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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

I'd like to introduce myself to the forums to start out with. I am seeking out a S30 project car to work on, and although I don't need help finding one, I could use the expertise of people smarter than me to help me find the right project. This is not my first Z, I owned a Z32TT as my first car. I am great at working on cars, and I have people, and hopefully you all as a resource to help me in my journey. I am specifically looking for a 240, or 280. Not as much interested in the redhead stepchild 260 or the zx.



Okay about the car: It's complete, it comes with the bumpers its missing. Has an aftermarket sun roof (I know), title is good, hes owned it for 17 years and it was last running 2 years ago. He wants to sell it to make room for his other projects. Tires all have pretty good tread, one needs replaced. Original L28, 158k miles, standard 4 speed. Body is solid and has surface rust, but no more than that. Motor has no problems other than just sitting. Asking price is the same as the last, $1200. Although it doesn't run its pretty close and it looks like a decent starting project. I'd like to go get it monday so I can start the project soon. Please, let me know if you guys think its worth it and what I should be cautious about. Or anything else you want to tell me. Thanks

What do I want out of the car? A rough restore, stock car, just a cruiser. Not in any time or money hurry, just gunna do it as I go. Thanks
 

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Except for the sunroof, I'm good with the car and price if your assessment is correct. But let's see: rusty battery tray (could be cancer behind or under it, missing fan shroud and vacuum bottle suggests 'tampering', holes in hatch where louvres used to be, splotchy rust spots on roof, back end sitting in water, water streaking and flat tires indicates it might have been outside those two years, greenery suggests a wet climate, repaint could hide a multitude of sins . . . I'd triple check for rust. Have you been under it?

And no reason to eliminate 260s. The early 74s are essentially the last generation 240s and the late ones are kind of first-gen 280s. They're good cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Except for the sunroof, I'm good with the car and price if your assessment is correct. But let's see: rusty battery tray (could be cancer behind or under it, missing fan shroud and vacuum bottle suggests 'tampering', holes in hatch where louvres used to be, splotchy rust spots on roof, back end sitting in water, water streaking and flat tires indicates it might have been outside those two years, greenery suggests a wet climate, repaint could hide a multitude of sins . . . I'd triple check for rust. Have you been under it?

And no reason to eliminate 260s. The early 74s are essentially the last generation 240s and the late ones are kind of first-gen 280s. They're good cars.
I understand the sunroof is a no no, but assuming they cut the headliner and a hole in the roof I'm not as eager to get it out. I'm trying to do as much "polish and reuse" than replace as I can. I got pictures from under the battery tray, and there is some rust (Ill post the pics below), Shock towers are in good shape. I'm hoping the paint isn't bubbled more than what I can see (I'll check it more when i head to check it out this week. The car has been sitting for two years, and only one of the tires is unusable according to the owner, so i think he has done some measures to keep it together. He said the underside and frame rails are all clean, and that he has a hoist we can roll it up on when I come to see it.
 

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Maybe I'm just imagining it, but looks like rust holes above framerail and firewall (lower right in photo). ???
Shock towers aren't usually a bad place. Look especially at rockers, lower fenders F and R, corners of hatch, floors under floormat in front. . .
Just be really careful about this. Much better to buy a little more pricey car if you can avoid the dreaded rust monster. In the long run, the mechanical stuff is easy. Proper rust repair is a bee-atch.
 

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Those rust spots on the roof will become holes, if not cut out and replaced with new or seasoned steel. So you'll be welding anyway. It's labor intensive. But 90% of the restored cars (any old car) out ther have had patch panels or entire panels welded in. It's not magic and I think the mytique associated with good welding artificially inflates the labor rate. It takes finess, time, prep and clean up. But it's not the black art most body shops would have you believe. Take it to a northern state where the roads are salted. Plenty of talent there that do this stuff ALL the time. Ask some local club member who does good welding. Then do the prep, priming and block sandining yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just got back from looking at it. The car looks a whole lot better in person than pics. Car has NO rust holes. Everything is surface rust. I looked the entire car over 2 times. The trunk is completely clean. It was left outside for sometime but it is in immaculate shape. He has new drum breaks (the entire thing) for the back, an entire clutch setup (without the clutch plate. Slave, cylinder etc), break master cylinder. Tons of extra parts. Car just needs cleaned up. Engine turned over perfect. Car rolls. Front brakes are brand new. He wouldn't back off the price any at 1200$. Needs a new tire. Dash is cracked in the middle but has a cover. Interior is messy and needs cleaned. He probably has half the money in new parts.
 

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It's worth $1200 as far as I'm concerned, but here in Cali everything is pretty **** expensive.
 
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