having trouble taking my brake drums off of my 77 280z. The parking brake is released and have hammered the edges to no avail. I don't want to hit it too hard because it is aluminum. Does any one have experience with this or know the cause.?
Thanks.
Scott77
 

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> I am having trouble taking my brake drums
> off of my 77 280z. The parking brake is
> released and have hammered the edges to no
> avail. I don't want to hit it too hard
> because it is aluminum. Does any one have
> experience with this or know the cause.?
> Thanks.
> Scott77

There should be either a hole on the outboard side of the drum (or it may have a rubber plug in it) you need to line it up with the autoadjuster and then use a screwdriver to retract it, it will take several times of doing this as the adjuster is threaded. If you're doing it on the drivers side the tensioner is roughly in the 7 o clock position, on the passenger side, it's in the 5 o clock position. If you still can't get it off, obtain a new or good used drum to replace the stuck one, then you'll have to break the old one down the middle with a cold chisel and a hammer and get it off that way (obviously not the recommended method but if it's absolutely stuck it works, just be careful to only break the drum not the hub etc.)
 

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The problem is the oxididation from the aluminum drum to the steel hub.
You'll need a torch ,wd40 penetrant , small wire like toothbrush and hammer.
1) brush/clean all the white oxidation from around the bolts and inner hub circle.
2) soak/spray the bolts and hub circle with penetrant.
3)apply torch heat in a slow constant circular motion around and in between the bolts; apply heat for 20 seconds, stop and tap the drum gently between the bolts.
Apply heat for another 10-15 seconds; then tap the drum from behind around
the whole circumfrence. If you see it move just a little then no more heat usually.
If not repeat the process. Take your time and have patience; they'll budge!
Be carefull with the heat though. too much can warp or crack the alum drum.
After you get the hang on the first one ; the second will be lots easier.
good luck
ron
 

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> There should be either a hole on the
> outboard side of the drum (or it may have a
> rubber plug in it) you need to line it up
> with the autoadjuster and then use a
> screwdriver to retract it, it will take
> several times of doing this as the adjuster
> is threaded. If you're doing it on the
> drivers side the tensioner is roughly in the
> 7 o clock position, on the passenger side,
> it's in the 5 o clock position. If you still
> can't get it off, obtain a new or good used
> drum to replace the stuck one, then you'll
> have to break the old one down the middle
> with a cold chisel and a hammer and get it
> off that way (obviously not the recommended
> method but if it's absolutely stuck it
> works, just be careful to only break the
> drum not the hub etc.)

If the star adjuster is frozen or stripped and will not back off...I one time cut a notch out of the backing plate, at the adjustment slot, so it could be gripped with small pliers. I used a sigle handle hacksaw. This is eaiser than cracking the drum in my mind...then replace the backing plate. Good luck.
 

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> There should be either a hole on the
> outboard side of the drum (or it may have a
> rubber plug in it) you need to line it up
> with the autoadjuster and then use a
> screwdriver to retract it, it will take
> several times of doing this as the adjuster
> is threaded. If you're doing it on the
> drivers side the tensioner is roughly in the
> 7 o clock position, on the passenger side,
> it's in the 5 o clock position. If you still
> can't get it off, obtain a new or good used
> drum to replace the stuck one, then you'll
> have to break the old one down the middle
> with a cold chisel and a hammer and get it
> off that way (obviously not the recommended
> method but if it's absolutely stuck it
> works, just be careful to only break the
> drum not the hub etc.)

If the star adjuster is frozen or stripped and will not back off...I one time cut a notch out of the backing plate, at the adjustment slot, so it could be gripped with small pliers. I used a single handle hacksaw. This is eaiser than cracking the drum in my mind...then replace the backing plate. Good luck.
 

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107,695 Posts
> If the star adjuster is frozen or stripped
> and will not back off...I one time cut a
> notch out of the backing plate, at the
> adjustment slot, so it could be gripped with
> small pliers. I used a sigle handle hacksaw.
> This is eaiser than cracking the drum in my
> mind...then replace the backing plate. Good
> luck.
I had difficulty getting the drums off of my 77z too. My drums had 2 taped holes about 4 out from the center on opposite side of the hub. I made up an extension bar for my steering wheel puller and they came right off. Of course you need a steering wheel or pulley puller. Hope this helps.
 
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